no spark enduro 15

[tfrugal]

hello, i have been reading this forum to try to figure out my lawn mower. bought it with the coil taken off, previous owner gave up. i put the coil on, gapped it, and checked /polished the magnets. Actually mowed with it twice!! then, my dumb *** left it out in the rain, with the hood up. no spark......
i have repolished, regapped, and tried this thing with the green wire not even close to the coil.... what have i missed?

ran an ohm test from plug wire terminal to laminations-- 3.9 on a 20k scale-- so that is 3900, which is is kosher, right?
do i just buy another coil?
if so, is an 15 hp the 34443x coil?

thanks in advance for your help!! you can see i have read the forum, you guys make me look smart, i jus cant quite figure this one out.

 

[Fish]

Got his p.m. and he supplied the model numbers/spec numbers to come up with the coil part number. Pretty much, these systems are easy to figure out.
With the kill wire to the coil disconnected, and the coil mounted, if the flywheel spins, you should generate a spark. Polishing flywheels and magnets is a waste of time, gap isn't that critical either.

The main thing that kills these coils/modules/whatever, is stray voltage supplied to them via the "kill" wire.

The kill wire circuit is what shuts the engines down, it grounds the ignition to the frame when you turn the key off, and if you have an engine that is destroying coils, then you will very likely find voltage supplied to the kill circuit, partial voltage will kill it slowly, off and on, 12 volts will kill it straight off.

So that is a caution to someone that confidently buys a new coil, and slaps it on. If that voltage is still present, it will kill a brand new coil with little or no remorse!!!!

 

[tfrugal]

thanks fish.
i hate to say it, but in trying to get this thing running, i DID put power to that ground tab. i thought i did it before mowing, but maybe i did it afterwards-- took the darn thing off and on plenty of times.
the moral of the story is to do your research BEFORE frying the components.

now i am looking at the prices for that new part#36344a. there is quite a difference. 25 to 55 bucks. anyone have opinion as to why? i am guessing the chinese stuff is half price? is there a difference, and how can i be sure what i am buying?

 

[Fish]

The ad should say OEM part, but there is so much out there and little oversight, other than the entity that the item is sold on, like e-bay/Amazon/etc...

So when you get the new coil, and want to mow, do not hook that little wire up if you need to mow, until you make sure that stray voltage isn't your problem.

If your keyswitch is excessively jiggly, the innards of the switch may be coming apart and be the problem, mouse chewed wires another possibility, plus molten wiring near the exhaust, chewed wires near the steering parts, etc.

Btw, a wrong keyswitch is always a good possibility, as they pretty much look alike but are all so different!

 

[tfrugal]

i think i am going to put on a dedicated kill switch. from that tab thru the switch to ground. that will defeat the interlocks-- but i am used to ancient machines without them...

thanks again fish.

 

[tfrugal]

ok, my coil came in the mail. installed it, checked for spark and YEP she has fire. put the plug back in and it still did not start.
it runs on ether or gas down the carb. i just checked the power to the solenoid as well as the ground, and can feel a click in said solenoid.
dumped the bowl out and let new gas (thought maybe water in fuel) in but still no joy.
now i guess its take the carb off.