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I have a John Deere LA140 that is about four years old. I have recently had issues with the mower engaging then disengaging. After reading other forums, I determined it could be the battery (which was old) so I replaced that and the voltage regulator. After testing everything, that is not a problem. I'm getting proper voltage and the stator is putting out more than ample charge to keep everything going. I also had the common issue with the wire breaking off the connector at the PTO clutch under the mower. At first I just crimped it back on but after the mower quit engaging at all I just purchased an all new wiring harness and installed it. Still no dice. When I try to engage the electric PTO it makes no noise at all, no attempt to start the blades. Does anyone else have a clue as to what this could be? In parts I've spent about $180 at this point. The service call to the local JD dealer will be $139 plus parts so I'm motivated to do this myself but can't keep guessing and spending. Thoughts? Thanks for your help!

hi there.. sorry to hear that you had a run of bad luck.. with your clutch.. did the wire break off at the top of the clutch? if so there is no way of fixing it.. I did a service call today.. concerning a cub cadet clutch.. the customer took it off and put it on.. and yanked the two wires apart.. I would just get a new one.. you can get one on ebay..

Hi,
In my post, I mentioned that the wire had broken off and that I originally crimped it back on but that I just purchased a new wiring harness and installed that. The wiring harness included the plug that goes on top of the PTO clutch. So, that should have fixed it but it's not working. It wasn't hard to install the new harness so I'm pretty certain there's some other issue like a swtich or relay or something like that. I suppose it could even be the PTO switch itself. I did a continuity test on the PTO switch and got a tone when I touched opposite poles so I think that's okay. Still a mystery..
Thanks for taking time to reply.

FHH said:

Hi,
In my post, I mentioned that the wire had broken off and that I originally crimped it back on but that I just purchased a new wiring harness and installed that. The wiring harness included the plug that goes on top of the PTO clutch. So, that should have fixed it but it's not working. It wasn't hard to install the new harness so I'm pretty certain there's some other issue like a swtich or relay or something like that. I suppose it could even be the PTO switch itself. I did a continuity test on the PTO switch and got a tone when I touched opposite poles so I think that's okay. Still a mystery..
Thanks for taking time to reply.

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Time to get out the old VOLT meter. Unplug the connector and see if you have voltage at the plug at the PTO With every thing in the correct position as if you were using it. If not post back and we can go from there. Don't just keep buying parts untill they have been proven bad. Does the LA140 have fuses? If so check them first.


Ken

Thanks, Ken. So, just so I do this correctly, you're thinking I should have someone crank the mower and sit on the seat (so that the safety sensor doesn't shut down the motor) and engage the electric PTO switch while I have the connector disconnected, checking the terminals inside the connector for voltage? I just don't want to do something stupid so is that what I should be doing? Thanks!

FHH said:

Thanks, Ken. So, just so I do this correctly, you're thinking I should have someone crank the mower and sit on the seat (so that the safety sensor doesn't shut down the motor) and engage the electric PTO switch while I have the connector disconnected, checking the terminals inside the connector for voltage? I just don't want to do something stupid so is that what I should be doing? Thanks!

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FHH Yes I often work by myself so I jump the safety out while testing. How many wires are on that plug? I don't have that mower or a print for it. You will need to find what wire has the 12v to feed the clutch and also make sure it has a good clean and tight ground. If you can post a photo it may help. My 2012 Z445 has a 7.5 amp fuse for the PTO clutch See if you have one and check to prove it is good. If you do not have power and fuse is good next would be to check the switch. See if you have power going to the Sw. then turn it on and see if you have power out.

Ken

bollingball said:

Time to get out the old VOLT meter. Unplug the connector and see if you have voltage at the plug at the PTO With every thing in the correct position as if you were using it. If not post back and we can go from there. Don't just keep buying parts untill they have been proven bad. Does the LA140 have fuses? If so check them first.


Ken

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Also be very carfull with motor running you may wiggle a wire and the blades could start moving. To be safe you could remove the blades. To prove the clutch good you can take a wire and hook one end to the pos. side of battery and touch the other end of the wire to the clutch feed wire ( this will bypass every thing ) and see if it clicks do this with motor off so you can hear it if it does not it could still need a ground. Sometimes they use a ground wire or use the metal part of the clutch body as the ground.

