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Hello I have a 2166 cub. I used it all day yesterday It ran fine. I wanted to start it today and there is no current to the ignition switch . It has a 30amp fuse. Can I just put in a larger fuse or how do i find the shot that is blowing the fuse. Thanks Lynn

Someone has already put in a larger fuse as it should had been a 25A. Without schematic which Cub Cadet doesn't provide anyone about the only to have few fuses on hand.

Does it blow the fuse with the ignition off? If so very possible the voltage regulator is shorted or bare wire touching ground.

Does it blows the fuse with the ignition in on position with the PTO off?

Does it blows the fuse with the ignition in on position with the PTO on? If so then very possible that the electric PTO clutch is partially or fully shorted.

But it may be advisable to let someone familiar with riding mowers wiring had a look at it.

i have worked on this model for many years, 9 times out of 10 the short is in the headlights. the harness falls on the muffler and melts it. check there first.

see chapter 7, also check all ground cables, straps & make sure ignition switch is tight & grounded, check all connections by hand making sure all are tight & secure.

I got a schematic from my cub dealer. Will let you know what I find. I used the tractor Satuday to blow snow for about 1 1/2hours and it worked fine. Tried to start it Sunday and the fuse was blown > Put in a new fuse and it will start. This is the second time it has blown the fuse. Will try all your suggestions and will let you know what I find. Thanks Lynn

Also check the current draw of the PTO electric clutch. Should be drawing under 7 amps but I have seen partially shorted ones to draw as much 20 amps and still be working.

AVB said:

Also check the current draw of the PTO electric clutch. Should be drawing under 7 amps but I have seen partially shorted ones to draw as much 20 amps and still be working.

Click to expand...

Normal resistance on most electric clutches is 2.3-3.3 ohms resistance which works out to 3.6-5.2 amps.

I got a little time tonight to work on the cub. The battery is new From Batteries Plus a Duracell U1R group. With the battery not hooked up I get 15.9 volts. With it hook up and the tractor running full throttle I get 18.1. Is this ok. Will do more checking maybe tomorrow night. How do you check a voltage regulator. I blows the fuse when you turn it off. But not every time. I checked the wiring for the lights and it all looks fine no burnt spots from the exhaust . Thanks Lynn

Something not right here. First you need to check your meter as a sitting not used new battery should be between 12 to 13 vdc max. Now if it been on a charger then it will be higher but this is normally no more than 14.5 vdc. Take the meter out to your automobile check it on its battery. Even with the engine running you should see no than 14.5 vdc (normally voltage vehicle charging voltages are between 13.8-14.5 vdc)

Now if the meter reads correct on the automobile battery system you have a charging problem with the Cub as you should never see over 16 vdc on any 12 vdc system. Otherwise your is reading wrong and should be considered bad if it is a cheap digital version. Most expensive models check be recalibrated but needs to done by someone that knows how to do this. With a reading of 18.1 vdc does indicates a bad voltage regulator.

Also which of the two fuse is blowing the with the red and black wires or the one with green wires? But I due suspect a defective ignition switch intermediately grounding the battery terminal to ground. I have see n few over the years to do this.

Thanks AVD. I check the meter and the 9volt battery was reading 5.4. Never thought of replacing the battery. Check thvoltage on the tracto battery and with it running it shows 15.5. With it turned off it reads 13.1. So the charging system is fine . The bad ignition switch sounds like that is the problem because the fuse blows when the switch is turned off. Will check that this weekend, Is there a way to test the switch. Or should I just replace it. I checked the wiring to the lights and it all looks good by the muffler. No burn marks. Thanks again AVD

Internal intermittent problems with switches are a lot harder to test for but what you looking for is if there is monetary continuity between the switch B terminal and M or G terminals as you switch from on to off position. If it occurs basically the switch is monetary grounding the B terminal blowing the fuse.

I put in a new ignition switch and everything works great. Thanks for your help. Lynn