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I have installed a new Kohler EZT740-3022, 25 hp fuel injected engine in a Deere LX173. The original engine was a Kohler CV15. Mechanically everything has been modified and the new engine is installed in the tractor, including the ability to close the modified hood.

I have run into the challenge of how to wire the Deere’s 4 pin “W2 Engine Wiring Harness” connector to mate with the new Kohler’s 6 pin connector.

I purchased a matching male connector to the Kohler 6 pin connector to replace the original Deere 4 pin “Engine Wiring Harness” connector. I thought I understood the wiring diagram; I had the Deere white Ignition Module wire pin opposite the Kohler white wire, engine wouldn't start and I realized the Kohler white wire was going to Diagonistic Connector. It seems that 3 of the Deere wires are a simple match to 3 of the Kohler pins to mate together. The big challenge seems to be what to do with the Deere #940 white wire that went to the original single cylinder ignition module.

The Kohler has the following 6 pin wire connector from the engine: [Information from page 36 EFI System in the Service Manual]
#1 pin empty
#2 pin-white wire leads to diagnostic connector
#3 pin- black wire leads to Malfunction Indicator Lamp, MIL (installed MIL in dash on Deere)
#4 pin- red/white wire leads to ignition switch
#5 pin- green wire leads to oil pressure sentry sensor, this engine does not have an oil sentry on it.
#6 pin- dark blue wire leads to starter

The Deere has the following wires: (numbers are from Deere Service Manual wiring layout; the first 4 wires were in the original Deere 4 wire “W2 Engine Wiring Harness” connector that mated to the original Kohler CV15 engine)
1) #205- red wire, key switch
2) #416- yellow/black wire, fuel shut-off for carb solenoid
3) #620- tan wire, engine oil sentry
4) #940- white wire, ignition module

#721- purple/while wire, starter motor (this wire had a separate connector to the original Kohler CV15 engine starter)

It seems that the following 4 wires mate together, the wires have pinned to correspond to the new Kohler engine connector:
Deere # 205, key switch would mate to the Kohler #4 pin to the ignition switch
Deere # 620, engine oil sentry would mate to the Kohler #5 pin to the oil sentry (may add the oil sentry later)
Deere #721, starter motor wire would mate to the Kohler #6 pin to the starter
New wire to mate with from Kohler #3 pin to the MIL, Malfunction Indicator Lamp installed on dash

The question is where should the Deere #940 white wire for the ignition module connect to? I tried the white wires but had no success, that is when I realized the Kohler white wire fed directly to the Diagnostic Connection. Is the Deere #416 fuel shut-off solenoid wire necessary to connect to the new EFI engine or is this now to be clipped and abandoned?

We live on an off-grid remote ranch in S.E. Oregon the closest town that might have a technician that possibly could help is over two hours away, and realistically more than likely almost 4 hours away. If possible, I need to resolve this issue here on the ranch. I greatly appreciate any advice anyone can give me.

This is my favorite series to work on! I work at a Deere dealership and will be happy to help.

I am attaching a wiring schematic.

The area inside the dotted lines is your circuit board attached to the keyswitch.

The white wire seems to be the kill wire for the old ignition coil.
Looks like the safety system used this wire to kill the spark to the engine.
You may need to connect it to your new ignition coils for the engine shut-off and safety system to work correctly.

The solenoid wire is 'hot' when the keyswitch is on, and also works in conjunction with your safety system to shut the fuel flow off to the engine if something bad happens. I would connect this wire to whatever wire will shut down the power to the EFI to stop fuel from getting to the engine as that was it's original purpose on the old engine. An idea would be to have this wire power the fuel pump. That way, it would shut the pump off.

In summary, the white wire grounds the ignition, and the solenoid wire would shut off the fuel supply in order to shut the engine down.

I am leaving the shop for the day (it is 5pm here on the east coast), but will check back in the morning.

Take a look at the schematic and let me know if you have any questions.

