'09 Husqvarna 2248 with the B&S 445577 Intek ate too much bypass dust and finally cratered at 400 hours. Did the Ebay thing, got a good deal on a B&S 44m777-0289 B1, 24 HP Extended Life Series Engine, got a B&S warranty, etc. Set, right?
It appeared to be for a John Deere application originally given all the stickers, but it fit in all respects until I got to the throttle and governor assembly. . .had to take the original linkage off the older motor to get all the throttle/choke cables hooked back up the same as before. Everything looks right. . .
Set the mechanical governor full clockwise with the throttle/governor arm at full throttle, got it running and idling- and noticed that it does NOT stop at the same RPM as the former engine. Boy, does this thing want to rev high! I do not have a tach, but it sounds like it might be turning 4000 plus RPM. . .and that at part throttle.
Put it all back together to load it up with accessories, thinking/hoping that that might tame it down some- and this thing is way faster, wayyyy stronger and cutting wayyyy better. . . .too good, in my opinion.
I am afraid that it will break a rod if I let anyone else mow with the thing. I suspect either it was set up for a backup generator, and I need to do something different with the carburetor settings or I have an internal governor problem. Anyone got some intel they would like to share? Can't seem to find anything on the net about exactly how this thing is set up to work. . .hate to put the old carb on it, love the new filtration system they came up with.
I'm not sure on your engine but, there's usually a spring to control the govenor with different settings. See if you can set it alittle stiffer. gregjo1948
Sounds to me like your have not set the controls properly or you have to reset the governor. I suspect governor. I would go back and reset the governor.
Thanks to you both- this one has the governor attached via lever arm and push/pull wire linkage directly to the butterfly valve of the carburetor. I am trying to download pictures to show. The throttle simply increases the spring tension in a full power direction, opposed by the opposite pull of the governor lever once the engine is turning. Right now, that governor will not swing at at all in a CCW or idle directionon its own while the motor runs. I feel sure from reading other posts on here that the internal parts of the governor are broken or disengaged in some manner. As you can no doubt see, the pictures are all over the map. To see them in the manner that you should, all but two need to spin CW.
Hopefully you can get the idea. The 90 degree angled arm is attached at the bottom to the governor shaft. The other end is attached to the butterfly valves/ throttle plate at the carburetor. As the arm rotates CW, the throttle plate is opened. The round disk at the front is what the throttle cable is attached to- a push on the throttle to High swivels this disk CW, putting tension on springs behind the disk assembly, pulling the lever CW like I did with my finger.
When the engine is running, the governor shaft and arm assembly pulls CCW- Toward idle. Throttle up to high pulls the arm CW and opens the throttle plate.
Well, it would if mine were pulling CCW on startup and run. Shaft is apparently not attached internally to its flyweights. Sharp eyes will notice a counter spring installed: that was the only way I could get control of the throttle to achieve idle. I drilled two holes and put in a pull back spring to pull the arm CCW toward idle, as the internal flyweights ought to.
Question is now, can I mow with this thing, or will internal components and perhaps metal from possibly broken governor parts crater the rest of the internals?
I am fairly sure of that answer. . .I need to take advantage of the warranty I supposedly was guaranteed by my Ebay seller and take it to a service center. . .but darn! My grass won't wait for that fix- nearest is 60 miles south and probably a week or more wait time.
