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john deere jx75 drains fuel between moving

#1

A

apoc330

We have a john deere jx75 date code 062305 that we have been using for probably a decade or so. Was a hand me down from my father-in-law. When we fill it up and mow and then put it away in the storage shed between mowings, it is completely empty. I have noticed there is a thickish build up of dirt and oily substance on the side that the carb is on but i don't really see a leak unless it's coming from the tank.

The carb was replaced about 5 years ago but I don't think its the original equipment because the brand is a walbro and I don't think that's correct so I am leaning toward the issue being there somewhere but looking for suggestions. I will add some pictures now that I have removed the carb to clean it and the tank to check for leaks.

C2DAF767-D841-4459-AA28-CEC8D0DC3589.jpegC4FB828F-E738-401A-8090-7E312671934B.jpeg4EA47378-3432-4036-ADAF-F7C8AEA8BA89.jpegC4FB828F-E738-401A-8090-7E312671934B.jpeg4EA47378-3432-4036-ADAF-F7C8AEA8BA89.jpeg


#2

R

Rivets

The cause of the problem is probably a bad float needle and seat. Time to clean and rebuild the carb, installing a new float needle and seat, part number 398188. If you cannot level the float properly you may have to replace the float. Here is the procedure I have used for many years.
Needle and seat replacement.

Remove the carb, and then remove the float bowl. Check the float bowl jet (which is the bowl screw) and make sure the jets both horizontal and vertical are clean and open. Tip the carb upside down and remove the float pin and float with needle attached. Look in the float needle passage and you should see the red float seat at the bottom of the passage. This is where a #5 crotchet hook would come in handy as you need to remove this seat. If you have no hook, but compressed air, you can blow through the fuel inlet and try to pop the seat out. Put your thumb over the passage to prevent the seat from flying who knows where. No air or hook try bending a stiff paper clip to dig the seat out.

I would either give the carb a good 24 hour soaking or have it ultrasonically cleaned at this time.

With the seat out clean the passage way with carb cleaner. Now you must find a drill bit slightly smaller than the passage way, to be used to press in the new seat. Apply a very, very small amount of a very light lube to the new seat. 3-1 oil or lighter, to help seat it better. Carefully insert the new seat in the passage way with the rings on the seat down toward the carb body. Slowly and carefully force the seat down with the back end of the drill bit. Once it is seated, check to see that it did not flip and the rings are up. Next check to make sure that the float does not have any liquid in it. If it does, replace. If everything looks correct, attach the new needle to the float and install with the float pin centered. It everything is correct, the float should seat level to the carb body, when looking at it upside down. If everything looks good reattach the float bowl, making sure that both the bowl gasket and the nut gasket seal properly. Reinstall on the engine and test unit. Remember to have patience and take your time. Good luck, but I don't think you'll need it.

PS: On the side of some Tecumseh carbs you will find a plastic cover. Under this cover will be an idle jet. Remove it and check to see that the jet is open both horizontally and vertically. You should be able to push the old float needle wire through the vertical opening.


#3

upupandaway

upupandaway

Rivets said:
The cause of the problem is probably a bad float needle and seat.
Click to expand...
Last time i checked, the needle has the rubber tip so there is no seat to replace.


#4

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

JX75's used a FC150v and also used a FJ180V.. but i do agree Rivets that the float or needle is bad in the carburetor.


#5

R

Rivets

I may be (probably) wrong, but I didn’t think Walbro built carbs for Kawasaki. If the needle has a viton tip then you still follow the same procedure just using different parts.


#6

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

Rivets said:
I may be (probably) wrong, but I didn’t think Walbro built carbs for Kawasaki. If the needle has a viton tip then you still follow the same procedure just using different parts.
Click to expand...
Yeah, most older Kawasaki's i've seen use a Mikuni carb. not sure about current models though


#7

A

apoc330

Rivets said:
The cause of the problem is probably a bad float needle and seat. Time to clean and rebuild the carb, installing a new float needle and seat, part number 398188. If you cannot level the float properly you may have to replace the float. Here is the procedure I have used for many years.
Needle and seat replacement.

Remove the carb, and then remove the float bowl. Check the float bowl jet (which is the bowl screw) and make sure the jets both horizontal and vertical are clean and open. Tip the carb upside down and remove the float pin and float with needle attached. Look in the float needle passage and you should see the red float seat at the bottom of the passage. This is where a #5 crotchet hook would come in handy as you need to remove this seat. If you have no hook, but compressed air, you can blow through the fuel inlet and try to pop the seat out. Put your thumb over the passage to prevent the seat from flying who knows where. No air or hook try bending a stiff paper clip to dig the seat out.

