Thanks for the replies, guys. Yes, I clean the deck everyday. Hadn't thought about checking for a dead cylinder, but will do that later today or tomorrow, but don't think that is the problem. Cutting the grass in question at 3 1/2", have had to go to 4" sometimes, just to finally get it done.have you verified its running on both cylinders? take a temperature gun and compare heat readings from cylinder to cylinder OR start the mower up, get to operating temperature and pull a plug wire off of a spark plug, if the engine stays running, put it back on and pull the other one, if it dies, your other cylinder is dead.
did you ever get this issue figured out. 3-1/2" - 4" is not high at all, that's pretty much my standard cutting height.... if I'm gone for a month I'll have to cut anywhere from 9" - 12" and only have to slow down my speed too about 1/2 - 2/3rds normal speed.Thanks for the replies, guys. Yes, I clean the deck everyday. Hadn't thought about checking for a dead cylinder, but will do that later today or tomorrow, but don't think that is the problem. Cutting the grass in question at 3 1/2", have had to go to 4" sometimes, just to finally get it done.
I think I read there are 7 sensors on the EFI engines, and there really is no way to check them without the software. I didn't know if there was anything else I could check on the engine.
Naw, haven't yet. 2 3/4" - 3" is kinda standard cutting height here. Lots of centipede grass and most like it short, some down to 2 1/2". It does ok that short. But planning on taking mower to dealer next week after the first and let them connect to computer. Engine is EFI, and I think I read where it is a wireless connection. Of course, they will charge me for an hours worth of work for a 10 minute thing. But hey, that's ok. They have a lot more overhead than me.did you ever get this issue figured out. 3-1/2" - 4" is not high at all, that's pretty much my standard cutting height.... if I'm gone for a month I'll have to cut anywhere from 9" - 12" and only have to slow down my speed too about 1/2 - 2/3rds normal speed.
Naw, haven't yet. 2 3/4" - 3" is kinda standard cutting height here. Lots of centipede grass and most like it short, some down to 2 1/2". It does ok that short. But planning on taking mower to dealer next week after the first and let them connect to computer. Engine is EFI, and I think I read where it is a wireless connection. Of course, they will charge me for an hours worth of work for a 10 minute thing. But hey, that's ok. They have a lot more overhead than me.
Still waiting on mower from dealer, will update when I get results. Should be this week. Meanwhile, have a question. Am considering getting the diesel model (2600?), and wonder how anyone who has one would rate it to the gas models ? Interested in does it have more power, etc...I surely will. Thanks for the reply.,
Do you plan on running the mower for lots of acreage and hours? Why would you want a diesel? Costs for purchase and to maintain will be more with diesel.Still waiting on mower from dealer, will update when I get results. Should be this week. Meanwhile, have a question. Am considering getting the diesel model (2600?), and wonder how anyone who has one would rate it to the gas models ? Interested in does it have more power, etc...
At times, that's why I'm doing homework. Understand about costs. Just looking for facts to support decision. There are days when I cut some fields and orchards for 4-6 hours at a time. I have literally worn this mower out. Already replaced the deck.Do you plan on running the mower for lots of acreage and hours? Why would you want a diesel? Costs for purchase and to maintain will be more with diesel.
Thanks for the input. That's inline with what I hear. I guess I was looking for someone with a good reason not to go that route.My experience with diesels is that they are very reliable engine wise. I use a JD 650 mini tractor for over 20 yrs without cutting 11 acres every couple weeks during the growing season.
Yep, if you are going to mow for hours on end, a diesel may be the way to go. I have only mowed with one diesel zero turn, and it was an Onan on a Dixie Chopper. You may also consider a 72” deck over a 60”.1-2 cylinder air cooled engine will have a life expectancy of 1000-2000 hours. Water cooled 2 cylinder gas like some Kawasaki can be in the 2-3K hours. Multicylinder engines like a 3 cylinder Kubota gas can go 3-5K hours. And diesels can be in the 4-10K hour range.
I kinda figured everything I've read. Just wanted to see if there were facts I hadn't thought of. Thanks for all the info. BTW, have 1500+ hours on mower.Yep, if you are going to mow for hours on end, a diesel may be the way to go. I have only mowed with one diesel zero turn, and it was an Onan on a Dixie Chopper. You may also consider a 72” deck over a 60”.
Think I got mower back to normal.. Dealer said the engine overheated, but couldn't tell me why or how. Said I needed a new engine (imagine that from a dealer). Said the engine bogged down because of low compression, but since the cylinder walls weren't scored, the rings must be bad. duh. Anyway, took mower home. Went to cut a 10 acre field, and every time I made a circle, the engine would go into overheat; drop to lowest rpm's and lope, and after about 3 minutes it would even out. Cut it off, restart, and ok. So now I'm really getting frustrated. Maybe the temp sensor is bad, so I ordered on. Then while changing the sensor I happened to look at the cylinder fins. Half of the fins on each side were completely covered and crusted with dirt and whatever else would stick there. Scraped a lot out. Went to hardware store and got a brush, got most of the rest out. Then I sprayed the fins with brake cleaner. Got the fins real clean. Then the pressure washer got the rest. I feel sure that is what caused the engine to overheat. Put the new sensor in, and so far has been running fine. Haven't cut a field that big again, but did do a job for about 3 1/2 hours with no problems. Come to think of it, that's about how long I was at the big field. I'd like to put a temp gauge in, but unable to find anything that would work, maybe someone here could point me in the right direction.I surely will. Thanks for the reply.,
no excuse for letting it get like that when the engine is totally accessible with an air hose or water hose. My IS2600 gets totally cleaned after each mowing. Radiator screen gets pulled and cleared as well as the radiator cleared of silt and crude..... pay me now or pay me later.....Here are the fins...
