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Hydraulics Pump Leaking or New mower
#1
K
KyGolfer
K
KyGolfer
I have a SMWC-61A. Somewhere around a 2007 model. Last season I was losing hydraulic fluid from somewhere around my right pump. Kept an eye on fluid level and had to add cardboard to my shed floor for leakage. So before mowing season starts again, I want to either fix or dump this mower. In the past few years, I have replaced a ton of parts on this thing. Last year's adventure was a new electric PTO clutch. I'm 64, and crawling under this thing is getting old, and nearly killed my back. I digress, sorry. I'm looking for advise on repairing or placing this hydraulic pump. At $600-$700 for a new pump, I'm skeptical. How hard is removing and replacing gaskets for a kit that costs $30-$40? Last option. New Zero Turn? I like the larger cutting width. I don't think I need a commercial grade mower like this one, which I bought from my deceased brothers-in-law estate, and I've had for 10 years now. I have a rough yard of 3 to 4 acres to mow. If new, I don't want cheap, that will not take a beating for another 10 years. Been looking at Toro 55" to 60". I would like to get another couple years out of my Scag, due to resent repair and replacement items. But if the gaskets don't cure my problem, I'm thinking I should cut bait. I know it's not easy to give advice on the unseen, but I would like some input from my large yard mowing brothers and sisters. You have been a fountain of great information since I've found this site. Thank You All!
Attachments
#2
M
mechanic mark
M
mechanic mark
Right pump this time & maybe left pump in near future & so on. I'm 68 & work on 4 Simplicity lawn tractors my two sons & I have. I also have a hard time getting up & down with my Parkinsons Disease. I do what I can & let my sons take over when they have time & drive home or my wife & I are at their residences.
I have fallen numerous times & by the Grace of GOD have not been injured. I would pray about your situation & either let a Dealer work on your Scag or sell Scag & purchase a new Toro from Dealer. Let us know what you decide to do please & stay safe, thanks, Mark
I have fallen numerous times & by the Grace of GOD have not been injured. I would pray about your situation & either let a Dealer work on your Scag or sell Scag & purchase a new Toro from Dealer. Let us know what you decide to do please & stay safe, thanks, Mark
#3
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
First thing you need to do is diagnose where the leak is. I’ve seen units where the happy home owner has been ready to throw in the towel before finding that the problem was something as simple as a loose coupler or bad hose. My suggestion is to clean everything to look like new. Pressure washer works great for this. After everything is dry, get a can of fine powder and heavily dust the entire area where you think the leak might be. I like flour or foot powder in a squeeze bottle. Now run the unit for 20-30 minutes, shut off and let it sit for a day. The powder will allow you to back track to the source. At this point you should have all the info you need to decide whether to repair or replace. When done don’t forget to clean the unit again. I’m 70+ and understand what it means to try getting off the concrete. This method eliminates a lot of ups and downs on the joints, and going to the medicine cabinet.
#4
G
geelee
G
geelee
the 2 most common leak points on this machine is where the hoses clamp, they get hard with age. most times just tightening the clamp will do, the other is the dump valve. simple fix is to unscrew and remove, then replace the o-ring.
#5
K
KyGolfer
K
KyGolfer
All great advice! I never thought of or even heard of the flour/powder trick. Rivets, you should get paid for giving out those tricks of the trade. So, I guess I will just have to owe you one. Geelee, if it is only tightening some hose clamps, I would faint. Most of my luck now a days isn't that good. But you never know. And to Mechanic Mark, THAT is what I'm really afraid of. I'm not wanting to replace the one, only to have to replace the other in a few months. So, I will take everyone's advice and knowledge, and go from there. You all are the best. Thanks again for the input.
#6
G
geelee
G
geelee
no fluid from one pump goes to the other without going through the filter. so even if one pump wipes out the other is protected.
#7
E
efred
E
efred
Are you referring to the left and right motors that drive each wheel? I don't know what kind of motor they are, but if they are piston/swashplate style, you don't want to be tearing into them - it's like rebuilding an injector pump; lots of small parts, and very tight tolerances. Even a gear-type motor has tolerances that are very tight, which require specialized tools and knowledge/experience/training. A good shop should be able to repair the drive motors.I have a SMWC-61A. Somewhere around a 2007 model. Last season I was losing hydraulic fluid from somewhere around my right pump. Kept an eye on fluid level and had to add cardboard to my shed floor for leakage. So before mowing season starts again, I want to either fix or dump this mower. In the past few years, I have replaced a ton of parts on this thing. Last year's adventure was a new electric PTO clutch. I'm 64, and crawling under this thing is getting old, and nearly killed my back. I digress, sorry. I'm looking for advise on repairing or placing this hydraulic pump. At $600-$700 for a new pump, I'm skeptical. How hard is removing and replacing gaskets for a kit that costs $30-$40? Last option. New Zero Turn? I like the larger cutting width. I don't think I need a commercial grade mower like this one, which I bought from my deceased brothers-in-law estate, and I've had for 10 years now. I have a rough yard of 3 to 4 acres to mow. If new, I don't want cheap, that will not take a beating for another 10 years. Been looking at Toro 55" to 60". I would like to get another couple years out of my Scag, due to resent repair and replacement items. But if the gaskets don't cure my problem, I'm thinking I should cut bait. I know it's not easy to give advice on the unseen, but I would like some input from my large yard mowing brothers and sisters. You have been a fountain of great information since I've found this site. Thank You All!