Thanks! -Will

Will,
Thank you for your response, your answer makes sense. I will not be able to work on the Deere until Friday. I'll let you know the results. I have the new Kohler Service Manual so the wire identification is the easy part; then it is just figuring the best place to attach into the circuit before the ignition coil and fuel pump.

When the engine died I contacted some re-engine firms and was told due to size restrictions I couldn't put a new engine on this Deere. I was pleased with the life of the old Kohler engine and when I found that this EFI Kohler appeared to fit on the chassis; I made a wood cut-out of the engine base from the spec page drawings to check fit. I decided to go for the swap. It took a fair amount of modification to get the hood to fit. I plan to box the hood sides to protect the side of the engine like the 318 model had. I had read that if I stayed with the Kohler family that the wiring would be an easier retro-fit; so decided to go with the Kohler EFI engine. I knew it would be challenge and it has been.

We live at 5,100' in elevation, which required putting a high-altitude jet in the old carb. I was told the EFI engine would not be a problem at this altitude. I didn't feel the need for the 25 hp engine; Kohler shows a 20 hp EFI but I was informed it wouldn't be available until early next year. We need to get this little Deere working before then.

I was concerned about putting that much power increase on the transaxle. I was told the Peerless 801 was supposed be a fairly robust transaxle and that should be able to handle the increase, no hot rodding the tractor. The transaxle doesn't have any leaks and has never shown any issues. Time will tell. We don't abuse our equipment, use it yes but not abuse it. Even if I should have to replace the transaxle in the future I feel the total cost of keeping the old Deere running would be less than trying to buy an equivalent new tractor. I looked for a possible used replacement but felt a new engine made more economic sense.

MJM48 said:

Will,
Thank you for your response, your answer makes sense. I will not be able to work on the Deere until Friday. I'll let you know the results. I have the new Kohler Service Manual so the wire identifcation is the easy part; then it is just figuring the best place to attach into the circuit before the ignition coil and fuel pump.

When the engine died I contacted some re-engine firms and was told due to size restrictions I couldn't put a new engine on this Deere. I was pleased with the life of the old Kohler engine and when I found that this EFI Kohler appeared to fit on the chasis; I made a wood cut-out of the engine base from the spec page drawings to check fit. I decided to go for the swap. It took a fair amount of modification to get the hood to fit. I plan to box the hood sides to protect the side of the engine like the 318 model had. I had read that if I stayed with the Kohler family that the wiring would be an easier retro-fit; so decided to go with the Kohler EFI engine. I knew it would be challenge and it has been.

We live at 5,100' in elevation, which required putting a high altitude jet in the old carb. I was told the EFI engine would not be a problem at this altitude. I didn't feel the need for the 25 hp engine; Kohler shows a 20 hp EFI but I was informed it wouldn't be available until early next year. We need to get this little Deere working before then.

I was concerned about putting that much power increase on the transaxle. I was told the Peerless 801 was supposed be a fairly robust transaxle and that should be able to handle the increase, no hot rodding the tractor. The transaxle doesn't have any leaks and has never shown any issues. Time will tell. We don't abuse our equipment, use it yes but not abuse it. Even if I should have to replace the transaxle in the future I feel the total cost of keeping the old Deere running would be less than trying to buy an equivalent new tractor. I looked for a possible used replacement but felt a new engine made more economic sense.

Click to expand...

Your transmission should be ok with that engine. It's big brother, the LX188, had a 17hp engine in it so you should be fine. Let me know how you make out. I usually check my messages about 8 or 9AM eastern time.

Question: I'm not sure where or how I should connect the Deere wires. I've attached the new engine wiring diagram and highlighted the ignition coils and fuel pump. I'm not well versed in electrical engineering so I'm not sure if I can just use a clamp on connector to the red/black wires ("B" wire) just prior to the ingition coils and fuel pump wires or if I need to cut those power wires and somehow route the circuit through the Deere wires.

