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Hydro Gear 314-0510 FIXED
#1
M
muc
M
muc
Craftsman DYT 4000 M/N 917.273620
Hydro Gear 314-0510 Transaxle
Last year it started to lose speed in reverse, got to the point it would barely move. Did notice that if I pulled really hard on the motion control lever it would move a little faster. Forward seemed to be fine.
Now this year it is losing forward, it can barely climb a hill. But on level ground it still seems to have about the same top speed.
I have purged the transmission and checked the linkage for the motion control, everything seems fine.
Does anyone have any recommendations on what to do next?
Thank You for your time.
Hydro Gear 314-0510 Transaxle
Last year it started to lose speed in reverse, got to the point it would barely move. Did notice that if I pulled really hard on the motion control lever it would move a little faster. Forward seemed to be fine.
Now this year it is losing forward, it can barely climb a hill. But on level ground it still seems to have about the same top speed.
I have purged the transmission and checked the linkage for the motion control, everything seems fine.
Does anyone have any recommendations on what to do next?
Thank You for your time.
#2
7394
7394
Welcome Aboard- Hopefully others can give ya some info for this.
#3
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
When was the last time you replaced the drive belt and carefully checked the idler and drive pulleys? A worn drive belt and or worn pulleys will cause this problem. Also, you should check the belt tensioner arm to make sure it is moving freely.
#4
M
muc
This Craftsman has 390 hrs on it. I got at 240 hrs for free from a friend because a valve guide had worked loose and bent a pushrod. I tore the engine down and repaired it, been a good rider until the last two years.
UPDATE with a new discovery!
I removed the transaxle with the idea of taking it apart to check the mechanical lever which lifts the check valve
balls off their seat. I have seen a few posts that talk about the check valves coming loose and allowing the fluid to bypass.
I got it on the bench and drained the fluid (it was a little dark and has a slight off smell but no sparkle that would lead me to think there's bad wear) looks like it was due for a change.
I started to remove the brake (looked good) and fwd/rev control arm. This transaxle has the "friction pack option" because the fwd/rev control is a lever on the right rear fender. What I found was the slot in the control arm that the friction pack stud goes through had a bunch of crud packed into the ends of the slot, had about 1/2" in the reverse end of the slot and about 1/8" in the forward end. This would explain the lack of reverse because the swash plate wouldn't have been able to move far enough. But doesn't explain the loss of forward.
I'm reluctant to open this transaxle up because as near as I can tell any repair parts and seals maybe hard to find. Does anyone have any advice on where to find Hydro Gear parts?
I'm now thinking maybe I should refill and get a good belt and retest. Any ideas on that?
Jeez, I just reread this. My thanks to anyone who spends the time to read this and offer any advice!!!!!
M
muc
Thanks for your reply @Rivets I replaced the spring loaded pulley that provides belt tension and the belt last fall after a bunch of leaves got packed up there and started to smoke, I caught it pretty quick and had a garden hose nearby. Never saw any flames but the plastic pully was slightly melted and the belt got a little damage. I bought the pulley and belt from Amazon because the last small engine shop near me has closed. I bought a mid priced belt and steel pully. After the repair I didn't notice any difference in travel speed and still had next to no reverse. At the time I wondered about how much tension should be on the belt. It's less then what a v-belt alternator on a car would have but seems to be about what other spring loaded belts I've seen on other stuff like my snowblower. The spring isn't adjustable. Do you (or anyone else who is kind enough to read this) know if there is some kind of spec on spring loaded belt tension that I could measure? Also can anyone give me advice on what brand of belt works best on riding lawn mowers? I also have learned from having a small John Deere rider that will eat cheap belts in a couple of uses that quality matters. But with the Deere I can drive to the dealer and talk to a pro parts person. I miss the local small engine guy. The tensioner arm seems free to move and doesn't have any slop. The drive and driven pulleys look pretty good, maybe a little glazed but I've seen worse on something that's still working.When was the last time you replaced the drive belt and carefully checked the idler and drive pulleys? A worn drive belt and or worn pulleys will cause this problem. Also, you should check the belt tensioner arm to make sure it is moving freely.
This Craftsman has 390 hrs on it. I got at 240 hrs for free from a friend because a valve guide had worked loose and bent a pushrod. I tore the engine down and repaired it, been a good rider until the last two years.
UPDATE with a new discovery!
I removed the transaxle with the idea of taking it apart to check the mechanical lever which lifts the check valve
balls off their seat. I have seen a few posts that talk about the check valves coming loose and allowing the fluid to bypass.
I got it on the bench and drained the fluid (it was a little dark and has a slight off smell but no sparkle that would lead me to think there's bad wear) looks like it was due for a change.
I started to remove the brake (looked good) and fwd/rev control arm. This transaxle has the "friction pack option" because the fwd/rev control is a lever on the right rear fender. What I found was the slot in the control arm that the friction pack stud goes through had a bunch of crud packed into the ends of the slot, had about 1/2" in the reverse end of the slot and about 1/8" in the forward end. This would explain the lack of reverse because the swash plate wouldn't have been able to move far enough. But doesn't explain the loss of forward.
