kohler 18 hp magnum on cub cadet 1862. ignition module problems. replaced original module due to shutting down when hot. worked fine almost a whole season. must pull the engine to get to the module. Started acting the same way. pulled the engine and cleaned the flywheel magnet and the module surfaces and put it back together. I am cutting about two acres. after the second cutting it shut down again. would like to know if the module would go bad that quick and if there would be any difference in the manufacturer of the modules as there are various prices for the modules #5258402s
Modules contain semiconductor parts (transistors etc) subject to heat failure. The pedigree of these little parts is important as the cheaper ones will fail at lower temperatures. For that reason I would stay with well known, "branded" modules. The chinese are very good at cloning cheap parts of all kinds. Also make sure your machine is clean so the cooling fans and finned surfaces can draw away heat. Module should make good contact , and, if required, use heat sink paste on the seating surface. Radio shack (RIP) used to sell little tubes of the paste.
Heat sink paste has metallic particles to transmit heat. Do not use this is the mfgr does not specify it. I am familiar with it on some GM cars. In the Fiero the ignition module has a metal base plate which should be lightly coated. That module is a high failure item. It sits on a coolant cooled V6 stuck behind the driver, out of the air flow. I lost several of these when living in LA, even with the paste. GM put a little fan and snorkel in the trunk to blow air on the distributor, but it still failed. When I moved north no more problems. The reason (poor ole) Radio Shack carried this is for the hobbyist who needed to keep his transistors and integrated circuits cool, below the failure temperatures. (Why the lecture...only to again emphasize the need to keep AC engines running as cool as possible in their expected temp range).
