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Battery pushing 12.56amps. With the meter I see 12.56 also at the first post of the solenoid with no key in ignition. I have continuity throughout. Installed new solenoid, new ignition switch. Still getting nothing. No click. Double-checked the ground on the solenoid. 4 post solenoid. Two small wires, one white and one black. I mixed them up and forgot original position. Does it matter? Noticed #20 fuse. Looks ok. Now I have no idea what to do next.

Try this troubleshooting procedure, which I use.

Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.

1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Check and make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.

Thanks! I'll work on it Saturday.

Ok, here's what I got. This test is with a new ignition switch and new solenoid.
1. Checked auto type 20a fuse. It's good. Cleaned all battery connections and applied dielectric grease to terminals. Voltage is 12.64v Chassis ground cleaned and sanded paint off frame for good contact.
2. Power is good to large terminal on solenoid. 12.62v
3. No power to either small terminal on brand new solenoid. Did same test on old solenoid. Same results. 0.00v
4. No power to second large terminal on the solenoid. 0.00v
5, No power to starter. 0.00v
6. Checked for continuity from negative terminal on battery to ground. Good.

I did initially remove the metallic clip inside the terminal that goes to the seat kill switch. I did the above test with the switch disabled and with the kill switch enabled. Same results.

It might be easier if we knew mower you are working (model number from serial number tag).

First do you have a small wire on the terminal on the switch where the battery is connected? This wire supplies current to the key switch? If yes and if I’m working on this unit the next thing I would do is check for power 12VDC at the key switch, B terminal. If yes, do you have power at the S terminal on the key switch, when the key is turned to the start position? If yes, you have a safety switch not working. If no, you have the wrong or bad key switch.

Sorry or the delay, I had a teaching gig to complete. So, the last time I followed your instructions I was checking everything and becoming more confident with the meter. For some reason, as I was checking continuity I decided to re-check the fuse. Sure enough it was burnt out. My cataract ridden eyes did not notice. I promptly replaced the fuse, jumped on quickly and turned the key and it turned over! I did not leave it on long as I did not want the smell to get up into the house. Next day, I went to start it again, but it would not start. Checked the fuse and it was blown again. Replaced the fuse and what I would hear upon turning the key was the fuel solenoid click once and then the fuse would blow again. So, I'm assuming I have a short somewhere that I need to locate. A question...does it matter if the two small wires that are connected to the solenoid are switched? One is black, the other white. I may have switched them, and do not remember the original order. I will have time to work on it this week. Again, thank you for your help and patience.

robb123 said:

A question...does it matter if the two small wires that are connected to the solenoid are switched? One is black, the other white. I may have switched them, and do not remember the original order. I will have time to work on it this week. Again, thank you for your help and patience.

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It shouldn’t matter how those two wires are hooked up. Unplug the regulator and put in a new fuse. See if it still blows with the regulator unplugged. If the fuse still blows, you probably have a shorted stator.