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lt1045 cub cade would not startr
#1
E
eskandari_n1
E
eskandari_n1
lt1045 cub cade would not startr. crank oaky . see spark. replace spark plug , ingintion modudel no luck any help will be greate
#2
L
Lawnranger
L
Lawnranger
Probably know this engine need sparkat rite tyme compprsion rite aire rite fule what is misin?
#3
E
eskandari_n1
what are you trying to say? I did not get it.
E
eskandari_n1
Probably know this engine need sparkat rite tyme compprsion rite aire rite fule what is misin?
what are you trying to say? I did not get it.
#4
L
Lawnranger
L
Lawnranger
u probably know this. engine need spark at rite tyme. compprsion. rite amnt aire. rite amnt fuel. what is missin from equazion?
#5
E
eskandari_n1
E
eskandari_n1
so what you saying there may be timing issue. if this is case how do you check timing on small engine.u probably know this. engine need spark at rite tyme. compprsion. rite amnt aire. rite amnt fuel. what is missin from equazion?
#6
L
Lawnranger
L
Lawnranger
im sayin one part of equazion is missin from pictur. u tel me wat u dn't hav. spark at rite tyme? fule? aire? compprsion? wich 1 is missin? make cheks an tel me wat is missin.
#7
E
eskandari_n1
So far I have done the following:
* Verified spark by pulling plug from cylinder, grounding plug to engine, and cranking. Appears to have good spark?? I also replaced the plug.
* Tested the fuel shut-off valve on the carburetor. It appears to be working.
* Verified that the float bowl is full of fuel.
* Replaced Ig module
* check compprsion.
E
eskandari_n1
im sayin one part of equazion is missin from pictur. u tel me wat u dn't hav. spark at rite tyme? fule? aire? compprsion? wich 1 is missin? make cheks an tel me wat is missin.
So far I have done the following:
* Verified spark by pulling plug from cylinder, grounding plug to engine, and cranking. Appears to have good spark?? I also replaced the plug.
* Tested the fuel shut-off valve on the carburetor. It appears to be working.
* Verified that the float bowl is full of fuel.
* Replaced Ig module
* check compprsion.
#8
L
Lawnranger
L
Lawnranger
Ok, good. That helps a lot. It sounds like the engine cranks just fine but will not start. Try a shot of carburetor cleaner (remove air filter first) in the carburetor and crank the engine. If the engine starts and runs for a few seconds, then dies, you most likely have a fuel problem in the carburetor i.e. main jet plugged. Even if you have fuel in the carburetor bowl it may not get past a plugged main jet and that is the reason you use carburetor cleaner - it acts as the fuel. You may also have a sheared flywheel key but lets rule out the most common/obvious reasons first. Since you replaced the spark plug and ignition coil and have good spark we can rule out those parts for now. If you have spark at the right time (flywheel key not sheared), good compression (you checked it but didn't say what p.s.i. you have), the right amount of fuel and the right amount of air, theoretically the engine will start and run properly. If one piece of the above equation is missing the engine will likely not run well or not run at all. We need to find out what is missing and it sounds like fuel, at least for now. So go spray a shot of carburetor cleaner in the carburetor as previously advised and try starting the engine then come back and report your findings.
#9
E
eskandari_n1
E
eskandari_n1
Sorry I forgot to mention I spray start fluid . did not start. I did not measure comprpression. I check it by removing SP and pluge by cloth and start the copmrassion cause to push cloth out.Ok, good. That helps a lot. It sounds like the engine cranks just fine but will not start. Try a shot of carburetor cleaner (remove air filter first) in the carburetor and crank the engine. If the engine starts and runs for a few seconds, then dies, you most likely have a fuel problem in the carburetor i.e. main jet plugged. Even if you have fuel in the carburetor bowl it may not get past a plugged main jet and that is the reason you use carburetor cleaner - it acts as the fuel. You may also have a sheared flywheel key but lets rule out the most common/obvious reasons first. Since you replaced the spark plug and ignition coil and have good spark we can rule out those parts for now. If you have spark at the right time (flywheel key not sheared), good compression (you checked it but didn't say what p.s.i. you have), the right amount of fuel and the right amount of air, theoretically the engine will start and run properly. If one piece of the above equation is missing the engine will likely not run well or not run at all. We need to find out what is missing and it sounds like fuel, at least for now. So go spray a shot of carburetor cleaner in the carburetor as previously advised and try starting the engine then come back and report your findings.
