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need help collar for blade not coming off.

#1

lawnboywillneverdie

lawnboywillneverdie

i cant tell but i beleive that this may have been welded to the shaft as the blade did not fit the collar nor did the engine match the gold series deck but it was the correct type. i have done all i feel i can without damaging the shaft. what should i try? pics will be posted soon but i need a response ASAP i am going to have to return the motor to a junkyard within a week if i cannot get this off and mount it on the correct deck. it is an F series engine self propel.:ashamed::mur::mur::mur:
P.S. this will be outside unprotected in a mostly lawnboy scrap yard and i wanted to save it from the winter but alas i haven't been able to get this damn collar off.

if you want to know where in Ohio I get my lawnboy's from just ask in the thread below:anyone:


#2

unclelee

unclelee

Ya try a pulley puller? If you don't own one, most auto part they are not too expensive......if it was welded you should be able to see the weld....if this is the case....not good..
If you thread the nut on the shaft you can strike the nut with a hammer ( squarley ) and possibley shock it loose....be carfull not to mushroom the nut or end of the shaft if you use this method.


#3

P

Phototone

If its a Lawnboy, and has a Lawnboy engine (even if the engine has been swapped to another deck) then the blade collar is not welded to the drive-shaft. But, that being said, some have been on so long that they "seem" to be welded. You are probably going to have to destroy the collar (new ones are available), to get it off. You need to use a puller. You first pull on the flange, this will distort the flange and as it is tack welded to the backing ring that mates with the drive shaft, eventually it will separate off, and you are left with a little ring still stuck to the drive-shaft. You can then get in there with your puller and pull off the ring. IT WILL COME OFF, but you may have to use mighty force on the puller.

You can get inexpensive "pullers" at tool places like Harbor Freight. You don't need a professional quality "Craftsman" tool for light lawnmower use.


#4

beg

beg

I got one to come off using the puller from my lawnboy tool kit It came off but was bent all to ya know what.Put the collar in a vise and bent it back with a hammer as best I could.I know its not the way to do it but it worked this one time and it was on my own mower.


#5

lawnboywillneverdie

lawnboywillneverdie

I appreciate all your help guys but problem is no matter how much I try to heat it up and then spray with the PB Blaster and it will not move, for anything I don't want to bend the shaft so I just gave up unless there's something that will definitively work.I mean I even went to hit with a pretty heavy hammer I mean it did not move whatsoever and I could have swore I was going to bendn the shaft hittng it as hard as I was. hey if you need a picture or something I can show you it just so you can understand what I'm talking about other than that I don't know what to do right now

I know this is a bit off topic but is it possible to take a pulley off of the self propel engine and I'm trying to get the pulley off of and put it on a non self propel push mower engine of the same series on it but it sounded different Deck cuz I have a pretty nice 3 speed on the deck I don't have the pulley for and hate to see it go unused. I will post a pic and a video of the motor I'm talking about trying to put it on so you can get a reference


#6

lawnboywillneverdie

lawnboywillneverdie

lawnboywillneverdie said:
I appreciate all your help guys but problem is no matter how much I try to heat it up and then spray with the PB Blaster and it will not move, for anything I don't want to bend the shaft so I just gave up unless there's something that will definitively work.I mean I even went to hit with a pretty heavy hammer I mean it did not move whatsoever and I could have swore I was going to bendn the shaft hittng it as hard as I was. hey if you need a picture or something I can show you it just so you can understand what I'm talking about other than that I don't know what to do right now

I know this is a bit off topic but is it possible to take a pulley off of the self propel engine and I'm trying to get the pulley off of and put it on a non self propel push mower engine of the same series on it but it sounded different Deck cuz I have a pretty nice 3 speed on the deck I don't have the pulley for and hate to see it go unused. I will post a pic and a video of the motor I'm talking about trying to put it on so you can get a reference[/QUO

Heres the pics of the engine that I'm trying to get the collar off of.
Click to expand...

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#7

lawnboywillneverdie

lawnboywillneverdie

PHP:
Phototone said:
If its a Lawnboy, and has a Lawnboy engine (even if the engine has been swapped to another deck) then the blade collar is not welded to the drive-shaft. But, that being said, some have been on so long that they "seem" to be welded. You are probably going to have to destroy the collar (new ones are available), to get it off. You need to use a puller. You first pull on the flange, this will distort the flange and as it is tack welded to the backing ring that mates with the drive shaft, eventually it will separate off, and you are left with a little ring still stuck to the drive-shaft. You can then get in there with your puller and pull off the ring. IT WILL COME OFF, but you may have to use mighty force on the puller.

You can get inexpensive "pullers" at tool places like Harbor Freight. You don't need a professional quality "Craftsman" tool for light lawnmower use.
Click to expand...

there is something I did not mention what the guy who owned it before me did was he made a plate to modify the engine of said it because it wasn't the right mounting plate for the deck so assuming that that's what he did I can expect anything else to be modified on it when it comes to the mounting or being put together so anything could happen


#8

unclelee

unclelee

If you are heating it, then you have a torch....dont spray with pb blaster.
The idea of heating the collar is to get the metal to expand....when it cools it contracts making it tighter than before. If you are going to heat it...do it evenly and get it really hot...you should hear it pop when it is hot enough to break loose...work fast to remove it before it starts to cool and contract back onto the shaft.
Note....it may be nearly white hot before you hear it pop.
good luck.