Ken

bollingball said:

FHH Yes I often work by myself so I jump the safety out while testing. How many wires are on that plug? I don't have that mower or a print for it. You will need to find what wire has the 12v to feed the clutch and also make sure it has a good clean and tight ground. If you can post a photo it may help. My 2012 Z445 has a 7.5 amp fuse for the PTO clutch See if you have one and check to prove it is good. If you do not have power and fuse is good next would be to check the switch. See if you have power going to the Sw. then turn it on and see if you have power out.

Ken

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Hi Ken,
There are three wires...two black ones and a yellow wire. There is a picture in this forum that I have seen with this same problem. I will try to find it and post it. I only saw one fuse (like an automobile fuse) that was a 20 amp fuse near the ignition and battery. Is the fuse in your machine an inline fuse that is not visible outside the wire? If so, I may need to look more thoroughly. I can also find the wiring diagram which should also help in that regard. I'm a little out of my element (I'm an accountant) but trying to be a mower repair guy. I should be able to try this test this evening when I get home then report back. Thanks again!

Best regards,
Frank (FHH)

FHH said:

Hi Ken,
There are three wires...two black ones and a yellow wire. There is a picture in this forum that I have seen with this same problem. I will try to find it and post it. I only saw one fuse (like an automobile fuse) that was a 20 amp fuse near the ignition and battery. Is the fuse in your machine an inline fuse that is not visible outside the wire? If so, I may need to look more thoroughly. I can also find the wiring diagram which should also help in that regard. I'm a little out of my element (I'm an accountant) but trying to be a mower repair guy. I should be able to try this test this evening when I get home then report back. Thanks again!

Best regards,
Frank (FHH)

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Looks like you have one main fuse My mower has a fuse block like on a car with 5 or 6 fuses most of the newer ones are like that now. If you can post the print we can figure this out. I have scouts tonight with my son so it will be later for a reply.

Ken

Hi Ken,

Attached is the picture of the plug. I borrowed it from another forum but this is how my PTO plug looked the first time it broke. Eventually I replaced the entire wiring harness (this past weekend). I had my son's baseball game last night so I didn't get to test the clutch as you suggested. I will do that tonight. During lunch today I will find the schematic and post it.

Thanks again for your help!

Frank

Morning Frank hope the game turned out good. I sent you a private message I think it worked was my first time on this site check it out and let me know if it worked. That plug is coming from the main harness correct? On your clutch does it have a wire pigtail? Or is the connector hard mounted on the clutch?

Ken

black wires are ground, the other is 12 volt to clutch. with start switch on, pto switch on, jumper wire on seat. check 12 volt to neg. battery, machine frame and to the plug. should have 12 volts all 3 places on your meter. if you do check your clutch then, might have a bad ground. make sure your positive wire is going to your starter and the neg. goes to ground.

bollingball said:

Morning Frank hope the game turned out good. I sent you a private message I think it worked was my first time on this site check it out and let me know if it worked. That plug is coming from the main harness correct? On your clutch does it have a wire pigtail? Or is the connector hard mounted on the clutch?

Ken

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Hi Ken,
Well, we lost but that's okay. Just fun to play the game. I got the message and I understand your point. Thank you very much for the offer. Here's what I did tonight. There is some sort of logic to it in my brain but perhaps not to anyone else. First I checked the new battery once again and it shows 12.54 volts. I disconnected the pigtail from the PTO clutch and, not starting the engine, checked the voltage. Zero of course as it should have been. I turned the key to the On position without cranking and again tested the voltage. Still zero as it should be. Then I pulled the PTO switch and instantly the meter went to 11.99 volts. All of this without being cranked. I think that tells me that juice is getting to the clutch. This is the part that I may need to have cranked the engine (but it wasn't a good idea with neighbors at midnight when I was doing this. I took the old wiring harness and cut off the pigtail from it then stripped the positive wire end and plugged the old pigtail onto the clutch. I then took my jumper cables and connected the red cable to the positive terminal on the battery and the other end to the stripped wire. Nothing moved. I turned the ignition on and pulled the PTO switch and nothing changed. I realize I may actually need to have that cranked to work as you mentioned but thought I would try silent mode first. I will try it with the motor running in the morning before work. Do you think the first test result, getting voltage at the new pigtail with the ignition on and the switch on is valid to show that it isn't the PTO switch? I'm attaching photos of the battery area where that one fuse is located and one photo of the PTO clutch area in case that helps as well. I will post what happens when I try the jumper cable test with it running unless there's a reason not to proceed with that. Thanks again!

