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I need to rebuild or replace the carb on my LTX 1040 with the 19hp kohler engine. It has leaked from what appears to be the Solenoid. This year when I fueledup it must be leaking thru the needle. I removed the Air Filter and fuel ran out. So I need advice and parts # for a complete carb or a rebuild kit or solenoid and all gasket for the repair. I think its a 2011 machine The numbers on the carb LMK Walbro 3 154 01302005335 Mexico 3509 7561

Check out e-replacement parts or Jack's small engine online. You will need the numbers off of the engine label on the air shroud.

These engines were used on many different mowers,

Will need the actual model and specification number and in some cases the engine serial number from the engine tag

Likely it is the SV590 LMK carb 20 853 89-S but as said need the engine model and spec numbers to be sure.

Kohler 19 hp Model SV 590S Spec SV590-0220 SN. 4005615513 DOM 02/25/2010

That spec is coming up with it using a 20 853-35-S Carb.

Repair Kit 12 757 03-S
Solenoid Repair Kit 25 757 25-S. This includes the new heat shield for the solenoid.

Thanks

Installed new aftermarket Carb. Won,t start unless spray fuel down the throat. Where does power to the solenoid come from and is there a fuse somewhere for this circuit. I believe the solenoid isn,t allowing fuel to flow inside the carb Help?

Power comes direct from Battery via key switch Boss. You should hear the solenoid click when you turn the key to the on position.

If you can't hear click, check plug (connector at solenoid) for battery voltage with key switch in on position.

It connects to the Red wire that comes from the A1 ign switch. Black solenoid wire attaches to the engine body or a part attached to it.

While you are at it check your oil make sure you didn't get gas in the engine oil, if so drain and change the oil. Also I would put a fuel shutoff valve in the fuel line.

AND hang onto your OEM Walbro carb. The are easy to re-build and usually result in a better carb than the replacements.
Rebuild it as a spare in your spare time.

Ok Now more problems It ran fine for 30 minutes drove around and Dethated yard. Parked next day hard to start but finally did. Drove to barn to get trailer and engine started to hunt rpm up/down. I went back to garage shut off looked over machine and tried to start. No start even with a shot down the carb. I winged on the starter a lot Now no starter spin Solenoid clicks loud but no voltage to the starter cable connector. What the hell should I just cut my losses and burn this rig??

That's what comes typically comes with enternet aftermarket carbs, another problem. Buy one from someone who has some quality control.

fayjim2 said:

Ok Now more problems It ran fine for 30 minutes drove around and Dethated yard. Parked next day hard to start but finally did. Drove to barn to get trailer and engine started to hunt rpm up/down. I went back to garage shut off looked over machine and tried to start. No start even with a shot down the carb. I winged on the starter a lot Now no starter spin Solenoid clicks loud but no voltage to the starter cable connector. What the hell should I just cut my losses and burn this rig??

Click to expand...

Sounds like electrical to me. Make sure all of the safety switches are working and engaged. Hitting the starter does nothing, not like the old car starters.

Bluedog said:

Sounds like electrical to me. Make sure all of the safety switches are working and engaged. Hitting the starter does nothing, not like the old car starters.

Click to expand...

Actually it does do something. Breaks the magnets that are epoxied to the outer housing rendering the starter useless.

Why so many safety switches, are they really all that neccessary? Which ones actualy stop engine from starting ,electric and fuel from flowing? The seat switch has been unplugged for years now. Can I just disarm them? I just got a kit for the Walbro but I need to get the engine turning first and yes the grass is growing and I,m in mower pieces?

"New" aftermarket carburetors often come with junk anti backfire solenoids. Some of them can be modified by just clipping off the plunger tip or remove the center pin.

Then install an inline manual inline fuel cutoff. It's better to run the carb dry anyway, because Ethanol fuel will corrode the aluminum carburetor housing and bowl on many models.

I eliminated a majority of my carburetor related issues by doing this.

fayjim2 said:

Why so many safety switches, are they really all that neccessary? Which ones actualy stop engine from starting ,electric and fuel from flowing? The seat switch has been unplugged for years now. Can I just disarm them? I just got a kit for the Walbro but I need to get the engine turning first and yes the grass is growing and I,m in mower pieces?

