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Lawnboy 10323 still surges after cleaning
#1
S
stilllearning6
S
stilllearning6
Cleaned carb 3x in past2 weeks .
Last time, used a wire tie to spin within the idle jet and the main jet/nozzle.
Used one can carb cleaner on the carb body , used compressed air in each orifice.
Float seemed intact. Ran tie wire everywhere that I could.
Re-used original 2 gaskets on each side of shield. They looked very good, clean , pliable.
Used 1500 grit paper to polish heat shield which had discolored spots--> clean smooth shiny.
Not confident in correctly re-assembling governor spring on the right tension .
Is there a correct method?
I did not remove the spring /change the spring dial .
I did disconnect the governor spring from the carb body to disassemble carb body.
Is it possible to over tension / under tension unless you reset the dial ?
Hoping you can tell me that the governor spring was set incorrectly and keeps RPM low.
Used firm torque on 2 carb bolts- seems like air-tight fit.
Did not spray gasket areas while running engine.
Engine seems AOK at idle ( perhaps slight surge) -- but :
engine will not develop high enough RPM under throttle and surges while off idle RPM.
I cannot believe that this carb cannot be fixed.
3x cleaned idle jet , main jet , filter around main jet.
What is the trick?
Last time, used a wire tie to spin within the idle jet and the main jet/nozzle.
Used one can carb cleaner on the carb body , used compressed air in each orifice.
Float seemed intact. Ran tie wire everywhere that I could.
Re-used original 2 gaskets on each side of shield. They looked very good, clean , pliable.
Used 1500 grit paper to polish heat shield which had discolored spots--> clean smooth shiny.
Not confident in correctly re-assembling governor spring on the right tension .
Is there a correct method?
I did not remove the spring /change the spring dial .
I did disconnect the governor spring from the carb body to disassemble carb body.
Is it possible to over tension / under tension unless you reset the dial ?
Hoping you can tell me that the governor spring was set incorrectly and keeps RPM low.
Used firm torque on 2 carb bolts- seems like air-tight fit.
Did not spray gasket areas while running engine.
Engine seems AOK at idle ( perhaps slight surge) -- but :
engine will not develop high enough RPM under throttle and surges while off idle RPM.
I cannot believe that this carb cannot be fixed.
3x cleaned idle jet , main jet , filter around main jet.
What is the trick?
#2
B
bjl8691
B
bjl8691
Ok the best way to do this is take the carb apart wash all plastic parts (gas tank to get all the crap out) like you would dishes in dish soap in a sink rinse and dry soak all the metal parts in a bucket of chemp dip carb and parts cleaner change the pilot jet with a briggs and stratton pilot jet part#801308 now the governor spring tension is hard to explain best way to adjust it is while its running and clicking the dial until you get it the speed you want it would make everything easy if you had a tachometer to help while adjusting its a good I dea to add filter material under the primer bulb and add a inline fuel filter and shut off valve I use a 90 degree briggs valve and briggs lawn tractor fuel filter
#3
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
First if you have not done so I would replace the float needle and seat. Second I have attached to manual which talk about carb and governor adjustments. I know that they are not for your exact carb, but very close. Should get you going and you can tweak the carb to get it running smooth.
https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/acrobat/manuals/lball23.pdf
https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/acrobat/manuals/lball14.pdf
https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/acrobat/manuals/lball23.pdf
https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/acrobat/manuals/lball14.pdf
#4
impalass
impalass
Did you check the reed valve.Cleaned carb 3x in past2 weeks .
Last time, used a wire tie to spin within the idle jet and the main jet/nozzle.
Used one can carb cleaner on the carb body , used compressed air in each orifice.
Float seemed intact. Ran tie wire everywhere that I could.
Re-used original 2 gaskets on each side of shield. They looked very good, clean , pliable.
Used 1500 grit paper to polish heat shield which had discolored spots--> clean smooth shiny.
Not confident in correctly re-assembling governor spring on the right tension .
Is there a correct method?
I did not remove the spring /change the spring dial .
I did disconnect the governor spring from the carb body to disassemble carb body.
Is it possible to over tension / under tension unless you reset the dial ?
Hoping you can tell me that the governor spring was set incorrectly and keeps RPM low.
Used firm torque on 2 carb bolts- seems like air-tight fit.
Did not spray gasket areas while running engine.
Engine seems AOK at idle ( perhaps slight surge) -- but :
engine will not develop high enough RPM under throttle and surges while off idle RPM.
I cannot believe that this carb cannot be fixed.
3x cleaned idle jet , main jet , filter around main jet.
