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I recently was given a Murray 425613x8A. It is a nice looking mower but someone apparently replaced the starter switch and rather than rewiring it correctly they just cut and spliced wires until it ran. Well I was going to rewire it and when I looked at the wire diagram the switch is different than what is says it should be. The diagram, Murray 425613x8A Parts List and Diagram - (2002) : eReplacementParts.com, the switch has tabs 1,2,2,1 with one off to the side. The one that is installed is a 1,2,3 with one off to the side. The wire colors on the harness don't match the colors that should go to the correct tabs. I looked up other wiring diagrams and found this one, Ignition Switch Replaces Murray 92556 | Lawn Mower Parts | MFG Supply. my only question is that mine has an extra yellow and and extra black wire. Where do they go? If anyone could provide a better diagram it would be greatly appreciated. I would much rather fix what I have than have to drop $100 to get a new switch and matching harness. Thanks.

Going by the diagram there are two yellow wires, one comes from the PTO switch, and the other goes to the armature, and the black should go to ground.
factory fitted key switch will have 7 pins on the switch. and they are..

B (7) Battery
L (4) Armature
M (2) After-fire Solenoid/Red wire/DC out
S (5) Brake/Clutch (small wire to solenoid)
Y (3) Lights out
A (1) Lights in from stator
G (6) Ground

Check them all, if any are not right, make a note of what you have, wiring problems are not always done in a few minutes, start with a clear head and if you can take photos before you start taking anything apart all the better, that way you have a reference so that you can return to.

Thank you for the listing of the wires. I also have a couple other questions:
1) There is a gray wire coming out of the L spot. Any idea where it goes?
2) What does the Afterfire Solenoid look like? I can follow the yellow to the armature but there is only the one wire coming from it. There isn't is the connector that goes to it.
3) When you look at the diagram the NC box(for lack of proper name) that is next to the battery I cannot find. They had cut a couple of wires to the first NC box. Are the little boxes necessary? What purpose do the serve?
4) Also coming off of the engine there is what looks like a ground wire that is cut and goes to nothing anyone know what it is supposed to be hooked to.

I'm sorry for so many questions. This lawnmower was giving to me and is a decent lawnmower it is just obvious that the people who had it before just went through cutting and splicing stuff and as a result the mower started once and ran but now it wont start and it acts as if its not recharging the battery while you are running it.

doc102003 said:

Thank you for the listing of the wires. I also have a couple other questions:
1) There is a gray wire coming out of the L spot. Any idea where it goes?
2) What does the Afterfire Solenoid look like? I can follow the yellow to the armature but there is only the one wire coming from it. There isn't is the connector that goes to it.
3) When you look at the diagram the NC box(for lack of proper name) that is next to the battery I cannot find. They had cut a couple of wires to the first NC box. Are the little boxes necessary? What purpose do the serve?
4) Also coming off of the engine there is what looks like a ground wire that is cut and goes to nothing anyone know what it is supposed to be hooked to.

I'm sorry for so many questions. This lawnmower was giving to me and is a decent lawnmower it is just obvious that the people who had it before just went through cutting and splicing stuff and as a result the mower started once and ran but now it wont start and it acts as if its not recharging the battery while you are running it.

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"1) There is a gray wire coming out of the L spot. Any idea where it goes? "

that maybe the other (yellow wire) which should go to the PTO switch "what you are calling NC"

"2) What does the Afterfire Solenoid look like? I can follow the yellow to the armature but there is only the one wire coming from it. There isn't is the connector that goes to it."

The after-fire solenoid, if there is one fitted to the engine will be fitter to the carb.

"3) When you look at the diagram the NC box(for lack of proper name) that is next to the battery I cannot find. They had cut a couple of wires to the first NC box. Are the little boxes necessary? What purpose do the serve?"

The NC box near the battery is the PTO switch, and there should be one.

Let me point out that you need to understand a wiring diagram. let someone who knows and understands what they are doing, do the job for you.

"1) There is a gray wire coming out of the L spot. Any idea where it goes? "

that maybe the other (yellow wire) which should go to the PTO switch "what you are calling NC"

The only issue I have with that is then where does the second yellow wire coming out of m go. Its almost like who ever changed out the harness used the wrong one. I understand the wiring diagram it is just the fact that there appears to be too many wires. That part is a little confusing. And the fact that they had wires cut and then had it wired to a toggle switch that you had to turn on before you could even attempt to turn the key.

If you don't have a after-fire solenoid fitted then the wire is just left unused.

Yeah I can't find an after-fire solenoid. So any idea where the gray wire goes?

If you are sure its (gray) check to see if the wire is connected to the armature from post 4 (L) on the key switch, also check the color of the wire(s) from the safety switches, it maybe the one going to the PTO switch mentioned before, but the wiring diagram is showing two yellows wires from post 4 (L)

Yes it is gray.It is a light gray color. And the cut it so I don't know where it goes to. Right now it is just a wire hanging off of the switch. It is coming out with a red out of L. I do have the two yellow but they are coming out of a different spot.

Only two wires that are red shown on diagram are 1 coming from red DC output from stator, and 2 the one going to the 15Amp fuse.