I may be trying to over think this. At first I thought I could just attach a clamp connector from the Deere wires at the coils and fuel pump but then I started seconding guessing myself and thought, "no that wouldn't break the circuit and act as a kill/shut-off." I do appreciate your perspective and help.
MJM

MJM48 said:

Question: I'm not sure where or how I should connect the Deere wires. I've attached the new engine wiring diagram and highlighted the ignition coils and fuel pump. I'm not well versed in electrical engineering so I'm not sure if I can just use a clamp on connector to the red/black wires ("B" wire) just prior to the ingition coils and fuel pump wires or if I need to cut those power wires and somehow route the circuit through the Deere wires.

I may be trying to over think this. At first I thought I could just attach a clamp connector from the Deere wires at the coils and fuel pump but then I started seconding guessing myself and thought, "no that wouldn't break the circuit and act as a kill/shut-off." I do appreciate your perspective and help.
MJM

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I had some time to check messages this afternoon. Thanks for the diagram. Let me put that beside the original schematic and figure this out. We can make this work!

At the risk of clouding the issue here I have a few questions.

I was under the impression the "igniter" used in the old engines performed the functions of ignition dwell (i.e. how long the coil stayed on) electronically (as opposed to even older setups that used mechanical points for that). Pull that wire and the coil can't fire, all of which is irrelevant to any ignition system that handles dwell some other way, such as later ignition coils with internal dwell control, and of course EFI systems.

I'd expect an EFI engine to stop once power is cut to its computer, no? Other than keyswitch wires for run and start, what else would it need? We're assuming the engine is still grounded to frame via its block, an additional ground cable, and that the original Deere harness is still also grounded to frame or engine so that the ignition switch retains its ground, yeah?

And the big question, have you attempted to fire the engine yet?

deckeda said:

At the risk of clouding the issue here I have a few questions.

I was under the impression the "igniter" used in the old engines performed the functions of ignition dwell (i.e. how long the coil stayed on) electronically (as opposed to even older setups that used mechanical points for that). Pull that wire and the coil can't fire, all of which is irrelevant to any ignition system that handles dwell some other way, such as later ignition coils with internal dwell control, and of course EFI systems.

I'd expect an EFI engine to stop once power is cut to its computer, no? Other than keyswitch wires for run and start, what else would it need? We're assuming the engine is still grounded to frame via its block, an additional ground cable, and that the original Deere harness is still also grounded to frame or engine so that the ignition switch retains its ground, yeah?

And the big question, have you attempted to fire the engine yet?

Click to expand...

Deckeda, that is exactly what I was thinking as well. I am checking the original tractor harness and making the sure the power wire for the original carb functions with the safety system, and it looks like it does. I dont want to wire the machine straight from the keyswitch as that would compromise the safety system.

MJM, if you could do a few tests with a digital volt meter or test light, that would be great. Here is a list:

1. With keyswitch on, transmission in neutral, PTO switch off, parking brake locked, the carb wire should have voltage. This similates the starting conditions.
2. With keyswitch on, transmission in any gear, PTO switch on, parking brake released, and operator on seat, the wire should have voltage. This similates the normal mowing conditions.
3. With same settings as #2, except operator off seat, the wire should NOT have voltage. Verify that the voltage turns off when the operator leaves the seat. This similates someone falling off the machine while mowing. If the voltage turns off when you come off the seat, we should be good to go.

Will1988 said:

Deckeda, that is exactly what I was thinking as well. I am checking the original tractor harness and making the sure the power wire for the original carb functions with the safety system, and it looks like it does. I dont want to wire the machine straight from the keyswitch as that would compromise the safety system.

MJM, if you could do a few tests with a digital volt meter or test light, that would be great. Here is a list:

1. With keyswitch on, transmission in neutral, PTO switch off, parking brake locked, the carb wire should have voltage. This similates the starting conditions.
2. With keyswitch on, transmission in any gear, PTO switch on, parking brake released, and operator on seat, the wire should have voltage. This similates the normal mowing conditions.
3. With same settings as #2, except operator off seat, the wire should NOT have voltage. Verify that the voltage turns off when the operator leaves the seat. This similates someone falling off the machine while mowing. If the voltage turns off when you come off the seat, we should be good to go.

