LTX 1050 FRONT WHEEL BUSHINGS

Biones

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Hello, I bought a used Cub LTX 1050. The front wheel bushing that are made of some sort of plastic are worn out and missing pieces. I ordered new inner and outer bushings as indicated by serial number. When installed one side or the other is longer than it should be which allows the wheel hub to float back and forth on the bushings instead of being sandwiched between the flares on each piece, probably by 3/16 of an inch or so. Also, when the wheel is mounted and pushed all the way to the inside of the spindle the tire rubs on the two flange things on the top of the spindle arm. This also leaves about 7/16 of space between the outer capture washer and the flare on the outer bushing. This allows the entire group to float back and forth on the spindle the same 7/16's.
I cut off two pieces of the old bushings and used them as spacers on the inside fixing the rubbing problem and the 7/16 back and forth slop. This still leaves the 3/16 slop of the wheel on the two bushing halves.
So, is my wheel hub to narrow? Hard to imagine.
Are the spindles to long? Again, hard to imagine.
Am I supposed to cut the new bushings to length? Again!
The parts blow up does not show spacers on the inside to prevent wheel rub.
I would like to refurbish it properly.

I watched a YouTube video of a guy swapping these parts and mentioning he needed to cut the bushing to size. WHAT? Doesn't sound right. This should be very simple, 1 cotter pin and some grease.


Does anyone know of a bronze bushing upgrade or even a new wheel/ball bearing conversion? My yard is large and not putting green smooth so these parts will be getting a work out.
Thanks
 

KennethP.

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May 27, 2017
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Hello, I bought a used Cub LTX 1050. The front wheel bushing that are made of some sort of plastic are worn out and missing pieces. I ordered new inner and outer bushings as indicated by serial number. When installed one side or the other is longer than it should be which allows the wheel hub to float back and forth on the bushings instead of being sandwiched between the flares on each piece, probably by 3/16 of an inch or so. Also, when the wheel is mounted and pushed all the way to the inside of the spindle the tire rubs on the two flange things on the top of the spindle arm. This also leaves about 7/16 of space between the outer capture washer and the flare on the outer bushing. This allows the entire group to float back and forth on the spindle the same 7/16's.
I cut off two pieces of the old bushings and used them as spacers on the inside fixing the rubbing problem and the 7/16 back and forth slop. This still leaves the 3/16 slop of the wheel on the two bushing halves.
So, is my wheel hub to narrow? Hard to imagine.
Are the spindles to long? Again, hard to imagine.
Am I supposed to cut the new bushings to length? Again!
The parts blow up does not show spacers on the inside to prevent wheel rub.
I would like to refurbish it properly.

I watched a YouTube video of a guy swapping these parts and mentioning he needed to cut the bushing to size. WHAT? Doesn't sound right. This should be very simple, 1 cotter pin and some grease.


Does anyone know of a bronze bushing upgrade or even a new wheel/ball bearing conversion? My yard is large and not putting green smooth so these parts will be getting a work out.
Thanks
The bushing's you installed should have one with a grease fitting.The inner bushing with grease fitting will be longer and are installed on the inner side.Also,they are tight so you have to tap them in.They will have a little play.I have a Lt 1046 and just got a free LTX 1045.
 

Biones

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Yep, inner bushing had the grease fitting molded into it. The only thing I can guess is that there is a serial number discrepancy or something. I looked the parts up on several sites and all share the same numbers.
Or
Somebody changed the front wheels out and the center hub is narrower than it should be. That would account for the bushings being to long and the spindle being too long.
????
 

KennethP.

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May 27, 2017
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Yep, inner bushing had the grease fitting molded into it. The only thing I can guess is that there is a serial number discrepancy or something. I looked the parts up on several sites and all share the same numbers.
Or
Somebody changed the front wheels out and the center hub is narrower than it should be. That would account for the bushings being to long and the spindle being too long.
????

Does make sense.My engine donor mower was a Troybilt and it had a different rim than the other.There was a difference in the rim for sure.The bushing on the inside was not in the metal rim has far because there was not enough metal lip has the factory rim.So that left more plastic bushing out to flex.Has of the wheel's.They do sale rim's with a metal sealed wheel bearing's in them.I like the plastic because they are cheap and easy to replace instead of the metal wearing down on the spindles.
 

7394

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Sep 5, 2014
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Does make sense.My engine donor mower was a Troybilt and it had a different rim than the other.There was a difference in the rim for sure.The bushing on the inside was not in the metal rim has far because there was not enough metal lip has the factory rim.So that left more plastic bushing out to flex.Has of the wheel's.They do sale rim's with a metal sealed wheel bearing's in them.I like the plastic because they are cheap and easy to replace instead of the metal wearing down on the spindles.


The sealed bearings are supposed to fit snugly on the spindle so the inner race does NOT turn. Then they last & last.
 
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