Here's the trouble. When you put ignition key to on you can hear a little "click" noise, but when you try to start, nothing. Even the starter solenoid did not make a noise. I can make the engine to turn by jumping battery cable to the positive starter probe, but will never fired up! I check the spark plug and no spark at both of them. Parking brake switch engage, pto off. Seems to be a safety switch not working or something else... Enough battery. any ideas ?
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
LA 135 won't start.
- Thread starter steve650
- Start date
More options
Export threadMay be this will help.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Thanks for the quick reply. will try some test tomorow, don't have test light and volmeter, I will bring one from the job. Correct me if I'm wrong, but when you talk about the seat safety switch, you don't need to sit on the seat to start the engine if the park brake is engaged, right ? Fuse is not blown, i try it the the fuse box in my car. Think again its either a safety swith or key swith issue, if I jumped the starter the engine crank but not start. (check for spark and nothing). Just don't know how to test the park brake switch. It as a 4 wire connector, and don't know wich one to jumped to by pass the switch. Don't have a shematic but if I go with the logic, probably that 2 wires is for the seat switch and 2 other is for the park brake itself. To start the engine, only one of these switch need to be in closed position (switch fully pressed) right? As for the PTO switch, should you be able to start the engine when the PTO is engage, and both park brake switch and seat switch are fully pressed (closed position) ?.
P.S. When I say a switch its in closed position, I mean the switch is closing the electrical circuit, making the a device to work (a light for example)
P.S. When I say a switch its in closed position, I mean the switch is closing the electrical circuit, making the a device to work (a light for example)
On most, but not all, units you don't have to be on the seat if the parking brake is on. Remember, one of the mistakes mechanics make when testing electrical problems, is that they start assuming certain parts or connections are good and don't test them. PTO switch must be off (open) for the engine to start. Please go through all the tests and report back. Also, include the model numbers for both the unit and engine.
SeniorCitizen
Lawn Addict
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2010
- Threads
- 132
- Messages
- 2,180
I have a LA135 LE and it has a manual PTO lever so I'm assuming the stuck switch was the safety switch and not an electric PTO switch . Is that correct ?Problem solved! PTO switch was stuck to the "on" position. Change the switch and like new.
Thanks