Good morning gents, much to my wife's dismay, I found a Murray push mower on the side of the road and need some help getting it running. It has compression and spark so I am thinking there is a fuel delivery problem but I am having a hard time finding a manual/parts for this model.
Problems:
It has no air filter/filter housing cover.
The primer bulb seems shot.
Need to clean the carb and fuel tank.
Spark plug is pretty rusted, it is a Champion RC12YC, I had a used XC12YC (I think they are interchangeable?) from my Toro that I cleaned up and I plan to use. I just need to know what I should gap it to.
Overall, I would like to repair it because it seems pretty solid and I would like to keep it for a back up mower.
after cleaning or replacing plug, did you chjeck oil before pulling it. Then try 2 cycle gas and or ether to determine of combustion is there. If runs for few seconds, then is fuel related. remove ALL ALL old fuel and try clean fresh fuel. does gas flow down line to carb? then is carb issue and know engine runs. fix carb clean blow passages. should maybe start and maybe run rought.
#8
shurguywutt
I never got this thing running. Weird thing is I can't get it to turn over even when I spray starter fluid in the carb. It sounded like it gave a really weak sputter a couple time after me pull staring it what seemed like 50 times.
I didnt have the fuel tank hooked up to it so it couldn't be flooded. I have tested it with a spark tester and it has spark. Maybe the spark plug connector is bad? It didn't look too good and a small piece broke off of the connector but I still got it hooked up by tightening the termination with pliers and fixing it to the plug.
Maybe the engine is toast?
Just at a loss because if there is spark it should at least turn over with starter fluid shouldn't it?
#9
StarTech
Not if the flywheel key is sheared or partially sheared.
If the flywheel key is damaged wouldn't it be reasonable to suspect there would be some kind of blade damage (hitting an object at high speed to shear the flywheel key)? The blade on this thing looks pretty worn and old but nothing that looks like a high speed impact. I will take a look anyway because the logic behind the timing not being right makes sense.
I hope you report back after checking the flywheel key. I think that is the most likely culprit. But, if it isn’t, then three thoughts. First, is the kill switch making contact even when the flywheel brake is not on? Second, is the plug you are substituting an exact match for the original? Does the electrode go into the cylinder as deeply as the original? Third, maybe the spark isn’t strong enough. Spark testers don’t measure current.