Frank

rbroug said:

black wires are ground, the other is 12 volt to clutch. with start switch on, pto switch on, jumper wire on seat. check 12 volt to neg. battery, machine frame and to the plug. should have 12 volts all 3 places on your meter. if you do check your clutch then, might have a bad ground. make sure your positive wire is going to your starter and the neg. goes to ground.

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Hi Rbroug,
Just a quick question on cable positions...where would each end of the jumper wire to the seat go? I pulled that plug and it has some very unusual looking prongs compared to the other connectors. With the start switch on and the PTO switch on but without the engine running, which is what I was mentioning to Ken, there is voltage at the pigtail that plugs onto the PTO clutch. Trying to understand the connections you're suggesting so I do it right the first time. Thanks!
Frank

Frank With your test results that tells me you do not need to run the motor that is good. Now when you got your 11.99v Where did you have the black test lead on your meter? This is what Rbroug was referring to. You need to have it on one on both of the black wires on the harness connectors. This will tell you the ground is (maybe) good going to the clutch. You may still need to clean it really good. If you have 12 volts and a good ground on the harness connector then we need to check the clutch. If this proves good then we need to check the resistance of the coil in the clutch with the ohm setting on your meter. I don't know what it should read. We will have to try and find this. Maybe someone reading this will chime in with the spec. Mean while check it if it is 0 Then we know it is open and no good.

Ken

bollingball said:

Frank With your test results that tells me you do not need to run the motor that is good. Now when you got your 11.99v Where did you have the black test lead on your meter? This is what Rbroug was referring to. You need to have it on one on both of the black wires on the harness connectors. This will tell you the ground is (maybe) good going to the clutch. You may still need to clean it really good. If you have 12 volts and a good ground on the harness connector then we need to check the clutch. If this proves good then we need to check the resistance of the coil in the clutch with the ohm setting on your meter. I don't know what it should read. We will have to try and find this. Maybe someone reading this will chime in with the spec. Mean while check it if it is 0 Then we know it is open and no good.

Ken

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Good morning Ken,
Late hours again yesterday but blessed to have a job. To answer your question, I was checking the voltage at the pigtail that comes from the new wiring harness to the PTO clutch. The yellow wire terminates in a crimped terminal on one side of the pigtail and the two black wires terminate in a crimped connector on the other side of the pigtail. There is a plastic divider between the two. I touched the black probe of my meter on the terminal with the black wires and the red probe on the terminal with the yellow wires. The connector is very clean because it's brand new and hasn't been used in a grass cutting mode yet unfortunately. A quick question on checking the resistance of the coil. Forgive my ignorance but I'm assuming the coil you refer to is the part onto which the pigtail plugs? If so, I'm also then assuming I follow the same basic procedure (ignition on, switch on, probes touching the respective negative and positive sides of the coil)? Sorry to be dense on this topic. As always, thanks for your time and help.

Frank

FHH said:

Good morning Ken,
Late hours again yesterday but blessed to have a job. To answer your question, I was checking the voltage at the pigtail that comes from the new wiring harness to the PTO clutch. The yellow wire terminates in a crimped terminal on one side of the pigtail and the two black wires terminate in a crimped connector on the other side of the pigtail. There is a plastic divider between the two. I touched the black probe of my meter on the terminal with the black wires and the red probe on the terminal with the yellow wires. The connector is very clean because it's brand new and hasn't been used in a grass cutting mode yet unfortunately. A quick question on checking the resistance of the coil. Forgive my ignorance but I'm assuming the coil you refer to is the part onto which the pigtail plugs? If so, I'm also then assuming I follow the same basic procedure (ignition on, switch on, probes touching the respective negative and positive sides of the coil)? Sorry to be dense on this topic. As always, thanks for your time and help.

Frank

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Frank NO NO you do not whant the power on when checking ohms you can burn your meter up or at the very least blow the fuse in it . There is a wire coil wound inside that clutch so it will be unpluged to test. It it acts like a magnet when the power is put to it and you have power. I hate to say it but it looks like yours may be shot But some of them have a adjustment on them. I don't know about yours You could take it off and take it to your JD dealer and have them check. First see if one of your ohm settings on your meter has a beeper on it when you touch the leads togeather it will beep. Most do have this. If yours does set it to this mode and touch the meter leads to the two prongs on the clutch where the new wire would plug in and see if it beeps if it does not beep it is shot. You will save a lot of money if you change it out but have them check it if you are not sure. That is all it can be if you have power and a ground. IMHO

Ken

you can do as i did, run wires off your pto to the battery it should click if it's good. if you lost the ground on the pto it wont work but you will have power to it. if you have a bad wire you can get 12v on a wire but not have the amps to run it.

rbroug said:

you can do as i did, run wires off your pto to the battery it should click if it's good. if you lost the ground on the pto it wont work but you will have power to it. if you have a bad wire you can get 12v on a wire but not have the amps to run it.

