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John Deeree X590 SN:161099 (not sure of the year model......2023+-?)

I would like to replace the blank switch cover (the one intended to serve for the optional mulch system, I think), on the dash, with a Carling Techno, Contura X switch, V6D1S001.

This switch has 3 terminals: 1 power in (center post), and 2 leads out (switch can toggle between the two leads, with center being off.

I would like to use one of the leads out to control a 12v sprayer, source from battery if possible, and the other lead out to temporarily by pass the brake when starting the mower (bad knee and back, difficult to push down brake to start)..........just not sure if this can be accomplished and if so, need some help with the wiring of it.

Thoughts and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Tap off wire 400A WH or 400B YE at ignition switch for switched 12v. This make sure the sprayer and brae switch is switch off when the ignition is off. For brake side tap the 705B VT wire at the ICC module.

Terminal #2 is the 12V position. with 1 and 3 the switch 12v out. Switch is rated for 20 amp.


Note JD don't always the use the same color wire as on the schematics so look for the printed numbers. Also verify before rewire that the brake switch is on when the brake pedal is set.

With that particular switch you need to remember move it back to center once you get the engine started.

Great info!! Just to make sure I'm clear on the wiring:

Terminal 2 - tap into either 400A WH or 400B YE and connect to terminal 2
Terminal 1 - tap into 705B VY and connect to terminal 1
Terminal 3 - 12v from sprayer to be connected to terminal 3

FWIW, I'm 81 years old, and just need to dive into this with a clear mind (or as much as possible!)

Your help is so valuable, and I thank you for sharing your experience with this mod.

StarTech said:

Tap off wire 400A WH or 400B YE at ignition switch for switched 12v. This make sure the sprayer and brae switch is switch off when the ignition is off. For brake side tap the 705B VT wire at the ICC module.

Terminal #2 is the 12V position. with 1 and 3 the switch 12v out. Switch is rated for 20 amp.
View attachment 70357

Note JD don't always the use the same color wire as on the schematics so look for the printed numbers. Also verify before rewire that the brake switch is on when the brake pedal is set.

With that particular switch you need to remember move it back to center once you get the engine started.

Click to expand...

That should do it. Basically you are installing a parallel switch for the brake while leaving the brake switch active too as you don't disconnect the current brake switch. This way some other operator won't get confused. Hopefully things are close together as I try to keep wire runs as short as possible and for neatness. Just don't want to drive some JD tech crazy. I do enough of that when I do bypasses of the interlock modules of the Z900 series here.

And thanks for the equipment SN as there was a break at 110000. I did need to DL the SM for the mower as it is one I haven't seen yet. And switch PDF I had was a year older than the current one DL. Just JD would at least include one full diagram along with those multiple page ones. It takes longer to cut paste together one that I can easily follow.

BTW you a lot sharper than most 20-30 year olds when it comes to electrical here. Just take your time and don't rush things. Finding those wire numbers can take time. At least we not with over 100 white wires that I use to go through looking for these. And my luck was that the one I was looking for was the last one looked at.

StarTech said:

That should do it. Basically you are installing a parallel switch for the brake while leaving the brake switch active too as you don't disconnect the current brake switch. This way some other operator won't get confused. Hopefully things are close together as I try to keep wire runs as short as possible and for neatness. Just don't want to drive some JD tech crazy. I do enough of that when I do bypasses of the interlock modules of the Z900 series here.

And thanks for the equipment SN as there was a break at 110000. I did need to DL the SM for the mower as it is one I haven't seen yet. And switch PDF I had was a year older than the current one DL. Just JD would at least include one full diagram along with those multiple page ones. It takes longer to cut paste together one that I can easily follow.

BTW you a lot sharper than most 20-30 year olds when it comes to electrical here. Just take your time and don't rush things. Finding those wire numbers can take time. At least we not with over 100 white wires that I use to go through looking for these. And my luck was that the one I was looking for was the last one looked at.

Click to expand...

I'll be holding off on this until spring......need better weather!
Thanks for the conformation, and the time you spent researching and responding.....greatly appreciated!

Your welcome. Besides its good mental exercise for me.

I having the same problem with the cotton picking weather here. I got a major project on hold until it warms up a little. I have been dealing sub freezing wind chills here. The temps was up in the 50s but windy as can be so it was still cold. Now I got a week in the 30s and nights in the 15-20 range. Just can't get my hands to work without them hurting from the cold.

I had to help a customer on Friday last week and it took over an hour to get my fingers to stop hurting. And all I did was troubleshoot a fuel problem. He manage to get the tractor running but the carb got to be overhauled. It is only a 1958-60 one. One problem solved but he has multiple problems with it like the oil leakage.

One ZTR unit been sitting there for a year awaiting the customer to get things on his end together. First it started out a PTO clutch with a rip-out anti rotation mount and then I found #2 cylinder dead. I got transfer one engine to the sitting unit and get it back up. And then install a larger engine on the donor mower which is his main mower. I don't even know if the engine his brought is in running condition. Its been sitting in the shop for 6 months.

Boy I hate things just sitting out there knowing they need to up, running, and out of my shop.