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JD X580 using a lot of gas when mowing

I have 2022 JD X580 with 18 hours on it. I am using a lot of gas when mowing at full throttle. The dealer said to put the rpm just in the green on the tack and if the mower runs good then cut there.

I did this and the mower ran good did not use as much gas but did not cut the grass good.

When run at full throttle the engine and mower sound good and it cuts the grass really good so I guess I will have to cut at full throttle and put the extra gas in?

I have one flat acer with fairly good lawn a lot of flower beds to go around and usually can cut the grass twice before refueling this take just over an hour, (4.4 gal)

At the time I purchased this JD I did not know about the X590 being fuel injected if that would have helped.

I Like my John Deere! It being new has 7-year 600 hours warrantee so not worried about anything.

Checking with reflective tape and a tachometer

RPM checked taken from the screen covering the flywheel and from a pulley on the mower deck.

Engine idle with no mower on, 1908 rpm.
Just in the green engine rpm 2838 mower rpm 3250
Full throttle engine rpm 3248 mower 3895

Any suggestions????????

Pull the plugs and take a look at their color. If they are black and have a carbon build up, the engine is running rich and needs to be adjusted. If they are not black it looks like you will have to live with it. As a side note, I have my doubts about your dealer. I’ve always instructed my customers to cut at full throttle, that’s is where the unit is designed to do its best work.

johnorlandi said:

JD X580 using a lot of gas when mowing

I have 2022 JD X580 with 18 hours on it. I am using a lot of gas when mowing at full throttle. The dealer said to put the rpm just in the green on the tack and if the mower runs good then cut there.

I did this and the mower ran good did not use as much gas but did not cut the grass good.

When run at full throttle the engine and mower sound good and it cuts the grass really good so I guess I will have to cut at full throttle and put the extra gas in?

I have one flat acer with fairly good lawn a lot of flower beds to go around and usually can cut the grass twice before refueling this take just over an hour, (4.4 gal)

At the time I purchased this JD I did not know about the X590 being fuel injected if that would have helped.

I Like my John Deere! It being new has 7-year 600 hours warrantee so not worried about anything.

Checking with reflective tape and a tachometer

RPM checked taken from the screen covering the flywheel and from a pulley on the mower deck.

Engine idle with no mower on, 1908 rpm.
Just in the green engine rpm 2838 mower rpm 3250
Full throttle engine rpm 3248 mower 3895

Any suggestions????????

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I had a Husqvarna YT42DXLS with auto locking tranny that I adored - except after the tranny brackets broke twice in a year. Tranny literally fell down to the ground! Fixed it twice, then sold it to a neighbor. Bought a 42" deck JD X-370 w/Kawasaki engine, hydraulic deck lift, armrests, bumper, all the bells and whistles. It set me back over 6K but does a wonderful job. To compensate for the loss of diff lock, I bought 2 45# weights for the rear. I mow 1.5 acres, but about 1/4 of that is very steep - too steep to mow across and ruling out a ZT, rocks to mow around, furrows, etc. To your point: Mine too uses a lot of gas, probably close to 1 gal./hr. The Husky used waaaaay less gas. I'm OK with that. But the best thing about the JD is the POWER STEERING. If you've never experienced it, it is a godsend for a guy with arthritic hands/fingers/wrists and a titanium shoulder. Also, the 90lbs. of weight no doubt figure into the gas use - along with my body weight of 160lbs. I love my JD X-370 (about 70 hrs. now)!
One more thing: you should never tow or mow with the throttle in any position other than wide open! There are a bunch of reasons why that I won't get in the weeds about, just trust me - or google it. Happy cutting!

This is the first post I've seen about these new mega mowers using a lot of gas. Thanks for bringing it up.

These are not car engines. Max revs all the time. Soon as that engine gets spinning give her the beans.

Be glad you didn't get an EFI machine. They look good on paper. When they fail $$$$.

This gas sucking issue is another reason the wife and I use push mowers. And the free exercise. My rider sits in the garage all alone.

Adding JD plates will only wear the machine out quicker. Adds a ton more stress to the drive system and heat. What is needed in this case is a 4x4 Kubota. Right tool for the job.

slomo said:

This is the first post I've seen about these new mega mowers using a lot of gas. Thanks for bringing it up.