I would either give the carb a good 24 hour soaking or have it ultrasonically cleaned at this time.

With the seat out clean the passage way with carb cleaner. Now you must find a drill bit slightly smaller than the passage way, to be used to press in the new seat. Apply a very, very small amount of a very light lube to the new seat. 3-1 oil or lighter, to help seat it better. Carefully insert the new seat in the passage way with the rings on the seat down toward the carb body. Slowly and carefully force the seat down with the back end of the drill bit. Once it is seated, check to see that it did not flip and the rings are up. Next check to make sure that the float does not have any liquid in it. If it does, replace. If everything looks correct, attach the new needle to the float and install with the float pin centered. It everything is correct, the float should seat level to the carb body, when looking at it upside down. If everything looks good reattach the float bowl, making sure that both the bowl gasket and the nut gasket seal properly. Reinstall on the engine and test unit. Remember to have patience and take your time. Good luck, but I don't think you'll need it.

PS: On the side of some Tecumseh carbs you will find a plastic cover. Under this cover will be an idle jet. Remove it and check to see that the jet is open both horizontally and vertically. You should be able to push the old float needle wire through the vertical opening.
Click to expand...
Thanks Rivets, this is great information and really appreciate the part number and more importantly the process.


#8

A

apoc330

Scrubcadet10 said:
Yeah, most older Kawasaki's i've seen use a Mikuni carb. not sure about current models though
Click to expand...
Thanks Scrubcadet10, that’s what I thought to but I’m going to check and see what I can find. Looks like green tractor parts.com sales a replacement so I will check with them on the manufacturer since I believe they sell oem.


#9

G

gainestruk

One thing I haven’t seen is check the engine oil, if overfull be sure and change it before starting engine.


#10

B

BrianSki

gainestruk said:
One thing I haven’t seen is check the engine oil, if overfull be sure and change it before starting engine.
Click to expand...
Great idea!! Gas can leak down in the oil and thin the oil.

A couple things. It looks like a lot of grass and dust on the engine. Make sure the engine is blown off, so it does not effect the cooling of the engine. Check to see if the air filter is good/clean.

I have had quite a few engines leak down when parked. The posters above are correct with the needle problems. Personally if the engine is running good, I just put in a 1/4 turn shut off valve in the fuel line. Easy to do. With a note on dash to shut off fuel when done. The valves are a few bucks. All the mower shops have them. I even think you can find the valve in the mower section at the big box stores.

One of these....

Amazon.com : Briggs & Stratton 698183 Fuel Shut-Off Valve For Quantum and Selected Models, In-Line Valve,Black : Lawn Mower Fuel Lines : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Amazon.com : Briggs & Stratton 698183 Fuel Shut-Off Valve For Quantum and Selected Models, In-Line Valve,Black : Lawn Mower Fuel Lines : Patio, Lawn & Garden
www.amazon.com


#11

S

SamD

Doesn't the JX75 use a fuel cutoff switch like the 14 series Deere mowers (14SB, etc)? If so, try cutting off the fuel flow to the carb after mowing.


#12

A

apoc330

I have found out a couple of things, Waldron did make carbs for this engine so it is stock. I went ahead and replaced it since after talking to my father in-law that gave me the mower said he had never had it serviced

I put the new carb on and tested for leaks and so far no fuel leaks after sitting for a week. I did a thorough cleaning before changing the carb. I put fresh gas and it started right up and ran well, just letting it idle.

now the problem is when I start it up it starts running first pull but when up move it off the choke it starts surging and I can see the choke going back and forth. Not sure what would cause that, any suggestions???


#13

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

Shouldn't be the choke moving, should be the governor arm moving the throttle.
surging is lean running, usually a fuel blockage, or leaking intake gasket.


#14

A

apoc330

Scrubcadet10 said:
Shouldn't be the choke moving, should be the governor arm moving the throttle.
surging is lean running, usually a fuel blockage, or leaking intake gasket.
Click to expand...
You’re right governor arm. I’ve ordered some gaskets because one of them looked a little worn so hopefully that will get it back running smooth. Thanks for the help Scrubcadet10.


#15

A

apoc330

just wanted to give an update. It was a bad gasket causing the issues, it was torn and partially blocking the inlet so I put new gaskets and it now runs like a new mower!!! Thanks for all of the help everyone gave it is much appreciated.


#16

B

BrianSki

Thanks for the update. Most of the time you are left wondering what happened.


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