Click to expand...

Will,
I used a test light and yes it followed the 3 steps you listed above. At the risk of jumping ahead of your thinking as I studied the wiring diagram for the Kohler EFI with your insight I have the following 4 questions.
1. Should the Deere white wire #940 (which is part of the fuel shut-off system) be wired to the Kohler 6 pin connector in the #4 pin location. As I read the diagram it appears this Kohler red/black wire powers the ignition coils and the fuel pump.
2. Should the Deere yellow/black wire #416 (carb solenoid fuel shut-off ) be tied into the same Kohler pin as above (#4 in the 6 pin connector that powers ignition coils and fuel pump) this would in affect be the fuel pump shut-off.
3. Where should the Deere red wire #205 go? This #205 red wire was part of the original 4 pin connector to the old CV15 engine. Based on my limited understanding from your first post this appears to also be part of the fuel shut-off system. If questions 1,2, and 3 are correct this would make 3 Deere wires, (white #940; yellow/black #416 and red 205 all connected to the Kohler #4 pin in the 6 pin connector.
4. The Kohler #2 pin, white wire which connects to the Diagnostic Connector is shown connecting into the #14 pin in the Grey Connector on the ECU (2 pages before the wiring diagram I attached). The number 14 pin is titled, "Safety Switch Ground." Should I attach a ground in the Deere 6 pin connector to complete the Kohler 6 pin connector wiring?
I hope these 4 questions haven't muddied the water.

I had some time today but will not be able to do further tests/work until Friday. Thank you again so much for your time and insight.
Mike

deckeda said:

At the risk of clouding the issue here I have a few questions.

I was under the impression the "igniter" used in the old engines performed the functions of ignition dwell (i.e. how long the coil stayed on) electronically (as opposed to even older setups that used mechanical points for that). Pull that wire and the coil can't fire, all of which is irrelevant to any ignition system that handles dwell some other way, such as later ignition coils with internal dwell control, and of course EFI systems.

I'd expect an EFI engine to stop once power is cut to its computer, no? Other than keyswitch wires for run and start, what else would it need? We're assuming the engine is still grounded to frame via its block, an additional ground cable, and that the original Deere harness is still also grounded to frame or engine so that the ignition switch retains its ground, yeah?

And the big question, have you attempted to fire the engine yet?

Click to expand...

Hi deckeda,

Didn't mean to ignore your question, yes I tried to fire the engine and had nothing that is when I began looking on-line for answers. I wrote Kohler, didn't get a response, yet, and then I found this forum and submitted my original post. Will has been great in helping me to understand more of the original Deere wiring and how that relates to the new Kohler wiring. I do so much appreciate the time and thoughts from both of you.
Mike

MJM48 said:

Will,
I used a test light and yes it followed the 3 steps you listed above. At the risk of jumping ahead of your thinking as I studied the wiring diagram for the Kohler EFI with your insight I have the following 4 questions.
1. Should the Deere white wire #940 (which is part of the fuel shut-off system) be wired to the Kohler 6 pin connector in the #4 pin location. As I read the diagram it appears this Kohler red/black wire powers the ignition coils and the fuel pump.
2. Should the Deere yellow/black wire #416 (carb solenoid fuel shut-off ) be tied into the same Kohler pin as above (#4 in the 6 pin connector that powers ignition coils and fuel pump) this would in affect be the fuel pump shut-off.
3. Where should the Deere red wire #205 go? This #205 red wire was part of the original 4 pin connector to the old CV15 engine. Based on my limited understanding from your first post this appears to also be part of the fuel shut-off system. If questions 1,2, and 3 are correct this would make 3 Deere wires, (white #940; yellow/black #416 and red 205 all connected to the Kohler #4 pin in the 6 pin connector.
4. The Kohler #2 pin, white wire which connects to the Diagnostic Connector is shown connecting into the #14 pin in the Grey Connector on the ECU (2 pages before the wiring diagram I attached). The number 14 pin is titled, "Safety Switch Ground." Should I attach a ground in the Deere 6 pin connector to complete the Kohler 6 pin connector wiring?
I hope these 4 questions haven't muddied the water.

