El Guapo62
Forum Newbie
The front mounted mowing deck (automated) of my Grasshopper won't raise or drop. How should I proceed to get it working again? Thanks!
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
mowing deck won't go up or down
- Thread starter El Guapo62
- Start date
Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
Buy the actual repair manual for your machine and a multimeter and study the information to make logical diagnostic decisions.
A vast majority of my customer will not invest in a repair manual. Believe me it is better than guessing and swapping parts blindly.
These high-cost machines are not something to guess on.
A vast majority of my customer will not invest in a repair manual. Believe me it is better than guessing and swapping parts blindly.
These high-cost machines are not something to guess on.
If you run the mower raised up a little bit above ground, sometimes the actuator will seize up, and the height spacers will have to be cut and removed before you can move the cylinder.
This is because the deck is bouncing up and down on every bump, hammering the spacers into the top of stroke eventually; eventually they will be deformed and mushroomed to the point that they jam the cylinder, usually at the top.
Replacement spacers are cheap. I have had the same problem with mine. The deck is supposed to rest on the front wheels, and if you want to change height, add or subtract spacers. I cut my spacers to allow installing or removing them much easier. A simple diagonal cut will suffice; do not grind or cut out a slot. A sharp wood chisel will make nice clean cut. By cutting on an angle, the cut will align itself after you spread it to go over the shaft.
No danger of the spacer(s) falling out.
Br careful when cutting the spacers off of the shaft, so as not to damage the actuator shaft.
Easy light taps are sufficient to cut the nylon spacers. Normally ,a wood chisel is softer metal then the actuator metal ,so do not use a regular machinist's or mechanic's chisel because they are hard enough to damage the actuator shaft. Do not use a screwdriver as a chisel. They are also harder than the shaft and will damage it.
Check the fuse for the actuator ,it may have blown due to overload. Also check the connector at the actuator, it sometimes gets clogged with debris and will become intermittent or fail completely.
Unplug it, blow out the connections, use some contact cleaner and automotive bulb grease on the connector, both ends.
I sealed my connector with silicon gasket sealer so it will not get anymore contamination.
Heat shrink will also work, but I did not have any at the time of my repair. No problems since. Enclose both ends of the connector with the same piece of shrink tubing.
Any questions ,please reply.
This is because the deck is bouncing up and down on every bump, hammering the spacers into the top of stroke eventually; eventually they will be deformed and mushroomed to the point that they jam the cylinder, usually at the top.
Replacement spacers are cheap. I have had the same problem with mine. The deck is supposed to rest on the front wheels, and if you want to change height, add or subtract spacers. I cut my spacers to allow installing or removing them much easier. A simple diagonal cut will suffice; do not grind or cut out a slot. A sharp wood chisel will make nice clean cut. By cutting on an angle, the cut will align itself after you spread it to go over the shaft.
No danger of the spacer(s) falling out.
Br careful when cutting the spacers off of the shaft, so as not to damage the actuator shaft.
Easy light taps are sufficient to cut the nylon spacers. Normally ,a wood chisel is softer metal then the actuator metal ,so do not use a regular machinist's or mechanic's chisel because they are hard enough to damage the actuator shaft. Do not use a screwdriver as a chisel. They are also harder than the shaft and will damage it.
Check the fuse for the actuator ,it may have blown due to overload. Also check the connector at the actuator, it sometimes gets clogged with debris and will become intermittent or fail completely.
Unplug it, blow out the connections, use some contact cleaner and automotive bulb grease on the connector, both ends.
I sealed my connector with silicon gasket sealer so it will not get anymore contamination.
Heat shrink will also work, but I did not have any at the time of my repair. No problems since. Enclose both ends of the connector with the same piece of shrink tubing.
Any questions ,please reply.