What is the trick?
#5
impalass
http://www.biodsl.com/fsm/Duraforce_Service_Manual.pdf
impalass
Cleaned carb 3x in past2 weeks .
Last time, used a wire tie to spin within the idle jet and the main jet/nozzle.
Used one can carb cleaner on the carb body , used compressed air in each orifice.
Float seemed intact. Ran tie wire everywhere that I could.
Re-used original 2 gaskets on each side of shield. They looked very good, clean , pliable.
Used 1500 grit paper to polish heat shield which had discolored spots--> clean smooth shiny.
Not confident in correctly re-assembling governor spring on the right tension .
Is there a correct method?
I did not remove the spring /change the spring dial .
I did disconnect the governor spring from the carb body to disassemble carb body.
Is it possible to over tension / under tension unless you reset the dial ?
Hoping you can tell me that the governor spring was set incorrectly and keeps RPM low.
Used firm torque on 2 carb bolts- seems like air-tight fit.
Did not spray gasket areas while running engine.
Engine seems AOK at idle ( perhaps slight surge) -- but :
engine will not develop high enough RPM under throttle and surges while off idle RPM.
I cannot believe that this carb cannot be fixed.
3x cleaned idle jet , main jet , filter around main jet.
What is the trick?
http://www.biodsl.com/fsm/Duraforce_Service_Manual.pdf
#6
EngineMan
EngineMan
Did you take out the idle jet from the carb before you cleaned it..?
#7
S
stilllearning6
S
stilllearning6
Thanks all for your comments .
More info :
Yes, I soaked the carb body in cleaner / gas several times in an attempt to remove varnish from orifices.
On the 3rd cleaning, I poked a tie wire in every orifice that I could find and used compressed air to blow out the carb body, idle jet, high speed main jet / nozzle . Poked wire through the high speed nozzle side holes and down the middle too. Blew with compressed air.
Yes, I removed the idle/pilot jet from the left side of carb body before cleaning both the carb body and the idle /pilot jet.
Poked with wire, blew compressed air.
No, I did not upgrade the left side idle /pilot jet to a larger jet.
It was my opinion that if the idle did not surge, then the idle circuit was fairly clean/ functional.
I seem to be getting a prominent surging issue in the high speed circuit which does not rev enough ; I think starving for fuel.
I understand the gummed -up idle jet circuit concept , just not feel sure that it is idle circuit related.
You may be correct though. I can be mistaken.
No, I did not swap the needle/seat under the float bowl.
A previous Lawnboy had a severe fuel leak at the needle/seat.
I replaced that needle and still had a severe leak.
Did not swap that original seat. I installed a shut-off valve/filter in that mower.
No, I did not touch the reed valve.
Can you educate me on this?
Plan to focus on governor and air leak at gasket next time out.
I appreciate all your comments and hope to master this LawnBoy
More info :
Yes, I soaked the carb body in cleaner / gas several times in an attempt to remove varnish from orifices.
On the 3rd cleaning, I poked a tie wire in every orifice that I could find and used compressed air to blow out the carb body, idle jet, high speed main jet / nozzle . Poked wire through the high speed nozzle side holes and down the middle too. Blew with compressed air.
Yes, I removed the idle/pilot jet from the left side of carb body before cleaning both the carb body and the idle /pilot jet.
Poked with wire, blew compressed air.
No, I did not upgrade the left side idle /pilot jet to a larger jet.
It was my opinion that if the idle did not surge, then the idle circuit was fairly clean/ functional.
I seem to be getting a prominent surging issue in the high speed circuit which does not rev enough ; I think starving for fuel.
I understand the gummed -up idle jet circuit concept , just not feel sure that it is idle circuit related.
You may be correct though. I can be mistaken.
No, I did not swap the needle/seat under the float bowl.
A previous Lawnboy had a severe fuel leak at the needle/seat.
I replaced that needle and still had a severe leak.
Did not swap that original seat. I installed a shut-off valve/filter in that mower.
No, I did not touch the reed valve.
Can you educate me on this?
Plan to focus on governor and air leak at gasket next time out.
I appreciate all your comments and hope to master this LawnBoy
#8
impalass
I was wrong, this engine does not have a reed valve.
impalass
\Thanks all for your comments .
More info :
Yes, I soaked the carb body in cleaner / gas several times in an attempt to remove varnish from orifices.
On the 3rd cleaning, I poked a tie wire in every orifice that I could find and used compressed air to blow out the carb body, idle jet, high speed main jet / nozzle . Poked wire through the high speed nozzle side holes and down the middle too. Blew with compressed air.
