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Murray 30" Won't Turn Over After Hitting a Stump
#1
E
ehs1331
E
ehs1331
Hello,
I have been looking all over for a answer before posting. But no luck. My dad has a Murray 30" Rear Engine around a year old. He ran over a stump and the engine died. Now the engine will not crank, click or anything. I can understand sheering a key, but it should still crank over. I jumped the starter solenoid and it cranks over. I had the spark plug out and appears to be no fire while Im jumping it, But it was very bright out today. Its like one of the safety switches are activated, but don't know why kitting something would cause that. Also The fuse is ok. Any help would be great. Thanks
I have been looking all over for a answer before posting. But no luck. My dad has a Murray 30" Rear Engine around a year old. He ran over a stump and the engine died. Now the engine will not crank, click or anything. I can understand sheering a key, but it should still crank over. I jumped the starter solenoid and it cranks over. I had the spark plug out and appears to be no fire while Im jumping it, But it was very bright out today. Its like one of the safety switches are activated, but don't know why kitting something would cause that. Also The fuse is ok. Any help would be great. Thanks
#2
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
Blades disengaged? clutch pedal down? mower in neutral?
#3
E
ehs1331
E
ehs1331
yes they are. I have wiggled shifter while turning the key thinking it may not be detecting neutral very good, but still nothing. i haven't tried bypassing any safety switches yet. its just weird it happened when it hit the stump.
#4
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Check the battery connections, may have come loose when you hit the stump. Also, the connection where the negative cable attaches to the chassis.
#5
E
ehs1331
E
ehs1331
already checked all of it. i see no damage anywhere. its like a breaker/reset was kicked but I don't think mowers have them.
#6
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Then I suggest your proceed through this troubleshooting procedure and report back.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position q(you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position q(you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
#7
S
slomo
S
slomo
HOW, did you check them? I'm reading it was a visual check. Grounds need to be tested at minimum for continuity and better yet under load.already checked all of it. i see no damage anywhere. its like a breaker/reset was kicked but I don't think mowers have them.
#8
E
ehs1331
I checked voltage and continuity. while pushing in the pedal and turning the key. i get no signal voltage to the starter relay, i got main voltage to relay but since no signal is received it isn't passing through. But while with key in the on position I suppled voltage to the starter. it cranks fine but there is no fire to the spark plugs while the engine is turning over. This weekend Im going to go thru Rivets Check list. but I really think there is some kind of safety feature keeping it from getting fire to spark plug and the starter. I am a Master Diesel Mechanic, with every tool known to man, but havent work on small engines that much. So I think you all for all your help
E
ehs1331
HOW, did you check them? I'm reading it was a visual check. Grounds need to be tested at minimum for continuity and better yet under load.
I checked voltage and continuity. while pushing in the pedal and turning the key. i get no signal voltage to the starter relay, i got main voltage to relay but since no signal is received it isn't passing through. But while with key in the on position I suppled voltage to the starter. it cranks fine but there is no fire to the spark plugs while the engine is turning over. This weekend Im going to go thru Rivets Check list. but I really think there is some kind of safety feature keeping it from getting fire to spark plug and the starter. I am a Master Diesel Mechanic, with every tool known to man, but havent work on small engines that much. So I think you all for all your help
#9
E
ehs1331
This weekend Im going to go thru your Check list. I have about every tool possible. Good bit of mechanical and electrical experience. I will report back. Thanks you
E
ehs1331
Then I suggest your proceed through this troubleshooting procedure and report back.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position q(you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
This weekend Im going to go thru your Check list. I have about every tool possible. Good bit of mechanical and electrical experience. I will report back. Thanks you
#10
E
ehs1331
I just got it figured out. I took all the plastics, seat and brackets off. I started going through all the saftey switches. While I was doing that I found a switch by the grass discharge that wasnt touching the plastic discharge shoot. I realigned the plastic where it touched the switch and it fired right up. Apparently when hit the stump it hit the plastic and moved it from the switch. What a relief. Thanks for all the help.
E
ehs1331
Then I suggest your proceed through this troubleshooting procedure and report back.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position q(you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
I just got it figured out. I took all the plastics, seat and brackets off. I started going through all the saftey switches. While I was doing that I found a switch by the grass discharge that wasnt touching the plastic discharge shoot. I realigned the plastic where it touched the switch and it fired right up. Apparently when hit the stump it hit the plastic and moved it from the switch. What a relief. Thanks for all the help.