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Howdy all!!
From Kansas..have a little over 1 acre that I mow.
Property is 10 acres..all prairie hay except for where
the home is. Bought a dixon 361 ztr back in 92'..been
an outstanding mower. The briggs and stratton 12 hp
engine is showing signs of giving up the ghost..So
I've been researching engines..Briggs and Stratton engines
from 10 to 19 hp...still not sure how smart it is to put a much
larger engine on a frame that supported something lighter..
Intek shows up with the B & S ads..Read good and bad about
them..The main things I've found out through emails..chat
lines is that I will need a regulated alternator for the electric pto clutch.
I've never seen it listed as such..always had to ask the question,
Also, the attach bolt pattern is the same for most of the engines,
Some of the inquirys result in a reply with line drawings, which
really help to understand the envelope. Some don't come with
fuel pumps or mufflers...I have gravity flow on the 283707, so
I would have to somehow get a hot wire for a fuel pump.
Anyway, I would appreciate if there are any glaring errors,
or missed cosiderations that you give me a yell

thx..hal12

Flat head, L head, engines are no longer available unless you go used or find a new old stock one. I would recommend a 14.5 hp B&S OHV engine for that mower but a 10 hp would run it as the drive system of these take practicality no hp. You will have to rig a muffler. A used 12.5 flat head would be fine.

You do NOT have to have a regulated charging system for that mower only a charging system which puts out 6 amp or more. Does the charging system of your old engine have a regulator? All the components of your charging system from the old engine will fit the 14.5 OHV and most other B&S engines except the flywheel will be different. A replacement engine with the "small" magnet flywheel will still put out enough for your mower using the proper stater.

In case you question my advice, I am a former Dixon Certified Service Tech.

Walt Conner

Tinkerer200 said:

Flat head, L head, engines are no longer available unless you go used or find a new old stock one. I would recommend a 14.5 hp B&S OHV engine for that mower but a 10 hp would run it as the drive system of these take practicality no hp. You will have to rig a muffler. A used 12.5 flat head would be fine.

You do NOT have to have a regulated charging system for that mower only a charging system which puts out 6 amp or more. Does the charging system of your old engine have a regulator? All the components of your charging system from the old engine will fit the 14.5 OHV and most other B&S engines except the flywheel will be different. A replacement engine with the "small" magnet flywheel will still put out enough for your mower using the proper stater.

In case you question my advice, I am a former Dixon Certified Service Tech.

Walt Conner

Click to expand...

No problems with your advice Tinkerer200....I appreciate it...

I can't post links yet, but at jacks small engine site, it shows up as part number...845907
a regulator.

A customers service gent from a 'small engines' site said with that model of Dixon,
"Because of the electric pto clutch you HAVE to have a regulated alternator.".....

I've looked at 10 hp through 19..One recommendation is the 31R677..By intek..little leary about them
Do you have any feedback on their engines Tinker? It doesn't include a muffler, No Tank, Fuel Pump.
The old mower had a gravity flow carb..will it be much of a problem finding a hot wire to run these
engines with fuel pumps?
Appreciate your time...

" customers service gent from a 'small engines' site said with that model of Dixon,
"Because of the electric pto clutch you HAVE to have a regulated alternator."..."

That is absolutely wrong and you are free to use my name. Anyone here will tell you you only need what I said previously. I asked you before if your old engine had a regulator, doubt it.

"will it be much of a problem finding a hot wire to run these engines with fuel pumps?"

I have never seen a B&S engine come new with an electric fuel pump. The ones with a fuel pump are vacuum operated. While it would be OK, you do not need that big an engine. You will need a hot wire if the new engine is equipped with a carb solenoid which is likely but has nothing to do with it having a fuel pump. Just check the post on the ignition switch and find a post which is hot when the ignition switch is in the ON position and splice into that wire for the solenoid and you will need to provide a ground wire also.

Walt Conner

Tinkerer200 said:

" customers service gent from a 'small engines' site said with that model of Dixon,
"Because of the electric pto clutch you HAVE to have a regulated alternator."..."

