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It starts fine when choked but, though throttle cable feels connected, engine speed doesn't drop when I move the control to the slow seed position. If it's the cable clamp or connection how do I get to it to repair? Thanks -

we need more info what is the engine name mode/serial and machine info also

Flintmotorsports said:

we need more info what is the engine name mode/serial and machine info also

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Its a Duraforce 6.5 hp silver series 1998-2004 model. i think the problem is in the idle circuit on the side of the carb has trash in it. Or the governor wheel is set too high and the spring cant be released enough when you pull the throttle back. or you might need to move the screw on plastic piece on the air breather needs to be moved to have less choke. Just some thoughts!

have you tried pulling back the throttle by hand on the carb? have you cleaned the carb? if not try them and see what you come up with.

It's a 2002 Lawn Boy Silver Pro series 2-stroke 6.5 Duraforce.

Flintmotorsports said:

we need more info what is the engine name mode/serial and machine info also

Click to expand...

Thank you very much for the suggestions. I don't know why I'm concerning myself with a lawnmower as the outside temperature is below freezing and I just mounted the plow on my truck. I just bought this Lawn Boy after pretty much giving up on getting a much older Model 8237 to run reliably.

Maybe I'll bring it in the house and work on it. Thanks again -

no problem if you need anymore help just ask

Looks like the problem is the governor spring. Although it looks hooked to the throttle slide and the other end is poking out of the hole in the boss on the adjustor wheel, the spring puts no tension on the vane assembly. If I move the vane manually towards me on the muffler side it just sticks. I tried rotating the click-wheel clockwise, when looking down on the engine, to try to get some tension in the spring but couldn't. You can see there's slack where the hooked end of the spring goes around the arm coming from the slide. By the way, I was asked before for the model and serial number. It's a 10323 serial # 220028437 which makes it a 2002 model I think.

No wonder it only ran flat out as the throttle remains stuck wide open no matter what the control is calling for. I'm trying to summon my courage to remove the carburetor assembly as I've watched videos of others struggling with the reinstallation. Any helpful ideas or just encouragement will be appreciated. Bob

it is not that hard to take a carb off if you dont think you can do it right take a picture so you put it back together right so you have something to look at for a refrence in the future

Thanks for the idea and the encouragement.

Moran73 said:

Looks like the problem is the governor spring. Although it looks hooked to the throttle slide and the other end is poking out of the hole in the boss on the adjustor wheel, the spring puts no tension on the vane assembly. If I move the vane manually towards me on the muffler side it just sticks. I tried rotating the click-wheel clockwise, when looking down on the engine, to try to get some tension in the spring but couldn't. You can see there's slack where the hooked end of the spring goes around the arm coming from the slide. By the way, I was asked before for the model and serial number. It's a 10323 serial # 220028437 which makes it a 2002 model I think.

No wonder it only ran flat out as the throttle remains stuck wide open no matter what the control is calling for. I'm trying to summon my courage to remove the carburetor assembly as I've watched videos of others struggling with the reinstallation. Any helpful ideas or just encouragement will be appreciated. Bob

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There is a way to put those gov springs on upside down i think. you are going to have to take the whole carb apart to get it changed. if it is sticking wide open i bet it is running really fast too! take the shroud off when you do it because this will give you more room. you can do it! use the carb bolts to line everything up when you put it back together. the cup side of the vane is supposed to move right to left if you are standing at the handle of the machine.

no problem that is what we are here for

Here are a couple of websites that might help you. The first one has service manuals and the second one is a parts breakdown for your carb. You will have to search the different manuals to find yours. I think you need a new govenor spring. They look hard to replace, but with the manual and patience you should be able to do it.

https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/acrobat/manuals/lball.html

Jacks Small Engine Parts Help Page

Thanks to all. I'll report back. Bob

About to remove the governor/vane and its adjustor from the throttle shaft and before I break something not already broken, are they just press-fit on the throttle shaft or....? More specifically what is the recommended way to remove the governor/adjustor from the throttle shaft to check the return spring which I suspect is broken or improperly installed causing the throttle to stay wide open. Thanks Bob

Forget that last question. I just realized I need to remove the throttle disc so the vane can be pulled up and out. Sorry Bob

Here's an update and a question for anyone still interested.

I thought I'd found the problem when I noticed that the leg of the throttle return spring that goes through the slot in the speed adjustor was barely bent and therefore didn't provide enough tension to return the governor vane to the throttle open position when the vane was manually swung to the throttle closed position. I bent it at 90 degrees, causing it to now return the vane/throtle to wide open when released, reassembled it and sorrowfully experienced the same flat out only running with the throttle control having no effect in the low speed position. The vane seemed to be sticking again so I ordered a new throttle return spring and am about to install it but one question remains. I know that rotating the adjustor click-by-click is a high speed adjustment device but where should the adjustor position start? I'm guessing that the governor works by using the vane in the air stream to offset the return spring pressure which the throttle cable adjusts. My question is when installing a new throttle return spring what is a reasonable starting adjustment position? Is it the position that just gets the vane to spring back open? And, by the way, is my understanding of the governor/throttle operation stated above correct? Thanks Bob

In the website I posted earlier, under the section on governors, they explain how to preload the spring better than I can.

Rivets said:

In the website I posted earlier, under the section on governors, they explain how to preload the spring better than I can.

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I've tried but can't find the post to which you refer. Can you guide me to it? I've looked at all your posts but can't seem to find one on governors. I have one I found some time ago that begins,"Okay, the air vane is the white "flag" that extends..... Is that it? Thank you - Bob

Here it is.

https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/acrobat/manuals/lball.html

Rivets said:

Here it is.

https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/acrobat/manuals/lball.html

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Thank you. My model #10323 is a 2002 model but perhaps the governor description of these older models is general enough to be useful. Bob

If you understand how to do the older ones, the newer models are simple.

Rivets said:

If you understand how to do the older ones, the newer models are simple.

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Looks like the instructions for the F300 governor resemble the governor on my Model 10323.

Thank you again Bob