Yes, I removed the idle/pilot jet from the left side of carb body before cleaning both the carb body and the idle /pilot jet.
Poked with wire, blew compressed air.
No, I did not upgrade the left side idle /pilot jet to a larger jet.
It was my opinion that if the idle did not surge, then the idle circuit was fairly clean/ functional.
I seem to be getting a prominent surging issue in the high speed circuit which does not rev enough ; I think starving for fuel.
I understand the gummed -up idle jet circuit concept , just not feel sure that it is idle circuit related.
You may be correct though. I can be mistaken.
No, I did not swap the needle/seat under the float bowl.
A previous Lawnboy had a severe fuel leak at the needle/seat.
I replaced that needle and still had a severe leak.
Did not swap that original seat. I installed a shut-off valve/filter in that mower.
No, I did not touch the reed valve.
Can you educate me on this?
Plan to focus on governor and air leak at gasket next time out.
I appreciate all your comments and hope to master this LawnBoy
I was wrong, this engine does not have a reed valve.
#9
S
stilllearning6
S
stilllearning6
The following copy/paste came from the link that was posted by Impalass which talks about the governor set-up.
Thank you Impalass.
-----------------------------------------------------------
Presetting the Governor (DuraForce Engines Only)
Note: Each click of the governor collar represents approximately 50-75 RPMs.
1. Turn the collar clockwise to increase spring tension (and engine RPMs) or counterclockwise to decrease spring tension and RPMs. (See Figure 39.) Preset the governor collar 3 or 4 clicks clockwise.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
In spite of these detailed instructions, I have failed to see how to turn the collar clockwise.
I want to permit more RPM's as the air vane is being forced to dictate a low RPM even with throttle cable on fast rabbit speed.
When I manually force the air vane to the far right , the RPM increases dramatically.
I can put my finger on the collar and would like to make it click 3 or 4 clicks.
Is this adjustment done with the carb/ air vane assembly still attached to the engine ?
Thank you Impalass.
-----------------------------------------------------------
Presetting the Governor (DuraForce Engines Only)
Note: Each click of the governor collar represents approximately 50-75 RPMs.
1. Turn the collar clockwise to increase spring tension (and engine RPMs) or counterclockwise to decrease spring tension and RPMs. (See Figure 39.) Preset the governor collar 3 or 4 clicks clockwise.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
In spite of these detailed instructions, I have failed to see how to turn the collar clockwise.
I want to permit more RPM's as the air vane is being forced to dictate a low RPM even with throttle cable on fast rabbit speed.
When I manually force the air vane to the far right , the RPM increases dramatically.
I can put my finger on the collar and would like to make it click 3 or 4 clicks.
Is this adjustment done with the carb/ air vane assembly still attached to the engine ?
#10
impalass
The easy way is to remove the carb then turn the wheel clockwise a couple clicks then you know how much pressure it takes to turn the wheel. Then reinstalled the carb and do the final adjustment. I always turn the wheel when the engine is stopped. If you have a tach the manual says 3000 rpm is the max.
After you reinstall the carb make sure that your throttle cable is adjusted properly. If you don't have a tach you can buy one from china from 8 to 10 dollars depending on the seller. I bought one and i am happy with it.
impalass
The following copy/paste came from the link that was posted by Impalass which talks about the governor set-up.
Thank you Impalass.
-----------------------------------------------------------
Presetting the Governor (DuraForce Engines Only)
Note: Each click of the governor collar represents approximately 50-75 RPMs.
1. Turn the collar clockwise to increase spring tension (and engine RPMs) or counterclockwise to decrease spring tension and RPMs. (See Figure 39.) Preset the governor collar 3 or 4 clicks clockwise.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
In spite of these detailed instructions, I have failed to see how to turn the collar clockwise.
I want to permit more RPM's as the air vane is being forced to dictate a low RPM even with throttle cable on fast rabbit speed.
When I manually force the air vane to the far right , the RPM increases dramatically.
I can put my finger on the collar and would like to make it click 3 or 4 clicks.
Is this adjustment done with the carb/ air vane assembly still attached to the engine ?
The easy way is to remove the carb then turn the wheel clockwise a couple clicks then you know how much pressure it takes to turn the wheel. Then reinstalled the carb and do the final adjustment. I always turn the wheel when the engine is stopped. If you have a tach the manual says 3000 rpm is the max.
After you reinstall the carb make sure that your throttle cable is adjusted properly. If you don't have a tach you can buy one from china from 8 to 10 dollars depending on the seller. I bought one and i am happy with it.