That is absolutely wrong and you are free to use my name. Anyone here will tell you you only need what I said previously. I asked you before if your old engine had a regulator, doubt it.

"will it be much of a problem finding a hot wire to run these engines with fuel pumps?"

I have never seen a B&S engine come new with an electric fuel pump. The ones with a fuel pump are vacuum operated. While it would be OK, you do not need that big an engine. You will need a hot wire if the new engine is equipped with a carb solenoid which is likely but has nothing to do with it having a fuel pump. Just check the post on the ignition switch and find a post which is hot when the ignition switch is in the ON position and splice into that wire for the solenoid and you will need to provide a ground wire also.

Walt Conner

Click to expand...

Yes, the B & S has a regulator..part number 845907

Like Tinkerer said, you don't have to have a regulated charging system. Just need at least 6 amp charging. Most of the Intek engines are either the 3 amp DC/5 amp AC split charging system(which doesn't meet your needs), or the 9 amp regulated. If you need to wire a fuel solenoid, need to find a key switch terminal that is battery hot in both the start and run positions.

Of if your old engines doesn't have the solenoid, but the new one does, If they have the same brand of carb IE walbro, Nikki take the solenoid off the new engine and put in the carb bowl nut from the old engine.

ILENGINE said:

Like Tinkerer said, you don't have to have a regulated charging system. Just need at least 6 amp charging. Most of the Intek engines are either the 3 amp DC/5 amp AC split charging system(which doesn't meet your needs), or the 9 amp regulated. If you need to wire a fuel solenoid, need to find a key switch terminal that is battery hot in both the start and run positions.

Of if your old engines doesn't have the solenoid, but the new one does, If they have the same brand of carb IE walbro, Nikki take the solenoid off the new engine and put in the carb bowl nut from the old engine.

Click to expand...

I guess the question I should be asking is whether this engine or that electrical
system will control the pto clutch ok..When I hit the toggle on the control
panel, will the blades run ok..The one gent was pretty adamant about the reg..alt..

In addition, If the tractor has an electric PTO clutch, as I believe you have stated it does, it will require a regulated alternator

Click to expand...

The other sites, either through msgs or chat line impressed me that ^^ isn't really a consideration...that new modern
engines of the size I'm looking at, have the electrical system to handle a pto clutch..as a given

No sure what your talking about with the carb bowl nut...the old engines carb is gravity flow...straight fuel
line to filter to carb.. thank you .. Ilengine

9 amp may or may not be regulated. Note that the 9 amp Tri-Circuit is not regulated. Thousands of Dixons with electric PTOs were put out with unregulated systems.

Walt Conner

I've been told that new engines today..I don't know if this only applys to briggs & stratton,
in the 10 to 20 hp range..vertical shaft..have the mufflers (when one is included in the
package) on the left...facing forward..Which will make me have to do something with
the gas tank. I could take it off, but some new engines either don't have gas tanks or
they are of small capacity...Anyone have to deal with this on an engine replacement?
thx..Hal

Around here we have a NAPA dealer with a machine shop. Super outfit. They could rebuild that I\C engine to new for about half the price of a new engine. Short blocks might be mighty hard to find for that and you do really want that iron sleeved bore these days. Is your motor using oil, or just losing power? Might lap the valves and recover some lost horsepower.

tom3 said:

Around here we have a NAPA dealer with a machine shop. Super outfit. They could rebuild that I\C engine to new for about half the price of a new engine. Short blocks might be mighty hard to find for that and you do really want that iron sleeved bore these days. Is your motor using oil, or just losing power? Might lap the valves and recover some lost horsepower.

Click to expand...

It isn't using oil or losing power. I think it may be a vapor lock that causes it to seize..up..on rare occasions.
This last time I put too much oil in and when it tried to fire up it threw out oil through the vent
line. After draining the oil to the correct dip stick level, it fired right up but blew out oily smoke for
about a minute,then it ran ok. Because of the seizure and oil expulsion I thought the engine might
be going...I will know more when I mow next...