I can't argue with you. I had a mounting plate bolted to the rear bumper for the grass collection system, covered the whole back of the mower where the engine is. The fins were not visible. And since I had never encountered that problem before, never thought to check. When I removed the mounting plate to replace the temp sensor, I saw the fins. I think the mounting plate contributed to insufficient air circulation to keep fins clear. Anyway, what's done is done, and I'm a tad bit smarter.no excuse for letting it get like that when the engine is totally accessible with an air hose or water hose. My IS2600 gets totally cleaned after each mowing. Radiator screen gets pulled and cleared as well as the radiator cleared of silt and crude..... pay me now or pay me later.....
You need a new dealer. Apparently they can’t take ten minutes to remove engine shroud and check cooling fins for dirt and debris.Think I got mower back to normal.. Dealer said the engine overheated, but couldn't tell me why or how. Said I needed a new engine (imagine that from a dealer). Said the engine bogged down because of low compression, but since the cylinder walls weren't scored, the rings must be bad. duh. Anyway, took mower home. Went to cut a 10 acre field, and every time I made a circle, the engine would go into overheat; drop to lowest rpm's and lope, and after about 3 minutes it would even out. Cut it off, restart, and ok. So now I'm really getting frustrated. Maybe the temp sensor is bad, so I ordered on. Then while changing the sensor I happened to look at the cylinder fins. Half of the fins on each side were completely covered and crusted with dirt and whatever else would stick there. Scraped a lot out. Went to hardware store and got a brush, got most of the rest out. Then I sprayed the fins with brake cleaner. Got the fins real clean. Then the pressure washer got the rest. I feel sure that is what caused the engine to overheat. Put the new sensor in, and so far has been running fine. Haven't cut a field that big again, but did do a job for about 3 1/2 hours with no problems. Come to think of it, that's about how long I was at the big field. I'd like to put a temp gauge in, but unable to find anything that would work, maybe someone here could point me in the right direction.
my comments weren't meant as personal digs, just reality check. Early on I never really thought it was all that big a deal until a dealer pointed out that the engine housing can get just as clogged up as a mowing deck. That woke me up and I started doing that cleaning every time and not just a few times a year.I can't argue with you. I had a mounting plate bolted to the rear bumper for the grass collection system, covered the whole back of the mower where the engine is. The fins were not visible. And since I had never encountered that problem before, never thought to check. When I removed the mounting plate to replace the temp sensor, I saw the fins. I think the mounting plate contributed to insufficient air circulation to keep fins clear. Anyway, what's done is done, and I'm a tad bit smarter.
I see where Kawasaki has cut out holes on the engine top cover on both sides as inspection portals. I think I will do something like that on mine.
Thanks for listening and replying.
Agree about the dealer, but not another anywhere close. But that is why I do all my own maintenance. Long story on this trip, just wanted them to hook up to computer and tell me what it said. Anyway, appear to be back to normal. I still think the large mounting plate on the rear restricted air flow that would have blown all the stuff away that got clogged up.my comments weren't meant as personal digs, just reality check. Early on I never really thought it was all that big a deal until a dealer pointed out that the engine housing can get just as clogged up as a mowing deck. That woke me up and I started doing that cleaning every time and not just a few times a year.
Was this overheat or starving for fuel in the turn? As in a plugged fuel tank outlet?Went to cut a 10 acre field, and every time I made a circle, the engine would go into overheat; drop to lowest rpm's and lope, and after about 3 minutes it would even out.
Points to a plugged fuel tank or fuel line/filter issue again.Cut it off, restart, and ok.
Shooting in the dark, not testing what you have is pointless. Heck throw some cash my way. LOLMaybe the temp sensor is bad, so I ordered on.
On to something here.......... I bet in your engine manual it says to keep those fins clean. Heard that somewhere before. Pure sarcasm.Half of the fins on each side were completely covered and crusted with dirt and whatever else would stick there. Scraped a lot out. Went to hardware store and got a brush, got most of the rest out. Then I sprayed the fins with brake cleaner. Got the fins real clean.
Agree.I feel sure that is what caused the engine to overheat.
Forget the magic temp gauge. Keep the cooling fins clean as yours and every other air cooled engine manual out there says to. This is a yearly or more often maintenance item. If you scalp or bag, do this more frequently as well. Remember these are AIR COOLED engines.Put the new sensor in, and so far has been running fine. Haven't cut a field that big again, but did do a job for about 3 1/2 hours with no problems. Come to think of it, that's about how long I was at the big field. I'd like to put a temp gauge in, but unable to find anything that would work, maybe someone here could point me in the right direction.
Go get em' Abe.......no excuse for letting it get like that when the engine is totally accessible with an air hose or water hose. My IS2600 gets totally cleaned after each mowing. Radiator screen gets pulled and cleared as well as the radiator cleared of silt and crude..... pay me now or pay me later.....
Again, this is a MUST DO on every air cooled small engine out there. Mowers, trimmers, blowers, chain saws and so on...... Minimum yearly or more often is the interval.The fins were not visible. And since I had never encountered that problem before, never thought to check.
Maybe you should point out the misdiagnosis to the dealer on the clogged cooling fins. Most people do not know how important checking and cleaning the top of engine and cooling fins, on an AIR COOLED engine is. It is good to not be completely dependent on a shop to check things out yourself.Agree about the dealer, but not another anywhere close. But that is why I do all my own maintenance. Long story on this trip, just wanted them to hook up to computer and tell me what it said. Anyway, appear to be back to normal. I still think the large mounting plate on the rear restricted air flow that would have blown all the stuff away that got clogged up.
And no offence taken Abe, but truth is truth. I prefer truth over non-truth any day. At 75, I'm still learning. Anyway, headed out to shop to sharpen and balance blades.