Hi all! Looking for some help on a John Deere LT166.
My neighbor gave me the mower with a blown B&S 16hp v-twin. I purchased a good used 24hp B&S v-twin Intek to replace it. Got it bolted up and all of the wires connected and started the mower. It ran great with now issues. While mowing, I did notice that the button to keep the PTO engaged while traveling in reverse was not working, the blades stayed engaged without pushing the button. The next time I started it, it started fine again. I had to shut it off to put the cowling back on and when I tried to start it again, the solenoid clicked but the starter didn't engage. I replaced the starter with the starter that was on the mower before, that tested good while off of the mower, and still nothing but clicks. I have checked all battery and ground connections and everything seems to be connected and getting good voltage and ground. I have noticed, however, that after trying to start the mower, I am getting about 2.5 volts on the starter housing. I found this out when my multimeter prong accidentally touched it when checking for 12v at the starter connection. Is this a sign of a bad ground somewhere? I am getting 12v on the solenoid trigger pole and ground on the solenoid ground pole as well as 12v at the starter.
Any ideas? Any help is greatly appreciated.
#2
winmod21
Very similar symptoms happened with our GT225 garden tractor, after it had sat for a long while, even though our battery registered 12.1~3 volts (with no load); as well, after charging & jumping the JD STStrongBox battery— that looked to be in great shape, with good electrolyte levels —there was no change, no cranking, still just the starter solenoid clicking. :~\
Then we took it in to be tested and found out it had a dead cell. :~\
So we bought a new 500 CCA battery and Vroooom! ...it fired right up !
Thus we learned that even though a battery can register over 12v (with no load), it can still have a dead cell and no CCA power.
Btw, also found out that a fully charged 12v battery should register no less than 12.6 volts (with no load), afaik, in most cases.
Normally on a car engine, the starter is the largest amp draw on the vehicle. Best to run the main negative cable from the battery - post to the starter body bolt directly.
Where does your - cable connect on the engine? I would clean slash polish that ground connection. Also look up star grounding washers. #2 in the below diagram. Little dielectric grease wouldn't hurt either.
That tells me bad ground. Should be close to 0 volts DC there on the starter housing. You have a 2.5 volt DC voltage drop there. That is if I am reading what you wrote correctly.
That tells me bad ground. Should be close to 0 volts DC there on the starter housing. You have a 2.5 volt DC voltage drop there. That is if I am reading what you wrote correctly.
Slomo,
I am getting 2.5v on the starter housing itself using my multimeter. Neg on battery neg post and touching pos prong of multimeter to starter housing. Starter housing should be grounded to frame through mounting bolts and have no voltage on it.
Got it figured out. Main ground. It was taped up with black tape and I thought it was done to make a red cable black for ground. Turns out it was spliced and not making good connection at the splice. Put on new ground cable and runs like a new mower.
