Lawnboy mower has hard time cranking

wire5

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I'm currently working on a mower for a friend and I'm stumped so I checked out this site.

The mower was running fine 2 months ago when the blade struck a metal pipe in the ground and stalled out. Since than it hasn't started. I've cleaned the filter, replaced the fuel, checked the carb, and replaced the oil however it still has a hard time cranking. I managed to get it to run for 30 seconds once before it stalled out. Than I got it to run for about 5 seconds before i turned it off (the oil had just been drained so it could be replaced) but there was no oil so I cut it out. Any ideas or suggestions
 

Two-Stroke

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Need the model number... a photo might help if you can't find that.
 

chance123

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If you hit a pipe, I can almost guarentee your flywheel key is sheared
 

wire5

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Yeah, thats what I boiled it down to by the end of the day. The model number is 10642 by the way. I appreciate every thing thus far.
 

Two-Stroke

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I agree that there's a high probability that the flywheel key is sheared -- but that's actually good because it's a cheap part that protects much more expensive parts.

I'd check for a bent crankshaft before putting time or money into it -- if that's the case, the mower probably isn't worth fixing. :mad:
 

wire5

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I'm pretty sure its not the crankshaft. It wasn't shaky when I managed to fire it up nor did it really sound like that was the problem. Unfortunately its raining today so I won't have a chance to check the fly wheel & Key. I know the top part of the fly wheel isn't damaged.
 

snapsstorer

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even if the crank is not shaky, it may be bent. if you can find a flat level place, loosen the blade bolt enough to turn the blade(if possible) and check the distance at 8 points around the rotation of it. if they are not within about a 32nd of a inch it may be bent. it should be even all the way around.
 

chance123

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If there is no vibration, you're fine. Checking the blade in different positions, will give a false reading. "MOST" if not all mowers have a pitch built in the design of their decks. The front of the deck is/should always be "lower" than the rear. The reason for this is to give a clean cut. If the mower blade(s) were parallel to the turf, it would tend to whip the grass. This is not just my opinion, it is documented in many manufacturers notes
 

sonnydays40

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Let me repeat a post from another thread that might just get you the help you need. Please follow it.


Since this is a help forum, it is only fair that the people trying to answer questions have some information to work with, so they can give an accurate answer. This helps them if they need to research parts or service information on your engine or equipment. In the first part of your post please include your engine numbers from the ID tag or stamping and the equipment type and model numbers that are on it. Failure to do this may result in you not receiving any accurate help with your problem.

Many of the tech's that hang out here work in or have there own shops and the first thing they do when they make up a work order on a unit is include the engine and equipment numbers on the work order. Since this technical forum is offered free to the public, it's the least we can ask you to do, so please help all of us out. *So please post the numbers in the new topic you start to ask your question. It should be the first thing you write before beginning your question. :D
 

wire5

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Sonnydays40 I actually did post the model number, however in a later post.

Lawn-Boy - Walk Behind Mower, Insight Self Propelled Model 10682

I went ahead and provided a direct link to the mower on the lawn-boy website. The bag is not attached but otherwise this is the same mower. I also pulled the caging around the exhaust just so it's easier to work with.
 
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