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Anyone familiar with an add on oil cooler for a FR651V?

Going to look into this one> https://derale.com/product-footer/f...il-filter-relocation-kit-1-2-npt-ports-detail

Cheers

Is your engine under warranty ?

7394 said:

Is your engine under warranty ?

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Buddy, yes, an I'll leave this alone until it's out of warranty, Cheers, Ray

Safest way to go.

RayMcD said:

Anyone familiar with an add on oil cooler for a FR651V?

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Let me know if you find one that works well.

Someone please explain the benefit of an oil cooler?

slomo said:

Someone please explain the benefit of an oil cooler?

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Not to be a smart azz, but it's rather self explanatory. By having the engine running with oil that is 20 or more degrees cooler, the engine is subjected to less wear and tear, resulting in longer engine life. I have the same engine on my 5 yo Scag Liberty Z 48". But with only 143 hrs run time on it, I'm not overly concerned with installing a cooler. Plus, I change the oil and filter yearly even tho only 30 hrs are racked up each season.

BTBO said:

Not to be a smart azz, but it's rather self explanatory. By having the engine running with oil that is 20 or more degrees cooler, the engine is subjected to less wear and tear, resulting in longer engine life. I have the same engine on my 5 yo Scag Liberty Z 48". But with only 143 hrs run time on it, I'm not overly concerned with installing a cooler. Plus, I change the oil and filter yearly even tho only 30 hrs are racked up each season.

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Okay, got it. But there are a ka'-zillion mowers out there with say no oil filter or even full pressure lube. Talking about air cooled engines here.

Oil needs to get hot, fast, and burn off any moisture in the crankcase. In cars quicker warm ups equates to better mpg. Mowers people don't care long as it starts LOL.

Never seen any data from any source about lower temps and oil/engine longevity. I would think keeping her on the full mark prior to mowing with any magic oil of the week is better than a cooler. ????

slomo said:

Okay, got it. But there are a ka'-zillion mowers out there with say no oil filter or even full pressure lube. Talking about air cooled engines here.

Oil needs to get hot, fast, and burn off any moisture in the crankcase. In cars quicker warm ups equates to better mpg. Mowers people don't care long as it starts LOL.

Never seen any data from any source about lower temps and oil/engine longevity. I would think keeping her on the full mark prior to mowing with any magic oil of the week is better than a cooler. ????

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I'm no Mr. GoodWrench, so I suggest, if you haven't already, Google "purpose/benefits of oil cooler on small air cooled engine." As far as magic oil of the week, I at first used Mobil 1 20W50 (recommended for warmer climates) but have since changed over to Valvoline Synthetic Racing oil (black bottle) for the higher zinc content. I have a concoction added to 5 gals non ethanol gas consisting of 15 ozs Seafoam, 1 Oz of Stabil Marine and 1 Oz of Yamaha Ring Free. That Kawasaki fires up instantly, even tho I don't run the carbs dry or drain the tank during the off season. During that time, I crank er up at least twice monthly and vary the rpms for 8-10 minutes. Works like a charm.

Because these are air cooled engines, making sure the cylinder heads and cooling fins are free of dirt, grass, and debris is also important. Oil coolers help no doubt, however, do not neglect checking and cleaning engine under the shroud and tins as necessary.

BTBO said:

I suggest, if you haven't already, Google "purpose/benefits of oil cooler on small air cooled engine."

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All of this is from Google using YOUR search words. As we will see, I captured every paragraph link and posted here for all to see. Notice the SOURCES on the right side of the screen grabs. None are credible.

You can put three coolers on if you wish. Use Rolls Royce aviation turbine oil if you like. Just don't see much of a benefit, from my poor eyes. Just a mower engine.

Tiger Small Engine said:

Because these are air cooled engines, making sure the cylinder heads and cooling fins are free of dirt, grass, and debris is also important. Oil coolers help no doubt, however, do not neglect checking and cleaning engine under the shroud and tins as necessary.

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Best response yet!

woodstover said:

Best response yet!

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In my short life, I have always understood that oils (transmission/engine) have an optimum operating temperature range.

Overcooling is no more beneficial than overheating.

• Cooler oil does not perform/protect your engine any better than optimum temperature oil.
• Cooler oil will cost hp/more fuel to be used.
• Cooler oil can result in retained volatile fractions (eg fuel/water/etc) that will damage the system

When considering additional cooling you should always start from KNOWING :

• The current operating temperature
• The optimum temperature range for the oil you are using (mostly in the 95 -110 Centigrade range)

If your oil temperature is going above the optimum, additional cooling strategies may be beneficial.

What is a Kiawasaki? Is it part Kia and part Kawasaki that is use to mow down customers?

Skippydiesel said:

If your oil temperature is going above the optimum, additional cooling strategies may be beneficial.

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Fully agree with this. If your engine oil is at say 275F+, then I can see to start, looking at a cooler. Under 275F I would pass. I like that new German oil called Good-N'-Hot.

slomo said:

Fully agree with this. If your engine oil is at say 275F+, then I can see to start, looking at a cooler. Under 275F I would pass. I like that new German oil called Good-N'-Hot.

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If you have consistent oil temperature above 110C, peaks, under load/ dust chaff build up/very hot day, may be much higher - I would consult with the oil manufactures technical advisor.
It may be that the oil is good to 120C plus - equally it may be better that the oil runs somewhere between 95 - 100C.