#10
L
Lawnranger
In that case I would pull the flywheel off and check for a sheared key. I've been working on a Briggs engine that shears the flywheel key and technical assistance says there is a new flywheel key to prevent this problem. I can't say for sure that is your problem but you are the eyes and hands and will have to dig a little deeper. Like I said in my previous post, if you have spark at the right time, good compression, and proper air/fuel ratio, theoretically the engine should start and run.
Since you have spark and compression (at least some compression) and added supplemental fuel (starting fluid) and the engine did not start, it is leading me to believe that the spark is off time. Did the engine happen to backfire through the intake or exhaust by any chance?
L
Lawnranger
Sorry I forgot to mention I spray start fluid . did not start. I did not measure comprpression. I check it by removing SP and pluge by cloth and start the copmrassion cause to push cloth out.
In that case I would pull the flywheel off and check for a sheared key. I've been working on a Briggs engine that shears the flywheel key and technical assistance says there is a new flywheel key to prevent this problem. I can't say for sure that is your problem but you are the eyes and hands and will have to dig a little deeper. Like I said in my previous post, if you have spark at the right time, good compression, and proper air/fuel ratio, theoretically the engine should start and run.
Since you have spark and compression (at least some compression) and added supplemental fuel (starting fluid) and the engine did not start, it is leading me to believe that the spark is off time. Did the engine happen to backfire through the intake or exhaust by any chance?
#11
E
eskandari_n1
thank, Lawnranger. one question.if flywheel key is sheared. there should be no compression. is it correct statment?
E
eskandari_n1
In that case I would pull the flywheel off and check for a sheared key. I've been working on a Briggs engine that shears the flywheel key and technical assistance says there is a new flywheel key to prevent this problem. I can't say for sure that is your problem but you are the eyes and hands and will have to dig a little deeper. Like I said in my previous post, if you have spark at the right time, good compression, and proper air/fuel ratio, theoretically the engine should start and run.
Since you have spark and compression (at least some compression) and added supplemental fuel (starting fluid) and the engine did not start, it is leading me to believe that the spark is off time. Did the engine happen to backfire through the intake or exhaust by any chance?
thank, Lawnranger. one question.if flywheel key is sheared. there should be no compression. is it correct statment?
#12
L
Lawnranger
No. The flywheel has a magnet mounted in it and as the flywheel spins the magnet passes the ignition coil which creates an electric field that induces the spark. If the flywheel position moves in relation to the crankshaft (sheared key), the ignition timing will be off but the valve timing is still on so you will still have compression even though the flywheel may have moved on the crankshaft.
Remove the blower housing and related parts so you can look straight down the center of the crankshaft with the flywheel still attached and see if the crankshaft key way is or isn't lined up with the flywheel key way.
L
Lawnranger
thank, Lawnranger. one question.if flywheel key is sheared. there should be no compression. is it correct statment?
No. The flywheel has a magnet mounted in it and as the flywheel spins the magnet passes the ignition coil which creates an electric field that induces the spark. If the flywheel position moves in relation to the crankshaft (sheared key), the ignition timing will be off but the valve timing is still on so you will still have compression even though the flywheel may have moved on the crankshaft.
Remove the blower housing and related parts so you can look straight down the center of the crankshaft with the flywheel still attached and see if the crankshaft key way is or isn't lined up with the flywheel key way.
#13
L
Lawnranger
By the way, you never answered my question
L
Lawnranger
In that case I would pull the flywheel off and check for a sheared key. I've been working on a Briggs engine that shears the flywheel key and technical assistance says there is a new flywheel key to prevent this problem. I can't say for sure that is your problem but you are the eyes and hands and will have to dig a little deeper. Like I said in my previous post, if you have spark at the right time, good compression, and proper air/fuel ratio, theoretically the engine should start and run.
Since you have spark and compression (at least some compression) and added supplemental fuel (starting fluid) and the engine did not start, it is leading me to believe that the spark is off time. Did the engine happen to backfire through the intake or exhaust by any chance?
By the way, you never answered my question
#14
E
eskandari_n1
I am sorry what the question What was the questuion?
I will check tonite when I go home.
Also do I need set piston on any postion before I key the flywheel.
E
eskandari_n1
By the way, you never answered my question
I am sorry what the question What was the questuion?
I will check tonite when I go home.
Also do I need set piston on any postion before I key the flywheel.
