John Deere J38 Push Mower quit working

TC93

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We have a John Deere J38 Push mower that has a Briggs motor in it... which has the auto choke or whatever its called on it and no ball to prime it.

Last week I mowed the entire back yard just fine, but did notice smoking when I first started the mower. I have had that in the past, and it always stops smoking shortly after. I think because the oil was filled a little higher than it should be. Although it smoked more than usual that day.

By the time I got to the front yard it just quit running. Whenever I tried to restart it, all I would get is one backfire and it wouldn't even try to run.

So I ended up replacing the spark plug, changed the filter, replaced the gasoline with fresh gas. It still would only backfire on the first pull and not start.

So then I replaced the entire carburetor and changed the oil. I had the exact same problem again with the one backfire. Then I tried adding a little gas inside the spark plug and now it won't even backfire, it just rotates not trying to start. Its very hard getting gas into the small hole though.

Does anyone have any idea of what I should be looking at? I wouldn't even be doing all this if the repair shops around here didn't take over a month to get the mower back. One shop even stopped accepting more work.
 

mechanic mark

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TC93

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Here is my Model #128M02-0423-F1

Although what you mentioned I doubt I would be able to do. I may just have to take it in some place and leave it there.

After sitting a while it is back to doing the one backfire when I pull the cord. Would a sheared flywheel key cause this also? I was tempted to look but am worried about getting the nut screwed on correctly for the correct tightness, when putting it back on.

I do not have the kickback though that I see mentioned so much for a sheared flywheel key.
 

mechanic mark

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Here is my Model #128M02-0423-F1

Although what you mentioned I doubt I would be able to do. I may just have to take it in some place and leave it there.

After sitting a while it is back to doing the one backfire when I pull the cord. Would a sheared flywheel key cause this also? I was tempted to look but am worried about getting the nut screwed on correctly for the correct tightness, when putting it back on.

I do not have the kickback though that I see mentioned so much for a sheared flywheel key.


https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=B&S SHEARED KEY watch youtube videos & see if you think you can do procedure.
 

TC93

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Just wanted to update my thread. I started to take it apart to check the key, but gave up because I didn't have the right tools to get to it.

We took the mower to a place that fixes them, and he told us we would need a whole new engine. Its a John Deere push mower that is only 2 years old. The notes on his repair invoice says that "the problem is that the exhaust guide is out of the block" (whatever that means, I don't know).

We will end up having to get a new mower.
 

mechanic mark

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Just wanted to update my thread. I started to take it apart to check the key, but gave up because I didn't have the right tools to get to it.

We took the mower to a place that fixes them, and he told us we would need a whole new engine. Its a John Deere push mower that is only 2 years old. The notes on his repair invoice says that "the problem is that the exhaust guide is out of the block" (whatever that means, I don't know).

We will end up having to get a new mower.

Make sure you get your mower back. Check your warranty & see if you purchased extended warranty. It's hard for me to believe a two year old engine is shot unless you did not keep up with oil level & air filter. I'd take it back where you purchased it with ticket & see what they have to say.

Results your engine manual
 
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