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Twenty year old mower that was working fine when mowing couple weeks ago, then just coughed and stopped running. I was
done mowing so thought it might have just run hot and sometimes struggles after an hour of running in warm weather. But
after sitting it usually starts right up and runs fine.

This time, however, after waiting more than a week, it won't turn over. It tries to start, but even when adjusting the choke,
it won't turn over. Any clues to what this could be. I'm not a mower expert at all, but if it's a simple problem. Maybe I
could try.

Really frustrated. Was working fine, then just coughed itself off. And now won't start.

Any help would be appreciated.

JD

Lets start with the model number of the lawnmower and also the model number of the engine so we can see what is giving your fits.

Thanks.

Model Number - 13AO663F352
Serial Number - 1E11OB70112

MTD Millennium, 15 HP, 38"

Thanks so much for helping. Think I got the above right.

JD

Try dumping a small amount of gas into the carb after removing the air filter. Also when was the last time the spark plug was replaced. Sometimes spark plugs can do weird things. If it starts and dies then most likely it is a carb problem, or fuel solenoid on the carb not working.

Okay. Did not want to do something dumb, so I thought I'd investigate before asking what is probably a dumb question. I removed the air filter, thought I'd clean it while off (was not too dirty), but got confused on where you wanted me to dump the small amount of gas.

Do you want me to dump it into the bottom of the plastic housing holding the air filter? Or do I have to take the entire air filter assembly off? Don't think I've ever done that.

Had to get back to work so won't get the chance to do something more till probably tomorrow. Thanks so much for helping me.

JD

PS - I did think about the spark plug, but thought because of the way it stopped. One cough, then it just stopped. Thought if it was spark plug I would had a sputter, then stop. Something to try next, though. Spark plug is a couple years old.

Yes the gas goes into the hole under the air filter that attaches to the carb. Basically we are bypassing the carb to see if you are having fuel delivery issues. Clogged carb jets, or fuel solenoid will prevent starting so the added fuel is a quick check to determine if you have a carb problem. If it doesn't start then that leads to checking for spark or other engine issues.

Did what you said. Not sure if I did it right. Guess I had been cranking so much, the battery went down, so I had to test it while jumping from car. It did, however, start for thirty seconds or so. I'm guessing that means its not spark plug. Not sure beyond that. Does that mean it's not selanoid either?

Not being anywhere near good at this. You had said before about clogged carb jets. Is that what's next to check. I have cleaned out the fuel lines before and the carb bowl, jets. Unsure if I completely recall how I did that.

Thanks so much for helping me.

JD

No fuel, no start.
You have spark.
Sorry but by your comments you really don't understand mechanical things.
Find a person by you that can help.

Ritchie. You are absolutely right. I don't understand mechanical things. Am trying to learn. Was never taught. Was just trying to see if I could fix this without taking it to a shop. Not making much right now with work in world situ.

I cleaned out the carb jets and fuel lines, sprayed with carb fluid. This had worked before. Battery was still down, so jumped with car. Spun but did not start.

I know you said it's not spark oriented, but thought I'd take out spark plug. It looked fine. One last thing, ... should I go out and buy a new spark plug (don't have one of that size) and try that. Or is that just not going to work, as you've noted.

Thanks for your patience. As noted, I know I'm not good at this.

JD

It's kind of a classic approach - when you don't know what's wrong, replace the cheapest parts first and hope for the best. Bit like people who change the transmission fluid when the car stops shifting properly. Unfortunately that usually isn't very successful.

It's not a problem to learn troubleshooting, but you really need to work logically, not randomly. If the plug is worn, replace it, but don't expect it to fix your problem. You know your engine runs when it has fuel, so you don't have an electrical problem. That's helpful. Work back from the carb. Are you seeing fuel flow to the carb? If not, is the fuel filter blocked? Is there fuel in the tank?

Thanks. The plug did not look worn and as you and others have said, the engine seems to run when it gets fuel. When I cleaned out the carb bowl and jets, and pulled off the tube, it was getting fuel. Fuel was flowing from the tank, I'm assuming, through the filter, tube, to the carburetor bowl.

What I'm wondering now is whether I have a fuel solenoid attached to the carburetor. There is an electrical connection going from there, left side of carburetor bowl, to the engine. Could that have gone bad? Either way, I'm thinking it has something to do with the carburetor. Am I thinking correctly?

here's what the solenoids usually look like, located on the bottom of the bowl.
Whenever you turn the key to the ON position, not start, but battery on, you should here it 'click' when the plunger retracts.

Thanks. I'm thinking I do have a solenoid, but it's located on the left side of the bowl. Different looking than the above, but think it is one. I'm not sure, but should I be able to unscrew it from the bowl. It looks like it's one molded piece, but perhaps that's just due to it not being clean.