I'm reluctant to open this transaxle up because as near as I can tell any repair parts and seals maybe hard to find. Does anyone have any advice on where to find Hydro Gear parts?
I'm now thinking maybe I should refill and get a good belt and retest. Any ideas on that?
Jeez, I just reread this. My thanks to anyone who spends the time to read this and offer any advice!!!!!
#5
7394
7394
#6
Tiger Small Engine
Tiger Small Engine
Drain and refill oil, make sure the belt is in good condition, and belt tension is good. Open up transaxle as a last resort and keep your expectations realistic.Thanks for your reply @Rivets I replaced the spring loaded pulley that provides belt tension and the belt last fall after a bunch of leaves got packed up there and started to smoke, I caught it pretty quick and had a garden hose nearby. Never saw any flames but the plastic pully was slightly melted and the belt got a little damage. I bought the pulley and belt from Amazon because the last small engine shop near me has closed. I bought a mid priced belt and steel pully. After the repair I didn't notice any difference in travel speed and still had next to no reverse. At the time I wondered about how much tension should be on the belt. It's less then what a v-belt alternator on a car would have but seems to be about what other spring loaded belts I've seen on other stuff like my snowblower. The spring isn't adjustable. Do you (or anyone else who is kind enough to read this) know if there is some kind of spec on spring loaded belt tension that I could measure? Also can anyone give me advice on what brand of belt works best on riding lawn mowers? I also have learned from having a small John Deere rider that will eat cheap belts in a couple of uses that quality matters. But with the Deere I can drive to the dealer and talk to a pro parts person. I miss the local small engine guy. The tensioner arm seems free to move and doesn't have any slop. The drive and driven pulleys look pretty good, maybe a little glazed but I've seen worse on something that's still working.
This Craftsman has 390 hrs on it. I got at 240 hrs for free from a friend because a valve guide had worked loose and bent a pushrod. I tore the engine down and repaired it, been a good rider until the last two years.
UPDATE with a new discovery!
I removed the transaxle with the idea of taking it apart to check the mechanical lever which lifts the check valve
balls off their seat. I have seen a few posts that talk about the check valves coming loose and allowing the fluid to bypass.
I got it on the bench and drained the fluid (it was a little dark and has a slight off smell but no sparkle that would lead me to think there's bad wear) looks like it was due for a change.
I started to remove the brake (looked good) and fwd/rev control arm. This transaxle has the "friction pack option" because the fwd/rev control is a lever on the right rear fender. What I found was the slot in the control arm that the friction pack stud goes through had a bunch of crud packed into the ends of the slot, had about 1/2" in the reverse end of the slot and about 1/8" in the forward end. This would explain the lack of reverse because the swash plate wouldn't have been able to move far enough. But doesn't explain the loss of forward.
I'm reluctant to open this transaxle up because as near as I can tell any repair parts and seals maybe hard to find. Does anyone have any advice on where to find Hydro Gear parts?
I'm now thinking maybe I should refill and get a good belt and retest. Any ideas on that?
Jeez, I just reread this. My thanks to anyone who spends the time to read this and offer any advice!!!!!
#7
M
muc
M
muc
Thanks, any advice on belt brand or how to make sure there is enough tension?Drain and refill oil, make sure the belt is in good condition, and belt tension is good. Open up transaxle as a last resort and keep your expectations realistic.
#8
M
muc
M
muc
Thanks to @Tiger Small Engine , @Rivets and @7394
After cleaning the slot in the control arm, draining/refilling and purging the transaxle and a new belt. The mower has all it's speed back!
Now all I need to do is relearn how to release the brake/clutch slowly! Thing takes off like a rabbit when I forget.
Thank you for your help, I was pretty sure the transaxle was shot. Turns out it just needed maintenance.
After cleaning the slot in the control arm, draining/refilling and purging the transaxle and a new belt. The mower has all it's speed back!
Now all I need to do is relearn how to release the brake/clutch slowly! Thing takes off like a rabbit when I forget.
Thank you for your help, I was pretty sure the transaxle was shot. Turns out it just needed maintenance.
#9
I
ILENGINE
I
ILENGINE
Why would you have to learn to release the brake/clutch slowly. It isn't a gear drive. Put the direction control in neutral and release the pedal. All further controls should be done with the speed/direction control and the pedal shouldn't need to be touched until you either need to get off the seat to move something or for starting after shutdown.
#10
M
muc
M
muc
Ha Ha, because I'm old and forgetful. But yes, I rarely use the pedal.Why would you have to learn to release the brake/clutch slowly. It isn't a gear drive. Put the direction control in neutral and release the pedal. All further controls should be done with the speed/direction control and the pedal shouldn't need to be touched until you either need to get off the seat to move something or for starting after shutdown.
#11
I
ILENGINE
I
ILENGINE
You would be surprised by the number of people that use the hydro control like a gear shift and use the brake to start/stop after selecting the travel speed.Ha Ha, because I'm old and forgetful. But yes, I rarely use the pedal.
#12
M
muc
M
muc
I spent 30 years as a boat mechanic, so yes I learned common sense isn't so common. But thank you for looking out for us uninformed people.You would be surprised by the number of people that use the hydro control like a gear shift and use the brake to start/stop after selecting the travel speed.
#13
7394
7394