I had some time today but will not be able to do further tests/work until Friday. Thank you again so much for your time and insight.
Mike

Click to expand...

Mike,
I checked out those wires. I will list my answers 1-4 below in the same order as your questions above.

1. The 940 wire is a ground that was used to kill the ignition coils on the old system and works with the safety system. See answer #4 below.

2. The 416 wire is your switched power and works with the safety system. I would put the 416 wire in the #4 spot on the 6 pin connector as that is the ignition switch wire. After doing that, make sure the safety system will shut the engine down. If it doesnt for some reason, we may have to figure something else out.

3. The 205 wire was your B+ wire for the old voltage regulator, which, on the EFI diagram, is the purple wire labeled 'H' off the regulator labeled 'O'. Since the EFI purple wire is connected to the red wire going to your battery, I'm going to say we don't need to connect this 205 wire. In short, the 205 wire is being replaced by the purple wire on the EFI system. Once we get everything up and running, we will do a voltage check at the battery. And if the system is putting charge into the battery, which it should, then we won't need the 205 wire.

4. The #2 spot may be where we want to connect that 940 ground wire. If I read this right, this terminal is for a ground that would be part of the safety system, meaning that we would only want it to ground out by a safety switch. So that would match up with our 940 wire.

When connecting up the wires, just make temporary connections until we make sure everything is going to work as it should, then trim the wires and route them to make it look nice.
Let me know how you make out.

Will

Will1988 said:

Mike,
I checked out those wires. I will list my answers 1-4 below in the same order as your questions above.

1. The 940 wire is a ground that was used to kill the ignition coils on the old system and works with the safety system. See answer #4 below.

2. The 416 wire is your switched power and works with the safety system. I would put the 416 wire in the #4 spot on the 6 pin connector as that is the ignition switch wire. After doing that, make sure the safety system will shut the engine down. If it doesnt for some reason, we may have to figure something else out.

3. The 205 wire was your B+ wire for the old voltage regulator, which, on the EFI diagram, is the purple wire labeled 'H' off the regulator labeled 'O'. Since the EFI purple wire is connected to the red wire going to your battery, I'm going to say we don't need to connect this 205 wire. In short, the 205 wire is being replaced by the purple wire on the EFI system. Once we get everything up and running, we will do a voltage check at the battery. And if the system is putting charge into the battery, which it should, then we won't need the 205 wire.

4. The #2 spot may be where we want to connect that 940 ground wire. If I read this right, this terminal is for a ground that would be part of the safety system, meaning that we would only want it to ground out by a safety switch. So that would match up with our 940 wire.

When connecting up the wires, just make temporary connections until we make sure everything is going to work as it should, then trim the wires and route them to make it look nice.
Let me know how you make out.

Will

Click to expand...

Hi Will,

No luck. I did notice that the yellow/black wire should be #416 not #415- both 415 and 416 are yellow/black wires. I'll list what I've currently got set-up. I have put the Deere wire in pins that mate with the Kohler 6 pin connector. I have also attached the print out of the ECU pin configuration.
Deere side connector:
Pin #1- empty (empty on the Kohler side)
Pin #2- white wire #940 [According to LX173 Electrical Schematic, pg 5-13 went to "A1 Ignition Module."]
Pin #3- new wire (red small gauge to match Kohler gauge) to MIL on dash- I have checked to make sure on correct polarity of Malfunction Lamp.
Pin #4- yellow/black wire #416 [on the Deere schematic went to "Y1 Fuel Shutoff Solenoid"]
Pin #5- tan wire # 620 [on the Deere schematic went to "B1 Engine Oil Pressure Switch/light"]
pin #6- purple/white #721 [on the Deere schematic went to "M1 Starting Motor"]

