MTD 13AM Won't Start

HDCornerCarver

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Picked up an old MTD rider with a 14.5HP Briggs. Was previously used to pull cars around at a garage.

I've replaced the carb, fuel lines/filter, spark plug and changed the oil. Had a no start, so replaced the battery, cleaned up eyelets on all connections, replaced the ignition switch and starter solenoid due to corrosion. Wiring looks okay, but I get no signs of life when trying to start it. I tried jumping the starter from the battery, but nothing happens. Engine turns fine by hand, piston looked okay with some minor carbon build up.

At this point I suspect a wiring issue somewhere along the line. My multimeter/power probe are at work, so I'll have to bring them home tomorrow and check wiring.

My other issue is that it will not roll in neutral. When the rear end is lifted, the wheels turn freely in opposing directions.

Any advice as to what I may have missed? I may just rewire the machine and bypass the safeties, though I'm not sure I can use my 7-pin ignition switch for such a thing.
 

StarTech

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Need full model number to look-up possible wiring schematic.

For one thing it sounds like the brake is stuck. The pins do rust or corrode in the brake caliper and jam.

If you jumped directly to the starter from the battery and the starter won't turn then you have a bad starter.
 

Fish

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Yeah, reach up to the brake lever on the side of the transmission and wiggle it, and see if you hear a clunk, then it should roll.
 

HDCornerCarver

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Need full model number to look-up possible wiring schematic.

Model 13AM675G062 MTD Yard Machine
Engine Model 287707-1224-E1 14.5HP B&S

Prior to changing the ignition switch and solenoid, it would occasionally buzz when turning the switch. Shorting the solenoid with a screwdriver did nothing, so I should've known it was the starter at that point. Both the ignition switch and solenoid were heavily corroded, so likely due for replacement anyways. I'll check voltage at the starter tomorrow to verify there's no other issues along the line. I was confused as the amperage meter seemed to move a bit when turning the old switch, but now does nothing. The inline fuse holder needs to be replaced as well as the terminals have corrosion built up.
 

HDCornerCarver

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Okay, so using a Power Probe, I verified 12V from the battery to the solenoid, the other leg reads ground. When I turn the ignition, I do not get power to the other leg. Seems odd as it's a brand new solenoid. I also tried sending power directly from the battery to the starter, but it seems that's not working. I may swap the old ignition switch back to see if that changes anything.

I should be able to verify power on both the second leg of the solenoid and at the starter post when turning the ignition correct?
 

StarTech

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Appears that you have a 3 post solenoid. The small post is the solenoid activation wire. Solenoid frame is the grounding point for the trigger circuit. Check to see if you are getting 12 v to the small terminal when the ignition is in the start position. If not there then it may be either the Brake/Clutch switch or the PTO switch.
 

HDCornerCarver

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Appears that you have a 3 post solenoid. The small post is the solenoid activation wire. Solenoid frame is the grounding point for the trigger circuit. Check to see if you are getting 12 v to the small terminal when the ignition is in the start position. If not there then it may be either the Brake/Clutch switch or the PTO switch.

I'll know for sure after replacing it tomorrow, but it seems I overlooked the fuse. It appeared to be okay, but I was reading 12V at one end and ground on the other via the Power Probe. Did a continuity test and do not have continuity at the fuse. Hopefully a new one does the trick.
 
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