LT1046 PTO switch stuck

[LKB]

*<sigh>* “If it’s not one thing, it’s another.”

Thanks to the assistance of folks here, I solved my fuel supply issues on my old LT1046 and last Friday knocked down the thigh-high weds that had grown while it was out of commission. But when I went out this morning to give it a second cut, a new problem kicked up.

Mower started right up, and when in position to start mowing I pulled the PTO switch, and the blades started going as usual. Mowed about 50” and the dropped the deck all the way down to scalp an area. After about 10’, blades were clearly not turning. Stopped mower, checked the mower deck, and found that the belt had come off. Got that back in place, but when I tried to resume mowing, the PTO switch is now stuck in the OFF position — it will not come out more than 1/4.”

Ideas here? What’s the drill on how to test the switch to see if it fried or something? (I do have a multimeter.)

 

[Tiger Small Engine]

*<sigh>* “If it’s not one thing, it’s another.”

Thanks to the assistance of folks here, I solved my fuel supply issues on my old LT1046 and last Friday knocked down the thigh-high weds that had grown while it was out of commission. But when I went out this morning to give it a second cut, a new problem kicked up.

Mower started right up, and when in position to start mowing I pulled the PTO switch, and the blades started going as usual. Mowed about 50” and the dropped the deck all the way down to scalp an area. After about 10’, blades were clearly not turning. Stopped mower, checked the mower deck, and found that the belt had come off. Got that back in place, but when I tried to resume mowing, the PTO switch is now stuck in the OFF position — it will not come out more than 1/4.”

Ideas here? What’s the drill on how to test the switch to see if it fried or something? (I do have a multimeter.)

PTO switch only extends about a 1/4” when working properly. If blades will not turn on, remove and replace PTO switch, or watch Youtube videos on testing switch. Too much to type on testing.

 

[hlw49]

Make sure the wires are connected then test to see if there is current to the clutch. VOA Meter or test light.

 

[StarTech]

Whenever the PTO is non operational before you simply replace the PTO you should the PTO clutch itself. Either by doing an ohms or current draw test. In the ohms is it should measure above 1.7 ohms but not as an open circuit. Under amps draw test it should 5 amps or less as the PTO is rated for 5 amps max.

Also be aware you be wiggling the clutch assy during these tests as a short can be intermittent as in one I just replaced a couple weeks ago during bad bearings.

Then you can test the PTO using following chart. Now this only test the switch continuity and not the associated wiring and connectors.

 

[LKB]

Thanks all. I removed the PTO switch and it was indeed "stuck" in the off position . . . why, I have no idea -- maybe a current surge arced inside the switch and fused the contacts?

If the switch was permanently stuck I'd need to replace it, so before doing that I just applied some muscle / leverage to it, and with a little "pop" it came unstuck. Shot some WD40 followed with compressed air into the innerds of the switch, cycled it a few dozen times, and tested continuity with a multimeter; all A-OK. Reconnected and tested; worked fine, so reinstalled it and mowed away.