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No fuel

#1

mikekrawczyk

mikekrawczyk

getting no fuel in cylinders (Kohler twin engine ) won't start with starter fluid or carb cleaner. The carburetor is clean. Any help would be appreciated. I want to thank all of you for the help!
Thank God for this site!


#2

I

ILENGINE

To be the best help we will need the model and spec off of the engine label as well as the model and serial number of the mower. Too many variable to take into cosideration. But from the little that we have to go on sounds like you may not have spark at the plugs. Starter fluid or flammable brake fluid, and yes there is non-flammable brake fluid, would still cause it to start and then die if there was a carb issue.


#3

B

Bertrrr

If it will not start with starting fluid , it's not a fuel problem , better look elsewhere


#4

mikekrawczyk

mikekrawczyk

ILENGINE said:
To be the best help we will need the model and spec off of the engine label as well as the model and serial number of the mower. Too many variable to take into cosideration. But from the little that we have to go on sounds like you may not have spark at the plugs. Starter fluid or flammable brake fluid, and yes there is non-flammable brake fluid, would still cause it to start and then die if there was a carb issue.
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#5

mikekrawczyk

mikekrawczyk

it has a spark.it is a KT735, mod of lawn mower 13BQA1CZ010


#6

I

ILENGINE

Possible that something was hit that stalled the engine resulting in a sheared flywheel key.


#7

mikekrawczyk

mikekrawczyk

it has spark.it is a K
ILENGINE said:
Possible that something was hit that stalled the engine resulting in a sheared flywheel key.
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I checked that it's ok. Thank you for the advice, I appreciate it a lot. I still cannot figure it out.


#8

mikekrawczyk

mikekrawczyk

ILENGINE said:
To be the best help we will need the model and spec off of the engine label as well as the model and serial number of the mower. Too many variable to take into cosideration. But from the little that we have to go on sounds like you may not have spark at the plugs. Starter fluid or flammable brake fluid, and yes there is non-flammable brake fluid, would still cause it to start and then die if there was a carb i
It will not start at all.It seems to nothing is getting to the pistons.
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#9

R

Red Good

Got any compression ?


#10

I

ILENGINE

Red Good said:
Got any compression ?
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My next thought was are the pistons moving and are the valves opening and closing.


#11

mikekrawczyk

mikekrawczyk

Red Good said:
Got any compression ?
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I was told you cannot check compression on that type of engine.


#12

mikekrawczyk

mikekrawczyk

ILENGINE said:
My next thought was are the pistons moving and are the valves opening and closing.
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The pistons are moving, not sure about the valves. How would I check that?


#13

I

ILENGINE

mikekrawczyk said:
The pistons are moving, not sure about the valves. How would I check that?
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Remove the valve covers and then turn the engine by hand and watch for the valves to open and close. Easier with the spark plugs removed.


#14

mikekrawczyk

mikekrawczyk

ILENGINE said:
Remove the valve covers and then turn the engine by hand and watch for the valves to open and close. Easier with the spark plugs removed.
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Sounds good. I read somewhere you can use air to check if the valve is open. Is that true? Thank you for the advice.


#15

I

ILENGINE

mikekrawczyk said:
Sounds good. I read somewhere you can use air to check if the valve is open. Is that true? Thank you for the advice.
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That is the basis of a leakdown test. But I will emphasis that be very careful about injecting air on top of the piston because a little bit of air pressure will result in a whole lot of push on the piston resulting in a violently turning flywheel. Example 20 psi of air pressure on top of a 4 inch piston is roughly 240 pounds of downforce


#16

mikekrawczyk

mikekrawczyk

ILENGINE said:
That is the basis of a leakdown test. But I will emphasis that be very careful about injecting air on top of the piston because a little bit of air pressure will result in a whole lot of push on the piston resulting in a violently turning flywheel. Example 20 psi of air pressure on top of a 4 inch piston is roughly 240 pounds of downforce
Click to expand...
Thank you.


#17

mikekrawczyk

mikekrawczyk

ILENGINE said:
Remove the valve covers and then turn the engine by hand and watch for the valves to open and close. Easier with the spark plugs removed.
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I did a leak test on it, air was leaking through the exhaust. Then I took off the valve cover and found this!

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#18

mikekrawczyk

mikekrawczyk

again thank you, guys! Here is a pic of my homemade leak tester, Maybe someone can make one for themselves.

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#19

S

slomo

Make sure you are at TDC or another place where the valves are purposely closed doing a leak down. Just saying....... Like valve adjustments checks and being on TDC. There are 2 TDC strokes in a 4 smoke engine.


#20

mikekrawczyk

mikekrawczyk

mikekrawczyk said:
Sounds good. I read somewhere you can use air to check if the valve is open. Is that true? Thank you for the advice.
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I have another problem. Just for the heck of it, I straightened the push rod with a hammer, put it back in, and turned it by hand to see if everything was good. before my eyes, The push rod bent again. it looked like the valve wouldn't go down, this is a twin engine?????.


#21

S

slomo

mikekrawczyk said:
I have another problem. Just for the heck of it, I straightened the push rod with a hammer, put it back in, and turned it by hand to see if everything was good. before my eyes, The push rod bent again. it looked like the valve wouldn't go down, this is a twin engine?????.
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Valve stuck in the head??

Cooling fins plugged up?


#22

S

slomo

You can take a small hammer and smack a valve open on working valves that are not stuck in the guide. Pull the rocker off first.


#23

mikekrawczyk

mikekrawczyk

slomo said:
Valve stuck in the head??

Cooling fins plugged up?
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Cooling fans ok, what would cause 2 valves to stick at the same time?


#24

mikekrawczyk

mikekrawczyk

slomo said:
You can take a small hammer and smack a valve open on working valves that are not stuck in the guide. Pull the rocker off first.
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I will give it a whack,and let you know what happens


#25

R

Red Good

Make sure the piston is down the cylinder before you hit it . No point doing more damage .


#26

mikekrawczyk

mikekrawczyk

Red Good said:
Make sure the piston is down the cylinder before you hit it . No point doing more damage .
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Thank you


#27

S

slomo

Red Good said:
Make sure the piston is down the cylinder before you hit it . No point doing more damage .
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Nice catch for OHV engines. Had L-head on the brain.


#28

S

slomo

You should be able to push the valve open with your fingers or say a broom stick. Those springs are not very stiff.


#29

A

Affordable in Indy

1) I agree that it's probably not a fuel/carb problem, but make sure the choke is open to make sure enough choke cleaner/starter fluid is getting through the carb.
2) How are you checking for spark? I wouldn't just trust a spark checker. From my experience, the problem is rarely the spark plug(s), but sometimes.....it is as simple as the spark plug.
3) Does it have compression on both sides? Are the the connecting rods broken? Or is a valve seat dislodged?
4) I've never seen a flywheel key sheered on a lawn tractor/zero turn.
5) I've seen very odd things caused by malfunctioning ignition switches.
6) Charge the battery or jump it. It might be just cranking too slow.


#30

A

Affordable in Indy

Could be an intake push rod as well. It may not be firing because no fuel is getting into the cylinder. You need to remove the rocker (valve) covers.


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