#9

lawnboywillneverdie

lawnboywillneverdie

unclelee said:
If you are heating it, then you have a torch....dont spray with pb blaster.
The idea of heating the collar is to get the metal to expand....when it cools it contracts making it tighter than before. If you are going to heat it...do it evenly and get it really hot...you should hear it pop when it is hot enough to break loose...work fast to remove it before it starts to cool and contract back onto the shaft.
Note....it may be nearly white hot before you hear it pop.
good luck.
Click to expand...

if it's going to need to be that hot then im gonna be there forever and dont see it as doable for me as you saw in the pics i got it so hot the metal was glowing red and left a blue patina to it but no pop. anything you need to see in a pic of the shaft? i need a easy way to do this without risking the usability of the motor. is there anything that is problem with the collar mating the shaft? its not a big torch just a handheld propane one.

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#10

unclelee

unclelee

If you are comfortable with your ability with a torch...cut the collar on both sides untill you are close to the shaft. Don't gouge the shaft.
You can then use a chisle to split the collar.
Lee


#11

L

LB8210

You need the heat of map gas or better Oxy.- Acetylene torch and a puller. Propane is not hot enough. Heat the whole collar with out hitting the shaft, until the whole collar is red.


#12

lawnboywillneverdie

lawnboywillneverdie

i do have a MAP torch but what i meant was there are 2 little tanks we have one is yellow (MAP) and one is blue (propane) and i was using the yellow at the time so yes i do apparently have one.


#13

lawnboywillneverdie

lawnboywillneverdie

LB8210 said:
You need the heat of map gas or better Oxy.- Acetylene torch and a puller. Propane is not hot enough. Heat the whole collar with out hitting the shaft, until the whole collar is red.
Click to expand...

if it is conveinient do a step by step of it please as i want to keep the engine. i dont have a puller but i can improvise:wink:


#14

lawnboywillneverdie

lawnboywillneverdie

LB8210 said:
You need the heat of map gas or better Oxy.- Acetylene torch and a puller. Propane is not hot enough. Heat the whole collar with out hitting the shaft, until the whole collar is red.
Click to expand...

i got it off after about 10 seconds of heat and repeated hits with a hammer but was surprisingly easy even though i have applied way more force than that. but now i noticed that the seal on the lower crankcase is descended. not in place but i pushed it back up in. isn't there supposed toi be a clip or something to keep it in the crankcase like the duraforce does? anything will help and i will post a video of my likely failing attempt to start it. Hope she fires better than today as alli got was a starting fluid backfire:tongue: ik its bad for the engine but i was seeing if it could fire.


#15

L

LB8210

lawnboywillneverdie said:
i got it off after about 10 seconds of heat and repeated hits with a hammer but was surprisingly easy even though i have applied way more force than that. but now i noticed that the seal on the lower crankcase is descended. not in place but i pushed it back up in. isn't there supposed toi be a clip or something to keep it in the crankcase like the duraforce does? anything will help and i will post a video of my likely failing attempt to start it. Hope she fires better than today as alli got was a starting fluid backfire:tongue: ik its bad for the engine but i was seeing if it could fire.
Click to expand...

Good Job. What is the model number we are working on? Was the seal a rubber cased? Some housings are a larger bore diameter. I have found some rubber cased seals that fell down and replaced them with a steel shelled seal with out the rubber covering. These fit tighter in the housing and stay put. I would not use starting fluid in a two cycle motor, it washes oil from the cylinder walls so you would have no lubrication. Suggest using fuel mix for starting from a squirt can.


#16

lawnboywillneverdie

lawnboywillneverdie

LB8210 said:
Good Job. What is the model number we are working on? Was the seal a rubber cased? Some housings are a larger bore diameter. I have found some rubber cased seals that fell down and replaced them with a steel shelled seal with out the rubber covering. These fit tighter in the housing and stay put. I would not use starting fluid in a two cycle motor, it washes oil from the cylinder walls so you would have no lubrication. Suggest using fuel mix for starting from a squirt can.
Click to expand...

Like I said ik it is bad for the enigne how is the rubber ring supposed to stay in? Does it just slide in thats it? Mine is rubber. The engine is an f series but I cannot get the model as I canot locate it on the deck nor is 4he decal on the shroud legible. does anyone want a oops forgot that last night our first snowfall came and we got idk how much as of now bc im in school. Im not feeling confident it will fire but if you guys wqnt i will make a video of trying to start it in our plowed driveway.

Just ask for a startup video and I will post one on youtube and link it to you guys. I hate snow now. Wish me luck.


#17

L

LB8210

If the seal sides into place with just pressure from your fingers , then I would replace it. Clean the bore the seal fits in so that there is no oil film. It must be dry and clean. If a rubber cased seal fits loose, then use a steel shelled seal instead. It should fit snug. Oil or grease the seal lip before installing so it won,t run dry when first starting .


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