#8
K
KyGolfer
K
KyGolfer
No, I really don't think so. The leak is coming from somewhere up top. I have residue on the frame up there. Leaking through to bottom. Been like that for the last month or so of mowing season. Had to put cardboard down on my shed floor to soak up some oil that dipped out. Kept adding oil when needed. Wasn't much though. When the weather breaks a little around here, I will clean off the residue oil, and try the flour trick that Rivets told me about. If I try cleaning now, I will have a big block of ice to melt off. Ha. Thanks for everyone's response.Are you referring to the left and right motors that drive each wheel? I don't know what kind of motor they are, but if they are piston/swashplate style, you don't want to be tearing into them - it's like rebuilding an injector pump; lots of small parts, and very tight tolerances. Even a gear-type motor has tolerances that are very tight, which require specialized tools and knowledge/experience/training. A good shop should be able to repair the drive motors.
#9
StarTech
StarTech
Then it should be one of two o-rings that are bad. The charge pump cover o-ring is easy to change but you got to be not to lose the spring and check ball. The end cap o-ring requires splitting the pump by removing the charge pump and 4 bolts. More involved so be careful and make notes if your first to do so.
Here I use UV dye to find the leaks. I currently got to pull a similar BDP-21 pump but the IPL shows yours to be a PG series Hydro Gear pump. The customer had the RH charge pump o-ring leaking but now has LH end cap o-ring leaking.
UV dye will not hurt the system as my customer ran his Hustler Super Z with the dye in the hydraulics for a year without problems. Just had to make it through the mowing season since it was a slow leak but was getting worst.
Here I use UV dye to find the leaks. I currently got to pull a similar BDP-21 pump but the IPL shows yours to be a PG series Hydro Gear pump. The customer had the RH charge pump o-ring leaking but now has LH end cap o-ring leaking.
UV dye will not hurt the system as my customer ran his Hustler Super Z with the dye in the hydraulics for a year without problems. Just had to make it through the mowing season since it was a slow leak but was getting worst.
#10
O
OldDiyer
O
OldDiyer
I too am the type that would sooner repair than replace a complete machine if possible. I am 75 and getting off the floor isn't so bad, but I live with COPD, so I don't have the air as much as needed and is very hard to deal with when you have the gumsion but have to work so slow to get the jobs done. I am not as lucky to have sons or sons in laws to help so I am pretty much on my own doing any repairs. My wife was always willing to help but she is dealing with MS, so she isn't as handy as she used to be. One thing I have learned with age is sometimes it is the easiest things that go wrong so as stated do the checking out where the leak is before giving up and spending a lot of money for something simple. I guess many people do the same and we always think the worst firsthand. It may be a very easy fix. Sometimes you have to read between the lines a bit but people on this site seem to give us a lot of free help and at least try to put us in the right directions. Good luck.
#11
K
KyGolfer
K
KyGolfer
StarTech, thank you for the heads up on the spring and check ball. I will also check on the UV dye. That is also good to know. Old DIYer, I too have no one to help. I have a son-in-law, that would help, but that would only be on weekends, and he would have to drive 1 and 1/2 hrs. to get here. I do not like asking people to put themselves out like that. Sorry, but my wife looks at a screwdriver and wonders if it should turn right or left. Or bring me a socket wrench when I ask for the screwdriver. I can do a fair amount of DIY repairs, with a little help later on from Tylenol. I can get up and down, with some grunts and moans, but I'm not looking to get into a repair that will drive me nuts again. Last year I was replacing an electric POT clutch. That project took its toll on me. But thanks for the advice. You are definitely right. People on this site are a wealth of knowledge. I'm still hoping it's a small repair job. Not only for my physical health, but also mental. I have done a ton of work on this thing in the past 4-5 years. I know she's no spring chicken. I was just wondering on when most people cut bait. I'll have to wait until I can get it from my shed, degreased, and into my garage. Just need a couple 50-degree days to do that and dried off. Thank you all again! You are the best.