#15
E
eskandari_n1
Did the engine happen to backfire through the intake or exhaust by any chance? no
E
eskandari_n1
In that case I would pull the flywheel off and check for a sheared key. I've been working on a Briggs engine that shears the flywheel key and technical assistance says there is a new flywheel key to prevent this problem. I can't say for sure that is your problem but you are the eyes and hands and will have to dig a little deeper. Like I said in my previous post, if you have spark at the right time, good compression, and proper air/fuel ratio, theoretically the engine should start and run.
Since you have spark and compression (at least some compression) and added supplemental fuel (starting fluid) and the engine did not start, it is leading me to believe that the spark is off time. Did the engine happen to backfire through the intake or exhaust by any chance?
Did the engine happen to backfire through the intake or exhaust by any chance? no
#16
L
Lawnranger
Just remove the blower housing and starter clutch (if applicable) or nut that holds the flywheel on and look straight down on the crankshaft. You will find a key way on the crank and on the flywheel. Both key ways should line up and if they don't you have to replace the key.
L
Lawnranger
Also do I need set piston on any postion before I key the flywheel.
Just remove the blower housing and starter clutch (if applicable) or nut that holds the flywheel on and look straight down on the crankshaft. You will find a key way on the crank and on the flywheel. Both key ways should line up and if they don't you have to replace the key.
#17
E
eskandari_n1
Lawnrenger, key was okay I took flywheel out clean dust an magnito , install it back. no luck. the only thing I forgot to do check mannito under flywheel for countinuty.
E
eskandari_n1
Just remove the blower housing and starter clutch (if applicable) or nut that holds the flywheel on and look straight down on the crankshaft. You will find a key way on the crank and on the flywheel. Both key ways should line up and if they don't you have to replace the key.
Lawnrenger, key was okay I took flywheel out clean dust an magnito , install it back. no luck. the only thing I forgot to do check mannito under flywheel for countinuty.
#18
L
Lawnranger
Well now, you have an engine that gets fuel, has spark, has some compression (but we don't know how much) and still won't start. Something is missing. Something is missing. Something is missing. Put on your detective hat and start looking for what is missing. You are the eyes and hands of the situation and all I can go on is what you tell me. I have given you the probable causes of why your engine won't start but still something is missing - what can it be?
The engine needs the correct air/fuel ratio, spark at the right time and compression to start so what is missing from your picture - you are the eyes and hands and will have to tell me what is missing. Maybe it's time you go out and purchase a real compression gauge. Your engine has spark, and now you verified it is in time, plus you sprayed starting fluid in the carburetor and it still won't start. That leaves one part of the equation unanswered. Can you tell me what part is missing???
L
Lawnranger
Lawnrenger, key was okay I took flywheel out clean dust an magnito , install it back. no luck. the only thing I forgot to do check mannito under flywheel for countinuty.
Well now, you have an engine that gets fuel, has spark, has some compression (but we don't know how much) and still won't start. Something is missing. Something is missing. Something is missing. Put on your detective hat and start looking for what is missing. You are the eyes and hands of the situation and all I can go on is what you tell me. I have given you the probable causes of why your engine won't start but still something is missing - what can it be?
The engine needs the correct air/fuel ratio, spark at the right time and compression to start so what is missing from your picture - you are the eyes and hands and will have to tell me what is missing. Maybe it's time you go out and purchase a real compression gauge. Your engine has spark, and now you verified it is in time, plus you sprayed starting fluid in the carburetor and it still won't start. That leaves one part of the equation unanswered. Can you tell me what part is missing???
#19
E
eskandari_n1
Lawnranger, what compration should be 20hp engine. I am getting compration gauge? how does gas souck in to engin from carbrator
E
eskandari_n1
Well now, you have an engine that gets fuel, has spark, has some compression (but we don't know how much) and still won't start. Something is missing. Something is missing. Something is missing. Put on your detective hat and start looking for what is missing. You are the eyes and hands of the situation and all I can go on is what you tell me. I have given you the probable causes of why your engine won't start but still something is missing - what can it be?
The engine needs the correct air/fuel ratio, spark at the right time and compression to start so what is missing from your picture - you are the eyes and hands and will have to tell me what is missing. Maybe it's time you go out and purchase a real compression gauge. Your engine has spark, and now you verified it is in time, plus you sprayed starting fluid in the carburetor and it still won't start. That leaves one part of the equation unanswered. Can you tell me what part is missing???