I'm not hearing a click or feeling one when I touch it. I thought I'd hear a click with the starter solenoid, if that's appropriate, although maybe I'm not understanding how they're supposed to work. The battery was drained as I was trying to start it though, so maybe that's why neither is clicking. I've had to jump start it to check things.

Sorry for the dumb questions. Just trying to think through things I don't understand.

Thanks.

What engine brand and model is it? model numbers are usually stamped into the metal cover above the spark plug area.

Tecumseh 15 HP, Eduro XL/C

Model - OHV 155 204508F

Don't know if this would be helpful, but I'm attaching a picture of the carb. Been reading about a number of things to try, but don't want to do something too dumb without someone more expert than me suggesting it. As noted above, no mech experience here.

Yep, that's the carb solenoid...

Thanks for looking at that. I thought it was. When I cleaned it up it was more apparent. Any hints on what to do without replacing the whole carb. I've read that the solenoid is not really even needed, can be tied off, or that if it was removed, and the plunger inside is stuck, that it can be removed, or ground down. Not sure if those things are beyond me. I've seen another available at lower cost, if it must be replaced, but replacement may also be beyond me.


Thanks again. Not sure of my next move. Maybe unscrew it and take a look.

What would happen if you disconnected the wires? Would it just default to the position it's currently in, i.e. not working, if that's the problem I'm actually dealing with. Or is it just something that you should not do?

Appreciate everybody's help.

JD

Yep, with no power to it, it stops fuel flow.
They aren't needed... I use dykes/sidecutters and snip them off

Okay, ... I'm a bit unclear about the second line. Are you saying there's a way to bypass the solenoid by disabling it? Or am I misunderstanding?

That's a way to disable it, you snip the plunger and metal rod off it that actuates when power is on to it.
It may be slightly different on this Tecumseh carb.. I'll have to look at the parts diagram

Looks as though you should be able to remove it with a 1/2" or 13mm wrench.. has two flats on it.
If you have a voltmeter, i would check that you're getting voltage to the solenoid.

I removed it before I started work. Don't have a voltmeter. Removed the wires before taking it off. The plunger was stuck. I pounded it back to even with the housing, then put it back on. Haven't tried to start it yet. Was waiting for it to dry. It's a bit wet here, and I have to jump start it with car, so I'll wait till weather dries. Couple quick questions.

Should I try to start it without reattaching the wires? Or is that something I shouldn't do? Was thinking, although I might be completely wrong about this, that if it worked that way, I could just replace the solenoid with a threaded bolt the same size and go without one. Of course, that may not be possible.

If I don't try that, should I just try starting it with wires attached, but the plunger stuck in the open position for now. I didn't try to loosen the plunger, so I'm not sure if that's possible. But if it would stay open, ... maybe that would work.

Thanks so much for helping. Sorry if some of the above is just plain trying to think through.

JD

Some people do replace the hole with a bolt, just be sure it isn't too long...
if you try to start with the wires unplugged, it will not work because there is no power to the solenoid to retract it from the passage.

New solenoid part number is
Tecumseh 611221
I've found them on jacks for $40 and parts tree for $65... median price seems to be $50. of course, all it takes is snipping the plunger off even with the threads and ta dah.. but it would be nice to know if there is power going to the solenoid...

Thanks so much. I think I've confused myself a little. Thanks for your patience. If I replace it with a bolt, then I won't have the wires connected to anything. How would that work? Or am I thinking of that wrong.

Right now the plunger is so stuck, I'm not sure it will retract even with power. That's just a pure guess though.

On most solenoids (mainly the Kohler's i see) you can push the plunger in freely and it springs back out by itself.
It's fine if the wires don't go to anything... usually i just wrap the connectors up in electrical tape, and fold them up out of the way.

Got the chance to check it out. It worked. I did what you said, pushed the plunger, which was still stuck, back, flush to the housing, then reattached the solenoid without the wires connected. I had disconnected the wires and wrapped them up, then pushed them out of the way. It started up, and I mowed for an hour. Then stopped, waited an hour or so, then started again. It started right up again and mowed for an hour more. Not sure if it's a permanent solution, but it's working. Thanks!!! I really appreciate it!!!

Thanks so much for your help, and everyone's help, and your patience with someone who doesn't know much. I know that can be frustrating.

All the best. Thanks again.

JD

The only real problem is that you might hear a bang from the muffler when the engine shuts down.
If not, don't worry about it.

Fish said:

The only real problem is that you might hear a bang from the muffler when the engine shuts down.
If not, don't worry about it.

Click to expand...

Just adds a little excitement

It freaks my dog out!