Need help with Wards (MTD) Deck G. Deck will not move forward for disengagement.

[wilburn cox]

I have a Montgomery Wards Signature Elite. Actually made by MTD. Wards # TMO 30000A. MTD # 131A670G088. Deck is 42 inch Deck G.
I installed both new drive belts on the tractor OEM (MTD). Installed the correct OEM (MTD) belt part # 754-0371A on the mower deck. Checked each deck hanger for holes wobbled or elongaded. All were perfect. Installed the deck as per the owner manual. Installed the big "killer" spring from the left hanger (bottom) hole on Stabilizer shaft assembly to the bracket on the transaxle on the left side.
I did the cutting deck engagement adjustment as instructed in the manual. The deck raises smoothly BUT does not move forward as the manual states. Manual says the deck should move up and forward allowing the belt to become loose. The belt is extremely tight when the lift lever is in the first cutting position. I have worked on this for hours. I did start the mower this morning and everything works but the belt is still very tight in each cutting height position causing the deck to shudder or shake.
Sorry the post is so long but wanted needed to explain what is going on. Any suggestions will be sincerely appreciated because I am stumped. Have a fantastic Day. Stay well and God Bless America.
Wilburn 'Red' Cox'

 

[StarTech]

Verify that he belt is 5/8 x 74" OD.

Also check movement with the deck belt off. Sometimes MTD has the wrong belt spec'd for some mowers.

 

[wilburn cox]

Verify that he belt is 5/8 x 74" OD.

Also check movement with the deck belt off. Sometimes MTD has the wrong belt spec'd for some mowers.

Thanks, StarTech. Yes the belt is 5/8 x 74".
Thanks for answering and have a great day.

 

[Rivets]

Did you go through the deck engagement adjustment as described on page 11 of the manual?

 

[wilburn cox]

Did you go through the deck engagement adjustment as described on page 11 of the manual?

 

[wilburn cox]

Good morning rivets. Yes I did the deck engagement adj. as instructed in manual. I did this several times to make sure it was correct just as the manual says. The process does not solve the problem. thanks for your suggestion. I notice your posts and suggestions many times on this forum and value your input.
Have a great day. stay well.
Wilburn Cox ('Red')

 

[Rivets]

If you shortened the engagement rod to its minimum length, does this loosen the belt tension when deck is engaged? If so, does it get even looser when disengaged? If you remove the rear tension spring, will the deck move forward to release belt tension? If these are both yes this is what I would try.
1. Double check that you have the correct spring, correct belt and it is routed properly on deck and stack pulley. Blades should turn easily with the deck disengaged.
2. Remove both engagement rod and tension spring. You should now be able to easily move the deck forward and backward with your hand.
3. Reattach the spring. You should now have decent tension on the belt, as the spring should be pulling the deck backwards. Not quite tight enough to run the deck, but tight enough that the blades will not turn easily.
4. Adjust the tensioner rod to its shortest possible length and install. When installed and the lever is in the disengaged position, the deck should move forward and up and all belt tension removed. When engaged there should be belt tension, but not enough to properly run the deck.

If everything is working properly at this point continue as follows. If not post back and let us know where problems occurred.

5. Now slowly apply more tension to the belt by making the tensioner rod longer. Check for proper engagement and disengagement after each change. I would go about an 1/8” at a time until I get the tension I like and the deck moves back and forth properly.
Hope this helps, wish I was there to see the problem, because I am making assumptions about guides, pulleys, guards, etc.

 

[wilburn cox]

Did you go through the deck engagement adjustment as described on page 11 of the manual?

If you shortened the engagement rod to its minimum length, does this loosen the belt tension when deck is engaged? If so, does it get even looser when disengaged? If you remove the rear tension spring, will the deck move forward to release belt tension? If these are both yes this is what I would try.
1. Double check that you have the correct spring, correct belt and it is routed properly on deck and stack pulley. Blades should turn easily with the deck disengaged.
2. Remove both engagement rod and tension spring. You should now be able to easily move the deck forward and backward with your hand.
3. Reattach the spring. You should now have decent tension on the belt, as the spring should be pulling the deck backwards. Not quite tight enough to run the deck, but tight enough that the blades will not turn easily.
4. Adjust the tensioner rod to its shortest possible length and install. When installed and the lever is in the disengaged position, the deck should move forward and up and all belt tension removed. When engaged there should be belt tension, but not enough to properly run the deck.

If everything is working properly at this point continue as follows. If not post back and let us know where problems occurred.

5. Now slowly apply more tension to the belt by making the tensioner rod longer. Check for proper engagement and disengagement after each change. I would go about an 1/8” at a time until I get the tension I like and the deck moves back and forth properly.
Hope this helps, wish I was there to see the problem, because I am making assumptions about guides, pulleys, guards, etc.

Rivets; I am not ignoring you or your suggestion. Have had some problems following 40 radiation treatments for that cancer so many men have. I should be ok, at least for now. When I work on my own small equipment I pull my owner manual and use zip lock bags for parts. Each part is labeled with masking tape, placed inside bag with a note of explanation inside. Yes, I have been teased about this.
The "Gut busting" spring is 7 & 5/8 " long by 5/8". Front hooks in bottom hole of stabilizer bar and rear hooks on a bracket on the left part of the axle bracket. A notch is provided for this. All belt guides, pulleys, guards and etc have been removed, cleaned, checked and replaced in proper place and order. I am 80 years old and will not attempt attaching that huge spring. A young stout friend attached it for me last week. I have a dear friend who has worked on mowers for years Who is going to help with this. he has a shop at home and when the two local repair shops get behind they call him. He takes the mowers home and repairs them. We will take mine to his shop as soon as he is caught up. We WILL go through your complete suggestions. I can operate levers and etc from above the mower for him as he observes all actions of the deck from shop floor. I think we can get it in order. I completely rebuilt the Briggs L head engine in 2014. Wife diagnosed with Alzheimer's that November. I filled the engine with oil, put it in a corner of my shop and covered it up. Wife died in May 2020. The engine runs perfect and now I have the deck issue.
Please know that i value you input and will let you know how it goes. Stay well and may God help our beloved country. Wilburn 'Red' Cox You may email me if you choose. wilburncox@embarqmail.com

 

[Rivets]

I wasn’t worried, as this time of year we’re all busy. Been there, done that with the cancer treatments, only I’m a just a few years young. Only able to do about 70% of what I use to. You be safe and take care, I’ll wait to hear what your buddy finds.