These are not car engines. Max revs all the time. Soon as that engine gets spinning give her the beans.

Be glad you didn't get an EFI machine. They look good on paper. When they fail $$$$.

This gas sucking issue is another reason the wife and I use push mowers. And the free exercise. My rider sits in the garage all alone.

Adding JD plates will only wear the machine out quicker. Adds a ton more stress to the drive system and heat. What is needed in this case is a 4x4 Kubota. Right tool for the job.

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I feel you, slo, but logic tells me that my weight (160lbs.) + the weights (90lbs.total) is no different than a 250 lb. person operating it with no weights . . .Good deal on the push mowers - great way to get exercise and break a good sweat (especially now)! Haven't checked on Kubota's 4x4 s, but my wife would have a cow if they're priced like I suspect they are!! I'm 72 and hoping this JD will be the last tractor I have to buy - we'll see. Be well!

Hey slomo:
I checked out Kubota. What I found is that they don't make a 4x4 "lawn tractor", only a 4x4 "garden tractor" - way, way more machine than I need, and the clincher is, aside from the cost (which I never could find - even AI couldn't), is no power steering. That nixes it in the cradle for me. Just FYI But thanks for your input . . .Cheers!

Rivets are 3 pictures of my plugs; right side looks a little sooty. I mowed today just over an hour, at full throttle it runs great, but you can see the gas gauge go down, some. If I have to put in more gas than usual I will for it does a great job, I like my machine.

That right one is definitely running rich. If it is still under warranty I’d be showing the dealer your pictures and ask them what they are going to do about it. You definitely have a problem.

Swap plugs, run it at max revs. Pull the plugs and see if the cleaner one gets some carbon on her.

johnorlandi said:

with 18 hours on it. I am using a lot of gas when mowing at full throttle.

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When you get more hours on the engine, it should get better on gas.. Both my Kawasaki's did..

And as to the one plug showing richer. the crankcase vent is on the R. side of the intake manifold to engine..Least mine is.

7394 said:

When you get more hours on the engine, it should get better on gas.. Both my Kawasaki's did..

And as to the one plug showing richer. the crankcase vent is on the R. side of the intake manifold to engine..Least mine is.

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Always run a small engine at wide open throttle. 2800 RPMs isn’t going to give you the quality of cut, be good on the hydros, or keep the oil and fan circulating like you need.

Tiger Small Engine said:

Always run a small engine at wide open throttle. 2800 RPMs isn’t going to give you the quality of cut, be good on the hydros, or keep the oil and fan circulating like you need.

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What he said.

Tiger Small Engine said:

Always run a small engine at wide open throttle. 2800 RPMs isn’t going to give you the quality of cut, be good on the hydros, or keep the oil and fan circulating like you need.

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Why ya quote me ?

called the dealer.
Consensus in the shop is one of two options- Running on the one cylinder only, or over fueling- Both options have several things to look at, so can't give an accurate "this is it" from the spark plug pics.

Welcome to bring it down, or we can come and get it.

going in Tuesday will let you know what they find if anything.

Rivets said:

Pull the plugs and take a look at their color. If they are black and have a carbon build up, the engine is running rich and needs to be adjusted. If they are not black it looks like you will have to live with it. As a side note, I have my doubts about your dealer. I’ve always instructed my customers to cut at full throttle, that’s is where the unit is designed to do its best work.

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wide open throttle, all the time. Same experience. I would just add that usually a rich running engine will also blow sooty black exhaust. If you place a piece of carboard taped to part of the frame where the exhaust blows out, over time it will turn very black and have a sooty almost dusty like coating.

here are some of the things that can cause a mower engine to run rich:

malfunctioned carb...maybe some factory mistake? maybe the main jet lost a rubber seal or even missing? there is a hidden air needle "valve"..usually located at the top of the carb, sometimes covered by a dummy welch plug. (this is rare, but sometimes the factory sets this hidden air needle "valve" incorrectly...

the choke valve might be stuck closed or will not open all the way...restricting the flow of air into the carb

the air filter is fouled, or something within the air filter box and plenum is blocking air flow.

fuel leak somewhere? look for any kind of pin hole in fuel lines, or leaking fuel line connections to the tank, fuel filter, fuel pump, carb. Especially notice the fuel line rubber grommet that connects to the tank....make sure fuel is not leaking there or from a tank leak or a loose cap where fuel sloshes up and out or evaporates when stored.

