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Hi All. New to forum but glad to be here! Anyway, for reason's to long to get into, I have to get an OLD Sears Craftsman Wood Shredder / bagger (model # 2 ? 2 - 27006) that has apparently has a Tecumseh 6 HP L-Head engine. From help I received from others, and research on the internet, I am thinking the Tecumseh engine is model # V60-70257H??? If I am wrong I will defer to those here who know much more about these things. Anyway, I believe the carburetor is an old diaphragm type instead of a more recent bowl/float type. Again, please feel to correct or advise if I am off track. I didn't get any history at all on the shredder but since the fuel tank looks dry, I am assuming it hasn't run in a while. Therefore, I want to clean out the tank and carburetor of all the old gas and gunk (perhaps replace the condenser, old hoses, ect), as well as replace the oil and the spark plug. I can't find any manual for this unit so if anyone has one, or knows of one, that would be great! I could really use some help with getting this thing running. I can pull the starter rope and the shredder blade turns so I know the engine isn't seized. So I am hoping someone can offer some suggestions and sources to help me get this old motor working. I guess first off, is there a rebuild kit for this carburetor? Or is it possible to swap it out with a newer bowl/float type? Does anyone know the Oil type and amount this motor takes? The spark plug in it has no markings I can see. Does anyone know which one to get? Any suggestions on how to clean out the gas tank? Let me say in advance: Thanks for all assistance and advise!

Remove tank and wash it with clean fuel, if its gone bad you may need a tank sealer, change the oil, give it a good clean, before replacing anything see if you a good spark.

Spark J-8/J12J/L7J Champion B2-LM/B6HS NGK
Oil SAE10W30

Thanks EngineMan! I found a a number on the metal plate which was hard to read with my old eyes so once I got the sunlight just right, was able to see what i think is the engine model number. I am not sure about one of the numbers because it is not engraved as deeply as the other numbers on the metal piece. Anyway, it is either: "143-236082" or "143-286082", The number 143-236082 checks with this motor being a model V60-70257H engine. The other number (143-286082) seems to match up to a VM 080 engine, according to some Craftsman/Tecumseh cross reference I found on the internet. I am inclined to think the one I have is the V60 and not the VM 080 because the VM 080 picture appears to show a carburetor with a bowl and float design, where as the V60 is a diaphragm carburetor. I would like to know if there is a good way to identify the carburetor so I can be sure what rebuild kit to order. Do you happen to know a way I can confirm which model engine, and which model carburetor I have?

Tecumseh normally have a number stamped into the mounting flange of the carb. That number can be converted to a carb part number to look up parts and tell what engines is was used on.

This may help you

If you look at page 7 of the Parts Manual EngineMan provided(right side middle of page), you can see the diaphragm carb option (240A). [the bowl carb option is shown in the main diagram on page 1, item 240]

Items 238 and 239 shown on page 7 are what you need to rebuild it. Look at page 8 to get the part nos. for 238 and 239. Those are both readily available and inexpensive. The carb is not complicated to 'rebuild'. Chances are very good the diaphragm is 'hard as a rock' by now and merely replacing that would get you going. However, you might as well do the inlet assembly too since there are two non-metal parts there.

Thanks Telesis. Your eyes are much better than mine for sure! I can now see item #240 on page #1 of parts manual (provided by EngineMan- THANK you again!) and I know from looking at the engine I have, that is the carburetor. To be honest though, I couldn't tell what type of carburetor it is. I think I can see the little float bowl on the bottom of item # 240 so I know that is different than the diaphragm carburetor that I have on my motor, especially when I compare it to the carburetor pictured on page 7 of the parts manual. After looking at the diaphragm on the bottom of the carburetor, it is hard a s a rock, so I think you are right about changing it to get the old girl running. Just to be sure I have the right parts, is the following jacks parts what you are talking about: For the diapragm: https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/jacks/jse2672443?gclid=cii64ubl9nmcfyrmfgodo1kpgg , and for the inlet assembly, are you talking about: https://www.jackssmallengines.com/j...s/jse2672467?gclid=cllak9pm9nmcfvkpfgoddxgphw ?

