JohnDeere D105 Drive train problem

[OldGeyser69]

Calling all D105 FanBoys(& Girls), actually anyone with knowledge of this "TOP OF THE LINE" \ Exquisite \ Prestigious, John Deere offering
Ok!, I might have said too much . . .
Yes! Taryl, the POS with the plastic transmission. [Taryl Fixes All]
Since >20K units(Recall Amount) were produced, -- it is likely someone else has encountered my exact scenario.
I am trying NOT to Re-Invent the wheel here, So any help gratefully appreciated.
Here Goes:-
I was pulling a detacher loaded with a couple of cinder blocks with my D105.
Then i became aware of somewhat horrible sound.
It sounded like a bucket of nuts, rotating inside a washing machine.
For sure it sounded like a bad bearing somewhere.
I stopped and checked the engine dipstick for oil level, i did notice there were little bubbles on the dipstick.
Because the engine was hot and not settled it was difficult to read the actual oil level, on the stick. --i put some oil in as a precaution and proceeded to finish the yard
I noticed that even a small touch down on the “BRAKE” pedal caused the noise to disappear !!, HMmmmm ??.
It was only when the brake pedal was fully released and the machine was in motion that the obnoxious sound could be heard.
I found a part's diagram and also found some information on the internet, which led me to suspect one or both of the 2 idler pulleys, #9 & #11 on this Parts Diagram

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/65843/referrer/navigation/pgId/77560047

My JD Store had both and was only a half hour away if indeed i did need them.

I figured this was a straightforward and a simple fix. I took down the deck, and pulled the 1st pulley.
To my total surprise it was perfect, i thought ok it's got to be a second pulley,
which i then removed and again low on behold it was also perfect.
From what i could see of the belt also looked to be in real good shape.
Got to admit i was baffled, with the aid of an accomplice sitting on the seat to prevent the tractor from stalling out, i stuck my cellphone underneath and hoped to catch some video of what was going on down there.
Have a look at this short video link [~20Secs]and see for yourself.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/12wgfgXHZNcofil49OkZSFW4YlHpPDy57/view?

The belt to me looks real “Loosey Goosey” but perhaps that’s the modus operandi, for this setup.
I am reluctant to blame the belt as 2 years ago, i went down a rabbit hole, with what i thought was a loose mower “DECK” belt, only to find that the new mower deck belt behaved in the exact same manner. -- See this picture.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1u_FA4Izz6aLrV3u79DqY79Vz88QGQsqj/view?

Never did get to solve that one.

More IMPORTANT . . .
Regarding my present “DRIVE” belt problem
perhaps someone with a similar model might have experienced this same issue.
I would like to get some ideas before, i tear it down again.

Someone, owning a "D105" might have encountered this FLOPPY BELT \ NOISY issue, & might save me the trouble of multiple tear downs, to try track this issue.
Anyway!
Thanks All
OldGeyser69

 

[sgkent]

figure out what hitting the brake applies pressure to. also https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...h-Header.pdf&usg=AOvVaw1CWu3DQfOJ9Vho8Eu5t2MX

 

[StarTech]

With deck removed, scotch front wheels jack up rear end & place jack stands under frame rails & give it a try. Place a 2x4 between jack & transaxle to prevent damaging aluminum housing. Have a helper give you a hand. Let us know what you find, thanks, Mark

Mark the OP can't do that. As it is a General Transmission RS800F. It is a plastic housed unit. You simply don't want to be jacking on it. There is no internal parts available. The driver does have bearing that can be replaced you must know which bearing they are. Also the external plastic parts do break and others wear out.

As said it is a terrible design. No wonder JD and Husqvarna dropped their use. I am surprised that GTI is still in business.

It would have been nice if GTI actually produced a decent service manual and provided internal parts which they don't.

 

[OldGeyser69]

figure out what hitting the brake applies pressure to

Thank you sgkent for responding .
What you said indeed makes perfect sense, Yes I have to say I don't fully the mechanical principles behind the operation of the unit. Your left leg is pressing a brake pedal, which on a full size tractor would be your clutch pedal.
Your right leg operates a pedal which makes the machine go faster or slower,-- but is not actually a throttle/gas pedal.
The throttle-gas are controlled by a lever on the dash.
So for sure, -- I really do have to try and figure out what the principles of operations are, and what is going on underneath the hood.

Redirect Notice

Thank you for the recall list, unfortunately my unit predates this by 2 years.
What was interesting about this list was the fact that there are 27,506 text references to 1GXD105.
That's quite a big recall number.

Let us know what you find, thanks, Mark

Thanks mechanic mark for responding.
I am still hoping to get a definitive response from somebody who actually has a similar unit and has encountered my exact same problem.
I don't want to keep pulling down the deck in between doing my weekly mowing..
Nor do i want to throw random parts at the problem, in the hope of a fix.
If there is no actual Response from a forum member, I might in fact just continue to use it until something actually snaps (not an ideal situation)
But at least then I'll be able to put an actual finger on the problem definitively.

As said it is a terrible design. No wonder JD and Husqvarna dropped their use

Thanks star Tech for responding.
Indeed so true, The unit as you stated is indeed a sealed unit non serviceable.
Some ancillary parts which attach to the top of the transmission are available..
Here is a part diagram of the parts involved which may help some other members with a similar unit who are having issues .

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/65843/referrer/navigation/pgId/77560264

Multiple issues have been attributed to the secondary variator pulley assembly (#2) on the diagram.
Here is a link to a YouTube video from the "Taryl fixes all" collection, where he deals with this secondary variator pulley assembly.

Stick with the video, look past the goofy antics. He is actually an excellent and competent technician.

APOLOGIES:-
The links, you may have to Copy+Paste into the Address bar on your browser.
I could not get the "LINK" icon to work correctly,--It kept entering the "FORUM" url from the Top of the page

 

[sgkent]

stop looking for someone else's problem and start focusing on yours. Then search for it once you know where the issue is. If pressing the brake makes the noise stop, figure out what parts are being affected by that action. For example, does it go away when you press it lightly? Does it require pressing hard? Is it related to stopping and not moving rather than actually hitting the brake? Try to use your senses - feel the vibration, hear it etc.. Someone can come into a garage and say, my car makes a terrible noise but when I turn the key to the off position the noise stops. What is wrong with the ignition switch and key? Think it thru. If that isn't comfortable then time to take it to the shop. You do not want to be the guy who gets told, "well, it was only a $12 part with $75 labor that started the problem but now it is a $3800 repair cause it wasn't caught in time."

 

[mechanic mark]

Mark the OP can't do that. As it is a General Transmission RS800F. It is a plastic housed unit. You simply don't want to be jacking on it. There is no internal parts available. The driver does have bearing that can be replaced you must know which bearing they are. Also the external plastic parts do break and others wear out.

As said it is a terrible design. No wonder JD and Husqvarna dropped their use. I am surprised that GTI is still in business.

It would have been nice if GTI actually produced a decent service manual and provided internal parts which they don't.

Thanks StarTech for information. Mark