weak spark plug ...gap might be too wide...or inadequate ignition module energy..

does the oil smells like fuel? is it thin and runny? if so, it's possible that fuel is getting past the piston rings into the crank case. the piston rings need to be staggered ..they the butt ends all line up, you can have unburned fuel getting past the rings. But usually if this is excessive it will cause engine performance problems like low power...or surging.and the governor surging...excessive oil in the oil breather that reaches the air filter may be due to overfill of oil, but can also be fuel getting past the piston into the crank

valves are not lashed properly, or automatic compression release device on cam is borked. If the valves are not set correctly....even just one valve in one cylinder can cause a 4 cycle timing problem...usually this presents also as a drop in performance, misfires, surging. A leak down test for bad valve lash and worn or incorrectly installed piston rings can help identify the problems without removing the head cylinders.

and finally...

My FR600V 18 hp Kawasaki consumes 1/2 gallon per hour at full throttle.

Cajun power said:

the air filter is fouled, or something within the air filter box and plenum is blocking air flow.

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That would affect both spark plugs, not just one....

for reference the fr730V should consume about 1.2-1.6 gallons per hour. It all depends on the weight of the machine plus rider AND pto/blade/hydro load. Your JD in base model, no implements, towing nothing, weighs 777 pounds with no fuel in the tank. You are probably near 950-1000 pounds of weight after fuel and rider. So i would imagine a 25 hp naturally aspirated v twin kawasaki is going to consume at least the upper end of that 1.6 gallons per hour. My opinion is that if it's over 2.0 gallons an hour, there is definitely something wrong going on and that cannot be related to new engine breakin...you would never see a factory engine consuming so much fuel during engine breakin. You might have a factory dud! If you have a warranty, I would take it back and have them do a full test of every single load bearing system..spark plugs out and free hand the rotation to see if there is unusual resistance to rotation....leak down test...carb test...static and dynamic...see if the hydros are borked (unloaded off the ground)...axles/bearings....pto engagement and bearing problems...is the deck hydrodraulic lift system operating correctly...then do a tank and fuel line test...look for leaks.

something is definitely wrong and you should not be consuming that much fuel in a new machine, even at nearly 1,000 pounds.

Cajun power said:

for reference the fr730V should consume about 1.2-1.6 gallons per hour. It all depends on the weight of the machine plus rider AND pto/blade/hydro load. Your JD in base model, no implements, towing nothing, weighs 777 pounds with no fuel in the tank. You are probably near 950-1000 pounds of weight after fuel and rider. So i would imagine a 25 hp naturally aspirated v twin kawasaki is going to consume at least the upper end of that 1.6 gallons per hour. My opinion is that if it's over 2.0 gallons an hour, there is definitely something wrong going on and that cannot be related to new engine breakin...you would never see a factory engine consuming so much fuel during engine breakin. You might have a factory dud! If you have a warranty, I would take it back and have them do a full test of every single load bearing system..spark plugs out and free hand the rotation to see if there is unusual resistance to rotation....leak down test...carb test...static and dynamic...see if the hydros are borked (unloaded off the ground)...axles/bearings....pto engagement and bearing problems...is the deck hydrodraulic lift system operating correctly...then do a tank and fuel line test...look for leaks.

something is definitely wrong and you should not be consuming that much fuel in a new machine, even at nearly 1,000 pounds.

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also look at each blade spindle and free spin them..same with belt tensioner...should all spin freely with little resistance.

the reason I posted this? you may be seeing normal spark plug wear during breakin and thinking it's an engine related problem. it could be the engine is running as it should but under some unknown high load.

tip: I have installed temp sensors in all my mowing machines (exmark, bad boy, dixie chopper (vintage silver eagle with the generac engines and generac hydros), and a junky cub cadet ultima zt1). it's a good idea to have some means to see what the heat cycles are during the triple digits hot ass days during summer here in south louisiana. it's heat that kills these air cooled engines. There are many youtube videos showing how to install these temp sensors and wiring them up and putting a gauge in the control panels. Easy to do and can help prevent a big ticket day. Also give you a baseline to know where the engine temp ranges are normal and you can use that to track how things perform over time. Surprising how much heat builds on old oil and dusty dirty cylinder fins!