Sorry for the links but I want to make sure I am getting the correct parts. Incidentally, aside from changing out the carburetor parts, is there a good way to clean the carburetor before rebuilding it?

Thank you all again for your help and assistance!

That looks to be the right one, clean out the carburetor with any good carb cleaner. if you search on google (tecumseh diaphragm carburetors) under images, you will find a lot of pics to help you out...! if you get stuck come back here.

As EngineMan said, those indeed are correct. Please keep this in mind, when replacing the diaphragm and gasket, pay attention what order the parts go back on. The gasket goes IN BETWEEN the diaphragm and the carb body. Then the diaphragm, then the cover. Also make sure you put the diaphragm on with the proper side facing the carb body. Just put it on the same way the old one came off.

Enjoy...

oldpops said:

I guess first off, is there a rebuild kit for this carburetor? Or is it possible to swap it out with a newer bowl/float type? View attachment 32089View attachment 32090View attachment 32091View attachment 32092View attachment 32093

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The diaphragm carb I cleaned out recently was gummed up behind the plug that sits above the diaphragm. Just soaking didn't work for mine. Yes, a bowl type fits and will work.

Thanks all, this is very helpful. I have a question for 'upupandaway' and anyone else who might know: I don't see a metal cover on the bottom of the carburetor, although it has a lot of crap all over it. Do I need to have the metal cover with the little primer (shown in many pictures of diaphragm carburetors on the internet)? I am not sure my unit has that, which may be a reason why it wouldn't run. Should i get a metal cover? And where can I get the little plastic primer fitting?

Metal cover?? There is a metal plate with 4 screws that cover the diaphragm. Looking at your pics under the dirt, yours looks complete.
Some apps of this carb did have a plastic "elbow" in the hole in the middle of the metal plate. This connected to a hose to a primer button. If yours doesn't have a primer button you could modify it to get a similar affect...
Go to Ace\True Value HW and get a single rivet. pull the nail out of the rivet. take off the plate from the carb. Slip the rivet into the hole from the inside\diapragm side so that it hangs down. Drill the hole bigger if needed. Reinstall the plate to the carb and press this rivet up for 1 second to prime it to start. Here is your jimmy rigged primer button..

My edger (H30) has the same carb as your pic and it has needed choke just to keep it going. Yesterday, opening it, everything is clean as a whistle so i took a very small drill bit .05" that i use when i make circuit boards, just to make sure the path was open and of all things, the drill broke. So im in your shoes now and am looking for a bowl\diphragm carb to replace the original. :frown:

Hi all and thanks to everyone for their help. Hopefully, everything will work well once I get the carburetor off, cleaned, install the new diaphragm rebuild kit, and then put it back on. "TO: 'upupandaway', please let me know if you find a bowl type carburetor that works to replace this diaphragm carb. I see some bowl/float type carburetors on the internet for cheap and it might be the best choice to replace it instead of dealing with it. Does anyone here know what bowl/float carburater will work for this engine? One that will swap out easily?

IMHO, I'd definitely give the diaphragm carb the benefit of the doubt! I have an old Craftsman leaf sweeper with a Tecumseh H35 on it with a diaphragm carb and it still runs like a top. The second reason is I don't believe there is a cheap alternative, at least that I can find. The parts list for your specific model unfortunately doesn't list the part number for item 240, the bowl carb, but a little digging uncovered that the part number is 631444. That has been superceded by 631800A. Unfortunately, I didn't find any cheap import alternatives for it. Much less expensive to put time into getting the one you have cleaned up and running and hopefully you don't run into the problem upupandaway had. [there are cheap alternatives for H60 engines(I know you have a V60) but they all have a choke arm and shaft. If you are really dead set on it, the choke could be removed and the shaft hole plugged with JB Weld. Put the effort into what you have first!]

Keep in mind too that in addition to the fuel side of the engine, the ignition side may need attention. I know you intend to put a new plug in it but the points and condenser may need adjusted or replaced. The condenser is an electrolytic capacitor and they dry out over time and change value and the points of course get burned. My recommendation is to try and start it and only pull the flywheel if you have to. If you do end up pulling it, I'd go ahead and replace the points and condenser since you will have put the work into getting at them in the first place and the good news is they aren't that expensive to replace! If you end up down this road, also consider replacing the flywheel key. It's a cheap part but can cause hard starting and poor running if it's sheared in the slightest. Even if the amount of 'shear' is small, that little change in timing can wreak havoc!

