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I am stumped with this mower. It will start if I jump it, but will not start on it's own. I put a brand new battery in it and it still will not start. I can't understand why it will start by jumping it, but won't start on its own. I've checked the battery posts, connections, etc. Anybody got any ideas ?

Can you jump the solenoid and it tries to start?

billylee said:

I am stumped with this mower. It will start if I jump it, but will not start on it's own. I put a brand new battery in it and it still will not start. I can't understand why it will start by jumping it, but won't start on its own. I've checked the battery posts, connections, etc. Anybody got any ideas ?

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Yes I agree with Blaze on checking the solenoid.......... But 1 ????? How are you jumping it ?? Battery to Battery ??

If your solenoid is good and ALL connections are good, EVEN the ground to your frame or engine, then it might be time for a valve adjustment...

Is it a Briggs mower with the over head valves ??? Single cylinder or V Twin ?? Having to jump a brand new battery is a symptom of loose valves or a ACR laying in the bottom of your engine sump / crankcase cover.....

Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!

Wow you the X475 I was thinking the lower quality JD ..... You might have the Big VTwin Kawi on yours..... A lot of those came with the Kawi's on them ....

Man You got a great tractor right there ~!~!

Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!

Are we talking about a mower than will not crank unless you jump it, or will crank but won't start unless you have the extra power of a jump.

Part of the time it will start, it grinds and grinds like it wants to start, but just won't. It is the Kawasaki motor.

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:

Yes I agree with Blaze on checking the solenoid.......... But 1 ????? How are you jumping it ?? Battery to Battery ??

If your solenoid is good and ALL connections are good, EVEN the ground to your frame or engine, then it might be time for a valve adjustment...

Is it a Briggs mower with the over head valves ??? Single cylinder or V Twin ?? Having to jump a brand new battery is a symptom of loose valves or a ACR laying in the bottom of your engine sump / crankcase cover.....

Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!

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It is a Kawasaki motor, twin, water cooled. It cranks like it wants to start, just won't. Part of the time it will start.

I am getting this strange feeling that I would be swapping out the ignition modules. I seem some strange things with Kaw ignition modules. Like have the engine running at full speed and ground one plug and it will kill the engine like you have a bad module, but doesn't matter what module your ground because either one will kill the engine.. Or remove one plug wire and it doesn't matter which one, and it will not start. Normally when I remove then they have rust swollen laminations or the epoxy around the kill wire tab will be cracked and will not fire the plug if the humidity is high.

It’s possible your starter is dragging and able to spin faster with the extra cranking amps. Or like stated above the valves may be loose and not opening fully to relieve the pressure in the chamber correctly.

Mow Life I don't think this engine is doing like the Briggs with a loose valve,,... For the ACR This Kawasaki engine design is a totally different animal than Briggs.......

I agree with IL Engine He owns a big shop and deals with those Kawis more than I do...... I wish he could do a video on how it's acting.. Somrtimes what one describes another person thinks the another way.....Especially on the starting on engines ......

Thanks for clearing me up....I’m very old school and think that way most of the time.

Me too I get stuck on certain things..... I was thiking Briggs also, but it's not always a Briggs on JD's.... I was speed reading myself and didn't pay attention to the model number.... Those ain't the cheapo Depot models for sure......A real JD made by JD and not AYP......

Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!