Kohler Engine side 6 pin connector:
Pin #1- empty
Pin #2- white wire [goes to grey connector on the ECU which is called, "Safety Switch Ground"]
Pin #3- black MIL [goes to MIL]
Pin #4- red/white [goes to black connector on the ECU called, "Ignition Switch (Switched +12V)]
Pin #5- green [goes to "Oil Pressure Switch"- no pressure switch on engine. I have the old one and when I change the break in oil at 25 hours may try to install in provided port.]
Pin #6- dark blue [goes to "Starter Motor"]

I have run the following test lamp check this was performed on the back of Kohler side of the 6 pin connector:
With key on the "On" position: pin wires- 3,4,5,6 bright light; pin 2 barely lights, very dim
With key in the "Start" position: pin wire- 3,4,5,6 bright light; pin 2 barely lights

I am not well versed in meter usage, I do have one and will check YouTube on usage this afternoon. I have pulled the rear body/fender/seat off to make sure that the connector to the transaxle correctly seated, with the seat off I have a jumper across the seat safety switch as well with the back unit off. I also checked to make sure that the PTO connector is seated, I did clean with electrical spray cleaner these connectors while rebuilding the tractor.
Mike

MJM48 said:

Hi Will,

No luck. I did notice that the yellow/black wire should be #416 not #415- both 415 and 416 are yellow/black wires. I'll list what I've currently got set-up. I have put the Deere wire in pins that mate with the Kohler 6 pin connector. I have also attached the print out of the ECU pin configuration.
Deere side connector:
Pin #1- empty (empty on the Kohler side)
Pin #2- white wire #940 [According to LX173 Electrical Schematic, pg 5-13 went to "A1 Ignition Module."]
Pin #3- new wire (red small gauge to match Kohler gauge) to MIL on dash- I have checked to make sure on correct polarity of Malfunction Lamp.
Pin #4- yellow/black wire #416 [on the Deere schematic went to "Y1 Fuel Shutoff Solenoid"]
Pin #5- tan wire # 620 [on the Deere schematic went to "B1 Engine Oil Pressure Switch/light"]
pin #6- purple/white #721 [on the Deere schematic went to "M1 Starting Motor"]

Kohler Engine side 6 pin connector:
Pin #1- empty
Pin #2- white wire [goes to grey connector on the ECU which is called, "Safety Switch Ground"]
Pin #3- black MIL [goes to MIL]
Pin #4- red/white [goes to black connector on the ECU called, "Ignition Switch (Switched +12V)]
Pin #5- green [goes to "Oil Pressure Switch"- no pressure switch on engine. I have the old one and when I change the break in oil at 25 hours may try to install in provided port.]
Pin #6- dark blue [goes to "Starter Motor"]

I have run the following test lamp check this was performed on the back of Kohler side of the 6 pin connector:
With key on the "On" position: pin wires- 3,4,5,6 bright light; pin 2 barely lights, very dim
With key in the "Start" position: pin wire- 3,4,5,6 bright light; pin 2 barely lights

I am not well versed in meter usage, I do have one and will check YouTube on usage this afternoon. I have pulled the rear body/fender/seat off to make sure that the connector to the transaxle correctly seated, with the seat off I have a jumper across the seat safety switch as well with the back unit off. I also checked to make sure that the PTO connector is seated, I did clean with electrical spray cleaner these connectors while rebuilding the tractor.
Mike

Click to expand...

Will,
Additional information: I have checked all fuses on the Deere and the Kohler to make sure no problem there, also this is a brand new battery. In rebuilding I pulled the key switch module off the dash and blew with low pressure compressored air 23 years of dust off and reinstalled.

MJM48 said:

Will,
Additional information: I have checked all fuses on the Deere and the Kohler to make sure no problem there, also this is a brand new battery. In rebuilding I pulled the key switch module off the dash and blew with low pressure compressored air 23 years of dust off and reinstalled.