I see what you are saying about the image from the wiring diagram. The terminal that they have installed is different. From what I could find looking around online this is how mine is laid out.
A
G Y S
M L B
I am not 100% sure that it is the correct wiring diagram.

Sorry but I don't understand what you are trying to point out here...
A
G Y S
M L B....?

Just trying to show how it looks like mine are laid out on the switch. Mine looks like this Ignition Switch Replaces Murray 92556 | Lawn Mower Parts | MFG Supply

The back of the switch may look different but the meaning of the post are the same. It also says "For engines equipped with fuel shut-off solenoid built since 1994." and you say there is not one fitted.

Alright so I rewired it with the L having the two yellow like you said and every time you turn the key it blows the fuse. I went through and checked every wired and even redid any connections that looked like they might be causing an issue and it still blew the breaker. When I switched the wired to have L be the red wire from the stator and M be the 2 yellow wires it did nothing. I thought maybe the battery was dead to I tried to jump it and nothing. It wont even attempt to start. I started looking more and the the two NC/No boxes are they suppose to be connected to anything? All the wires are connected to them but I almost looks like there is either suppose to be a sensor that plugs into the top of them or some sort of fuse. Almost like the box looking fuses that go in your vehicle.

doc102003 said:

Alright so I rewired it with the L having the two yellow like you said and every time you turn the key it blows the fuse. I went through and checked every wired and even redid any connections that looked like they might be causing an issue and it still blew the breaker. When I switched the wired to have L be the red wire from the stator and M be the 2 yellow wires it did nothing. I thought maybe the battery was dead to I tried to jump it and nothing. It wont even attempt to start. I started looking more and the the two NC/No boxes are they suppose to be connected to anything? All the wires are connected to them but I almost looks like there is either suppose to be a sensor that plugs into the top of them or some sort of fuse. Almost like the box looking fuses that go in your vehicle.

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I would stop testing in the way you doing because you are going to do damage, lets get something clear, only you know what it is in front of you, we here do not, we can only work out from what you are telling us.
You should be using a multimeter and not the battery, until you are sure that all the wiring is correct, that way you will not be blowing fuse's the way you are, use the meter for what it is for, it will tell you by connecting it up to one end of a wire, say on the key switch, and finding out the other end, if someone been there and made a right pigs ear out of things then start again and make your own wiring diagram, you should know by now that the (B) on the key switch is for the battery + and that (g) is the ground, so you have now only five out of the seven you say you have on the key switch, remember if you are doing continuity checks with a meter, make sure you have one of the battery leads off.
The NC boxes there are three shown on the diagram, clutch/brake, PTO and seat switch and they all kill the coil, or should do..!

Does anything actually go into the nc boxes? I am asking because the wires go into the back and when you flip it over it has open slots where it looks like something should go into it. They look a lot like how the harness connects to the back of the ignition switch.

The wires coming into the back of the nc boxes are connected to female terminal connector. There is nothing on the other side.

Thank you for the help. I think I have it figured out now. I completely misunderstood that it was the PTO switch that went in the relay. I said something to my wife about it looked like something was missing and she walked up and she said what about those switches out to the side. I was like you got to be kidding me. I will have to order them and if it doesn't work I will let you know. Thanks again.

alright so the PTO switch came in today. I was going to plug it into the relay when I noticed that on the switch the two NCs are one above the other rather than being side by side. Does it make a difference which wire is above the other as far as the yellows and the oranges?

Going by the wiring diagram, the switches are the same.

Thank you.

I may end up losing it. I was able to find the original PTO switch. They had taken it out and just put it inside under the hood. I have since checked and everything is wired back according to the wiring diagram. When I have the two yellow in the L position it blows the fuse every time. When I switch the yellow wires to the M position like the other wiring diagram says it does nothing. I currently have the battery charging in hopes that the battery is just that dead since they have cut any wires that would have been recharging the battery. If you can think of anything else that it may be please let me know.

This is the right wiring diagram for your Murray, is it the same has the one you are looking at..? you should not be blowing fuses on the yellow wires.

yeah that is the exact same diagram I have. It looks like they took out the after fire solenoid.

It appears that they had cut both yellow wires and had the wire coming from the armature wired to a toggle switch. It almost appears that who ever tried to wire it was having an issue with the fuse tripping so they cut out all the safety switches just so it would run.

doc102003 said:

It appears that they had cut both yellow wires and had the wire coming from the armature wired to a toggle switch. It almost appears that who ever tried to wire it was having an issue with the fuse tripping so they cut out all the safety switches just so it would run.

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The safety switches have nothing to do with the fuse or fuse's, power to the key switch is only to send power to the solenoid, the safety switches are there to kill the coil(s) ie if you get off the seat...! you should have been able to find all ends of cable by now, are you using a meter, much better then using the battery you will not damage anything with a meter but you may if you go on testing with the battery.

Yes, I have used my meter to check it and I believe the issue is the switch. I think the switch that was installed may have been the wrong one so they just moved the wires to get it to start. I will post later what terminals do what when the key is in certain positions.