Hi Telesis and everyone else. Your point about trying to go with the diaphragm carburetor is well taken. Hopefully after cleaning and installing a rebuild kit the carburetor will work just fine. If not, well, I will cross that bridge when I get to it. As far as the ignition, I am sure the way my luck goes and the age of the engine, I will wind up having to replace it all. Not looking forward to having to do that since I believe I have to pull the cover and flywheel so hopefully the engine will start before having to do that. Hey, would you happen to have come across the correct part numbers for the points & condenser, and perhaps the spark plug wire? That would be helpful.

Here is the info. FYI, if you look at page 1 of the parts list, you see a box with a thick black arrow next to it. That box contains the points and condenser drawings and numbers. It's a bit hard to read but they are nos. 235 and 236. On page 4 of the list, you'll see their respective part nos. are 30547A(points), and 30548B(condenser).

Also, the flywheel key I mentioned is item 98 on page 1 and it's shown down by the crankshaft in the drawing. Its part no. is 30884.

I forgot to respond about the plug wire. If that needs replaced, you'll need to buy a new coil assembly which is part no. 30560A. The plug wire is molded/glued into the coil assembly and is not intended to be replaced by itself. The only reason to replace it would be if it's dried and it is cracked. If not, then I'd leave it be.

It's possible your coil assembly has a metal tab sticking out the bottom with the plug wire soldered to it, and if so just the wire can be replaced. The part no. is 30554 and you'll likely have to source it from ebay.

Just so you know how I found the number, the magneto(and flywheel) is no. 241 on page 1 and in the part list is a 610689A. When you look that number up you'll see a breakdown of the individual parts that make it up. 30560A is the coil(including the plug wire). The wire itself(with the terminal on one end) is 30554.

Thanks Telesis, and also thanks to everyone else. I haven't pulled the flywheel off but the plug wire looks pretty dried up. Since I have to pull the flywheel anyway to replace the points and condenser, I figure I might as well replace the coil as well since it is just as old as the other parts. I think it would also be smart to change the filter as well and I believe that is Tecumseh part # 28424 on the list. On the internet, that part also came over as John Deere part # M41806. They can be had for cheap on the web but when you add shipping charges I start to wonder if there is just a good way to clean the existing element? Can i just use a piece of foam from another mower instead of the material used in part #28424? Any thoughts?

Hi All! Since my Tecumseh engine is so old, I think it best to go ahead and replace the ignition coil & plug wire. I also plan to replace the filter breather element but I am wondering if there is something I can reuse instead of getting the straw type that the engine came with, which I believe doesn't have much of a use-life. In searching the internet for the part number, I came across some foam looking breather elements and i am wondering if I could just cut one of those down to size. Anyone have any good suggestions for a generic filter/breather element that I can use?

oldpops said:

Hi All! Since my Tecumseh engine is so old, I think it best to go ahead and replace the ignition coil & plug wire. I also plan to replace the filter breather element but I am wondering if there is something I can reuse instead of getting the straw type that the engine came with, which I believe doesn't have much of a use-life. In searching the internet for the part number, I came across some foam looking breather elements and i am wondering if I could just cut one of those down to size. Anyone have any good suggestions for a generic filter/breather element that I can use?

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Stranger things have happened to old engines.

CPURVIS- my substitute carb finally arrived:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0Fx1gfZjd3US3VJc0gwdjFZWkk/view?usp=sharing

here it is without the cover:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0Fx1gfZjd3UMkM4OFpqalkzUnM/view?usp=sharing

This is the carb i got http://www.ebay.com/itm/262784117502?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

If u get this one, I dont know if it is just mine, but it originally would not start. I turned the screw rich 3 revs with no luck. It behaved as if there was a vacuum in the bowl. I drilled a hole in the primer - letting air into the bowl and screw turned back to default and that did the trick.