Lawnranger, what compration should be 20hp engine. I am getting compration gauge? how does gas souck in to engin from carbrator
#20
L
Lawnranger
This should help all of us:
Since this is a help forum, it is only fair that the people trying to answer questions have some information to work with, so they can give an accurate answer. This helps them if they need to research parts or service information on your engine or equipment. In the first part of your post please include your engine numbers from the ID tag or stamping and the equipment type and model numbers that are on it. Failure to do this may result in you not receiving any accurate help with your problem.
When this forum first started it was much smaller and it was common practice to post some information about the unit along with the question, but we've had a lot of new people join lately who seem to overlook this important step about posting.
Many of the tech's that hang out here work in or have their own shops and the first thing they do when they make up a work order on a unit is include the engine and equipment numbers on the work order. Since this technical forum is offered free to the public, it's the least we can ask you to do, so please help all of us out. So please post the numbers, it should be the first thing you write before beginning your question.
"Lawnranger, what compration should be 20hp engine. I am getting compration gauge? how does gas souck in to engin from carbrator"
compration should be 20hp engine good compration at least hunred lb. "I am getting compration gaug?" sound like you dont know if you gonna git compration gage wit quetion mrk gas git souck in by jat in carbrator
L
Lawnranger
Lawnranger, what compration should be 20hp engine. I am getting compration gauge? how does gas souck in to engin from carbrator
This should help all of us:
Since this is a help forum, it is only fair that the people trying to answer questions have some information to work with, so they can give an accurate answer. This helps them if they need to research parts or service information on your engine or equipment. In the first part of your post please include your engine numbers from the ID tag or stamping and the equipment type and model numbers that are on it. Failure to do this may result in you not receiving any accurate help with your problem.
When this forum first started it was much smaller and it was common practice to post some information about the unit along with the question, but we've had a lot of new people join lately who seem to overlook this important step about posting.
Many of the tech's that hang out here work in or have their own shops and the first thing they do when they make up a work order on a unit is include the engine and equipment numbers on the work order. Since this technical forum is offered free to the public, it's the least we can ask you to do, so please help all of us out. So please post the numbers, it should be the first thing you write before beginning your question.
"Lawnranger, what compration should be 20hp engine. I am getting compration gauge? how does gas souck in to engin from carbrator"
compration should be 20hp engine good compration at least hunred lb. "I am getting compration gaug?" sound like you dont know if you gonna git compration gage wit quetion mrk gas git souck in by jat in carbrator
#21
N
Nelson_Donnell
N
Nelson_Donnell
OK, so far you've stated that you have done the following:
* Verified spark by pulling plug from cylinder, grounding plug to engine, and cranking. Appears to have good spark. You also replaced the plug.
* Tested the fuel shut-off valve on the carburetor. It appears to be working.
* Verified that the float bowl is full of fuel.
* Replaced Ignition module
* check compression.
I don't know why you replaced the ignition module, you have indicated that the engine does provide a good spark on rotation of the engine. My question is, was the engine running and then suddenly stopped running on its own and won't restart now or did this problem arise after the machine sat around for a while without being run for several weeks or months?
Also, by what means did you determine if the electromagnetic fuel shut-off valve is working properly? Can you hear it mechanically clicking on and off (opening and closing) when you energize it? You may have a defective shut-off valve or a plugged main jet or both.
Have you finally put a compression gauge on it yet and if you have, with full throttle open and cranking engine over, how any pounds of compression does the gauge indicate?
* Verified spark by pulling plug from cylinder, grounding plug to engine, and cranking. Appears to have good spark. You also replaced the plug.
* Tested the fuel shut-off valve on the carburetor. It appears to be working.
* Verified that the float bowl is full of fuel.
* Replaced Ignition module
* check compression.
I don't know why you replaced the ignition module, you have indicated that the engine does provide a good spark on rotation of the engine. My question is, was the engine running and then suddenly stopped running on its own and won't restart now or did this problem arise after the machine sat around for a while without being run for several weeks or months?
Also, by what means did you determine if the electromagnetic fuel shut-off valve is working properly? Can you hear it mechanically clicking on and off (opening and closing) when you energize it? You may have a defective shut-off valve or a plugged main jet or both.
Have you finally put a compression gauge on it yet and if you have, with full throttle open and cranking engine over, how any pounds of compression does the gauge indicate?