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Read post #7

bollingball said:

Read post #7

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Thanks for the info and for the safety reminder. Thanks also for saving my multimeter. I will probably need to elevate the front end of the mower somewhat because access to clearly see what I'm doing with that coiil isn't available from just a level position combined with my reading glasses. Just to be prepared for the worst, I will probably call the dealer today and see how much a PTO clutch is for this model. One other thought...since i still have that old pigtail that i cut from the main wiring harness, shouldn't I be able to remove the insulation from the black wires and yellow wire and plug it into the PTO clutch and then use the muiltimeter to test it IF I can verify that old pigtail is actually still workiing? Just a thought. Thanks again!

Frank

rbroug said:

you can do as i did, run wires off your pto to the battery it should click if it's good. if you lost the ground on the pto it wont work but you will have power to it. if you have a bad wire you can get 12v on a wire but not have the amps to run it.

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Thanks for the tip. If I can't figure it out with the meter, I will remove the blades (probably need to be removed anyway and changed) and test it with a jumper. I appreciate the help.

Frank

FHH said:

Thanks for the info and for the safety reminder. Thanks also for saving my multimeter. I will probably need to elevate the front end of the mower somewhat because access to clearly see what I'm doing with that coiil isn't available from just a level position combined with my reading glasses. Just to be prepared for the worst, I will probably call the dealer today and see how much a PTO clutch is for this model. One other thought...since i still have that old pigtail that i cut from the main wiring harness, shouldn't I be able to remove the insulation from the black wires and yellow wire and plug it into the PTO clutch and then use the muiltimeter to test it IF I can verify that old pigtail is actually still workiing? Just a thought. Thanks again!

Frank

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Frank Yes if the wires are OK you can use the old pig tail. If you splice some longer wires to it you can run them to the battery and by pass everything like mentioned by rbroug.If you don't here it click then you have found your problem no need to run the motor.

Ken

bollingball said:

Frank Yes if the wires are OK you can use the old pig tail. If you splice some longer wires to it you can run them to the battery and by pass everything like mentioned by rbroug.If you don't here it click then you have found your problem no need to run the motor.

Ken

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Hi Ken,

The clutch coil did not pass the continuity test. I tried it with and without the pigtail and it didn't work either way. I didn't call the dealer to check prices but I did look online. There was even a new one on eBay for $164 plus shipping. I hope that's it...a little on the expensive side. It has rained so much here over the past few days that I won't be able to mow anyway so I will probably run the jumper test again without the pigtail just to make sure. To do that, I'm also assuming the power can/should be off?

Thanks!
Frank

FHH said:

Hi Ken,

The clutch coil did not pass the continuity test. I tried it with and without the pigtail and it didn't work either way. I didn't call the dealer to check prices but I did look online. There was even a new one on eBay for $164 plus shipping. I hope that's it...a little on the expensive side. It has rained so much here over the past few days that I won't be able to mow anyway so I will probably run the jumper test again without the pigtail just to make sure. To do that, I'm also assuming the power can/should be off?

Thanks!
Frank

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Hi Ken,

Thank you very much for all your help. I was able to purchase the PTO clutch this weekend. Just to make sure it would work I ended up taking the meter to the shop to test it before I bought it since they don't accept returns on electrical parts. I brought it home and installed it (pain in the butt...almost as bad as getting the old one off). It works perfectly. So, for the price of a service call and the clutch, I was able to get a battery, a voltage regulator, and a clutch. The wiring harness put me over what it would have cost me for the call and the clutch but that's okay because I really think the mower is good to go for a while. I appreciate your guiding me along here since I didn't know what I was doing.

Best regards,
Frank

I'm having a similar problem with my L130. was cutting and blades stopped for no apparent reason. thought it was pto switch so took one
out of my 155 it worked for about 50 feet and quit again now that switch won't work in the 155. will a bad clutch cause this switch failure?