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Hi All. I have a Craftsman riding mower model 917271121. It has a 16.5 Kohler CV16s - 43513. Currently I have no spark. I have ohmed out the coil , if I recall it had 4.5 ohms. I did make the mistake of trying to use sandpaper to clean the rust off the ends, and also clean the rust off the magnets on the flywheel. The spark seemed weak before I cleaned it. I thought if I cleaned them off it would be stronger. It appears I have done more bad than good. I also read somewhere that you can test the ignition coil and relays this way (copied and pasted) below.

"If you have not fire to the spark plug, either the ignition module is bad, or the operator presence relay number 1 is bad.

The best way to test is to remove the blower housing from the engine. Disconnect the wire (either white or black) that plugs on the ignition module. This is the kill wire that grounds out the module when you turn the ignition key off. If the engine has no fire with the kill wire disconnected, the ignition module is bad. If you have fire with the kill wire disconnected, either the seat switch or the number 1 operator presence relay is bad. "

On this ignition coil there are two wires, a black wire and a yellow wire. The above test only mentions one wire, not two. I was not sure if both wires need to be removed or not. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

You have the ASAM analog speed advance module kohler smart spark ignition system. There should be a black plastic box on the left side of the engine. This ignition can't be tested by removing the kill wire from the coil. The system requires 12 volts to the module. Many craftsman mowers run the module power through a relay. If the contacts are bad you will get low or no voltage at the ignition module. First thing is to check you have battery voltage at red wire going to the ASAM module. Double check your coil gap. These ignitions are famous for crapping out.

Hammermechanicman said:

You have the ASAM analog speed advance module kohler smart spark ignition system. There should be a black plastic box on the left side of the engine. This ignition can't be tested by removing the kill wire from the coil. The system requires 12 volts to the module. Many craftsman mowers run the module power through a relay. If the contacts are bad you will get low or no voltage at the ignition module. First thing is to check you have battery voltage at red wire going to the ASAM module. Double check your coil gap. These ignitions are famous for crapping out.

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Thanks. i will check this tomorrow. Out of daylight here.

Ok. I checked the red wire it was dead. I started poking around trying to see where it gets it's voltage from. I found 3 relays under/behind the gas tank. As soon as I grabbed the harness (the key was on) I could hear a click - sounded like the carburetor solenoid. Checked voltage at the red wire and it was there, 10.89 volts (battery was 12.39) I then tried to start the mower and it would not start, could not hear the carburetor solenoid activate. Tried to plug/unplug the relays, could not get it to come back. I am thinking it's either a bad relay or bad wiring. One of the relays does not have the original connector on it. It was taped up with blade connectors on the inside. Other than that I did not see anything out of place. I will check the wires for continuity if possible.

I would just replace all 3 relays and go from there

Here is the socket if needed

Hammermechanicman said:

I would just replace all 3 relays and go from there

Home

12 VDC Automotive 5-Pin Relay SPDT 30/40A Bosch TypeThis Bosch type 12V, 40A relay is widely used in car sound and automotive security installations. The relay features a plastic housing with mounting tab for easy installation. SPDT, 30/40A.

www.parts-express.com

Here is the socket if needed

Home

12 VDC 5-Pin Relay Socket For Bosch Type RelayPre-wired relay socket for use with 12 VDC Bosch type five terminal relays. Three 12" heavy 14 AWG power wires and two 12" 18 AWG coil control wires. For all applications including door lock, light flasher, starter kill, remote start circuits, and...

www.parts-express.com

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thanks. will do.

replaced all 3 relays - no change. I looked for broken wires/bad connections, didn't see any.

Time to find a schematic and see if when you turn the key on whichever relay powers the ignition energizes and if that relay has 12v power to it. The schematic i found on line does not show the ignition system you have. You can trace the red wire from the ignition module back to which relay and work from there.

Hammermechanicman said:

Time to find a schematic and see if when you turn the key on whichever relay powers the ignition energizes and if that relay has 12v power to it. The schematic i found on line does not show the ignition system you have. You can trace the red wire from the ignition module back to which relay and work from there.

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Ok. I'll give it a shot tomorrow. Thanks for the advice

That schematic shows the convention ignition not the ASAM ignition you have. Yours will feed 12v to the fuel solenoid and ignition directly from the ignition switch or from a relay. I have seen both on craftsman mowers. Does the fuel solenoid click when you turn the key? Check the connector on the back of the ignition switch for corrosion.

Hammermechanicman said:

That schematic shows the convention ignition not the ASAM ignition you have. Yours will feed 12v to the fuel solenoid and ignition directly from the ignition switch or from a relay. I have seen both on craftsman mowers. Does the fuel solenoid click when you turn the key? Check the connector on the back of the ignition switch for corrosion.

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It's not clicking. I will check the ignition switch - I did just replace the ignition switch last year.

Thanks fro all your help.... I did some poking around, chasing voltage, checking the relays. The one relay had 12 volts in, but nothing going out. That is the relay that feeds the fuel solenoid. I suspected the seat safety switch, so I removed it, took it out from under the seat and plugged it back in. When I push the plunger down by hand it completes the circuit and I can hear the fuel solenoid click. So I suspect something in the seat is not allowing the plunger to compress.... once I get that figured out I will check spark.

Update - seat switch is fine. It's the ignition switch connector. When i plug it in all the way into the switch it's not making good contact. If I back the connector off a little it works fine. Looks like the connector female ends are a little dull/corroded. I will try and clean them up, but it might be time for a new one.

Not sure if you have a 5 or 6 terminal ignition switch but you can get new pins or a connector kit to fix the corroded pin(s).

Hammermechanicman said:

Not sure if you have a 5 or 6 terminal ignition switch but you can get new pins or a connector kit to fix the corroded pin(s).

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ok thanks. I adjusted the ignition coil, got spark back, and got it running.

mikesignal said:

Ok. I'll give it a shot tomorrow. Thanks for the advice

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I have the same mower. Thanks for the advise about the relay. I'll try it.