Click to expand...

The first thing that stands out to me is that the #721 purple wire should not have power unless the keyswitch is in the start position. This wire activates the starter solenoid. I'm assuming your new engine has a solenoid shift starter (solenoid piggy-backed onto starter). If the solenoid is not on the starter, then we will have to wire it up differently. If the purple wire has power with the keyswitch in the run position, then there is a problem on the tractor side that needs to be corrected first.

Pin #2 is a ground and shouldn't light at all. Let's disconnect that for now.

Will1988 said:

The first thing that stands out to me is that the #721 purple wire should not have power unless the keyswitch is in the start position. This wire activates the starter solenoid. I'm assuming your new engine has a solenoid shift starter (solenoid piggy-backed onto starter). If the solenoid is not on the starter, then we will have to wire it up differently. If the purple wire has power with the keyswitch in the run position, then there is a problem on the tractor side that needs to be corrected first.

Pin #2 is a ground and shouldn't light at all. Let's disconnect that for now.

Click to expand...

Will,
Had partial success late yesterday afternoon. In rechecking all connection I found I had a poor gound connection, fixed that, after pulling the white wire got spark/turned over engine- didn't run though. Just as I got the spark/turn over we had a ranch emergency arise and I didn't get back to the Deere Saturday. Such is ranch life. Off to church today, will try and get Deere started tomorrow. Will post results as to what happens.

MJM48 said:

Will,
Had partial success late yesterday afternoon. In rechecking all connection I found I had a poor gound connection, fixed that, after pulling the white wire got spark/turned over engine- didn't run though. Just as I got the spark/turn over we had a ranch emergency arise and I didn't get back to the Deere Saturday. Such is ranch life. Off to church today, will try and get Deere started tomorrow. Will post results as to what happens.

Click to expand...

Will-

Sucess, the tractor is running. I wanted to give information for anyone who might want to do an engine swap on their LX series particularly regarding the wiring. The Kohler EZT 740 engine will fit the LX chassis, with some modifications. The biggest issue is fitting the muffler. That requires the engine to be moved forward an inch or so for the muffler to mount to the engine and clear the front of the chassis. That requires drilling new holes in the chassis deck to mount the engine. It also requires adjusting the pulley idlers to allow the stock drive belt to fit with the engine further forward. Making the hood fit required a fair amount of modification- lots of cutting to clear the wider, taller engine.

Regarding the wiring. The initial problem was a grounding issue. I installed in addition to the engine grounding wire as second grounding wire directly to the chassis. I purchased a Molex 6 pin connector from Amazon along with the pin remover tool, total cost $15.00. The following is the list of which Deere wires went in which numbered connector slots to mate with the 6 pin Molex connector on the new Kohler engine.

Pin #1- empty (empty on the Kohler connector.)
Pin #2- Deere white wire #940
Pin #3- New wire to the new installed dash Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL)
Pin #4- Deere yellow/black wire #416
Pin #5- Deere tan wire #620, oil sensor wire
Pin #6- Deere purple/white wire #721 this connects to the starter assembly

The Deere red wire #205 was not used, I capped it and then wrapped the wiring assembly. With just the yellow/black wire, the MIL wire, and starter wire, the engine would crank but not start. It was necessary to have the Deere white wire in the #2 pin to start the engine. I've attached a couple of pictures showing the completed project. The clear boxes on the sides of the hood are a Rubbermaid 9" x 12" clear polycarbonate type dishs modified to cover the sides of the engine that was too wide for the original hood requiring the hood sides to be cut. Covering the side probably not necessary for most, but we mow down tall weeds with this tractor on the ranch. I wanted to protect what would have been open engine sides from brush.

I hope this might help anyone who is thinking of doing an engine swap on an LX series tractor. I want to thank you, Will, for your time and advice in walking me through this project. It is alway good to have sucess.
Mike