Right now, the dealer is picking it up Tuesday it is under warranty I have to Pay $120 for pickup and delivery. I don't care just so it is fixed by the dealer (my trailer to small). I have pulled the plug and it is firing good and I put a spark plug tester and there is plenty of spark. Let the dealer worry about it. I am 84 years old, and this is the first BRAND NEW tractor/mower I have ever owned so with the extended warranty I have 7 years and 600 hours. I let you all know what he finds. I used to do all my own work on the equipment and cars but have slowed down a bit and loving every minute of it. You wait you'll see.

johnorlandi said:

Right now, the dealer is picking it up Tuesday it is under warranty I have to Pay $120 for pickup and delivery. I don't care just so it is fixed by the dealer (my trailer to small). I have pulled the plug and it is firing good and I put a spark plug tester and there is plenty of spark. Let the dealer worry about it. I am 84 years old, and this is the first BRAND NEW tractor/mower I have ever owned so with the extended warranty I have 7 years and 600 hours. I let you all know what he finds. I used to do all my own work on the equipment and cars but have slowed down a bit and loving every minute of it. You wait you'll see.

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sounds like a good plan. I'm sure they will work the bugs out.

Swapping the plugs is just going to carbon up the good plug. However looking at the clean plug, youdefinately have an issue with the right bank. Take it back to the dealer, now! When you get it back, mow and check your plugs after each mowing to make sure they didn't justput 2 new plugs in your machine.
My guess, is that you have a valve issue. Probably just a simple adjustment, however , I'm not crazy about the way these small engines lock nuts for adjusting the valves are designed. When i adjust valves i clean the adjusting bolt and nut really good and put a little blue locktite on them. Don't put red locktite on them.

Good luck, hopefully your dealer will take care of your problem, but do it now before any damage is done to your engine, Pete

johnorlandi said:

Right now, the dealer is picking it up Tuesday it is under warranty I have to Pay $120 for pickup and delivery. I don't care just so it is fixed by the dealer (my trailer to small). I have pulled the plug and it is firing good and I put a spark plug tester and there is plenty of spark. Let the dealer worry about it. I am 84 years old, and this is the first BRAND NEW tractor/mower I have ever owned so with the extended warranty I have 7 years and 600 hours. I let you all know what he finds. I used to do all my own work on the equipment and cars but have slowed down a bit and loving every minute of it. You wait you'll see.

Click to expand...

sounds like a good plan. I'm sure they will work the bugs out.

smallenginerepairs said:

Swapping the plugs is just going to carbon up the good plug. However looking at the clean plug, youdefinately have an issue with the right bank. Take it back to the dealer, now! When you get it back, mow and check your plugs after each mowing to make sure they didn't justput 2 new plugs in your machine.
My guess, is that you have a valve issue. Probably just a simple adjustment, however , I'm not crazy about the way these small engines lock nuts for adjusting the valves are designed. When i adjust valves i clean the adjusting bolt and nut really good and put a little blue locktite on them. Don't put red locktite on them.

Good luck, hopefully your dealer will take care of your problem, but do it now before any damage is done to your engine, Pete

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AND use a torque wrench to set the CORRECT TORQUE. I've never had a problem with valve locking nuts backing off..kawasaki..kohler...b&S, and even old vintage generac. never had that problem...what I have had happened, which it common and expected is valve and seat wear and roller bearing wear on the cam, which puts the valve our of clearance over time. On the rare occasions, sometimes a valve seat steps out or a valve guide gets worn. the correct way to set the locking nut is with the SERVICE MANUAL SPEC torque wrench value. I am sure blue thread locker would work, but I don't think it's going to do anything more than the proper torque with the right tool. just my opinion. and I kind of agree, the "cam" mechanism for kawasaki that is used for valve lash is a bit wonky...but it just does work...just takes a bit of practice...and rechecking...probably the one way to mess things up, is to crank it down and throw your whole body into it without a torque wrench. that's ruin it and create problems faster than you can say "I should have checked the oil level".

My John Deere X500 hydro has 800+ hours on it and also seems to burn a lot of gas. It is rate at 23 horsepower (I think) and has done a lot of hard mowing. I believe that when I trade, I'll be looking for a diesel, probably Kubota. I also have a 30 hp Kubota (L3010), purchased in 2001 that has never given a bit of trouble and still runs like new.