Click to expand...

Safety switches: WHY
You asked: Why so many safety switches, are they really all that neccessary?
Can I just disarm them?

It's your call, but think about this.

The safety stuff is mainly to reduce the chance of spilling a hot cup of coffee in the crotch and then hiring a HOT CUP OF COFFEE IN THE CROTCH ATTORNEY to sue the maker of the item.

Seen where most all playground eq is not made in USA, made in foreign countries because the foreign countries do not care how often the USA attorneys try to sue.

I seen a guy that that got chewed up by a mower that he had bypassed the seat switch. He suffered for 24 hours before expiring. I was the first responder to the scene.

Don't hurt the messenger.

Forest#2 said:

Safety switches: WHY
You asked: Why so many safety switches, are they really all that neccessary?
Can I just disarm them?

It's your call, but think about this.

The safety stuff is mainly to reduce the chance of spilling a hot cup of coffee in the crotch and then hiring a HOT CUP OF COFFEE IN THE CROTCH ATTORNEY to sue the maker of the item.

Seen where most all playground eq is not made in USA, made in foreign countries because the foreign countries do not care how often the USA attorneys try to sue.

I seen a guy that that got chewed up by a mower that he had bypassed the seat switch. He suffered for 24 hours before expiring. I was the first responder to the scene.

Don't hurt the messenger.

Click to expand...

I agree, but also believe that people should be responsible for their own actions. So unless the equipment failed and caused the injury the company should not be responsible. All the safety switches are there to protect stupid people from doing stupid things and blaming somebody else for their stupid actions. I saw let darwin be the result.

And we all do stupid things that result in injuries. Like trying to lift something too heavy resulting in distal bicep tendon detachment requiring surgery to reinsert the tenson and have months of recovery. Or wrapping a ratchet strap around a tire to push the beads out when mounting a new tire to get the tire to seal long enough to air the tire up and releasing the strap results in the ratchet cutting your arm just above the wrist requiring 8 stiches to close the wound.

Lets be a little bit reasonable, If you are stupid enough to be run over by the turning deck maybe its better that they don,t produce offspring. I was referring to safety switches that stop the engine from starting/running. I fully realize that safety is sometimes trying to protect us from ourselves.

You say from post #18: The seat switch has been unplugged for years now.
AND
Lets be a little bit reasonable

That is what caused the guy in my post #20 to expire.
HE had bypassed the seat operator presence switch and fell off the mower and it ran over him. It was his own doings.

Just saying. Be ready to accept your own doings.
C/P from above:
. All the safety switches are there to protect stupid people from doing stupid things and blaming somebody else for their stupid actions. I say let Darwin be the result.

About your question: The clutch brake switch and PTO switch are two safties that failure will prevent a riding mower engine from cranking.

Locate and post up a wiring diagram of your machine? (from the exact model number)
We can then give you some electrical troubleshooting tips.

Forest#2 said:

You say from post #18: The seat switch has been unplugged for years now.
AND
Lets be a little bit reasonable

That is what caused the guy in my post #20 to expire.
HE had bypassed the seat operator presence switch and fell off the mower and it ran over him. It was his own doings.

Just saying. Be ready to accept your own doings.
C/P from above:
. All the safety switches are there to protect stupid people from doing stupid things and blaming somebody else for their stupid actions. I say let Darwin be the result.

About your question: The clutch brake switch and PTO switch are two safties that failure will prevent a riding mower engine from cranking.

Locate and post up a wiring diagram of your machine? (from the exact model number)
We can then give you some electrical troubleshooting tips.

Click to expand...

Safety switches on mowers are like safeties on a firearm. They are there to protect the manufacturer, the owner, and other people.

When using a ratchet strap to mount a tire on bead, use a hammer to hit the handle to release the load to avoid injury.

Common sense and experience go a long way in life!

Here is a link where you might find manuals and wiring diagram for your Cub Cadet LTX1040 EXACT model number.