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Hustler Sport - to buy or not
#1
T
tfarrell
T
tfarrell
Hey there,
Wanted to get some experienced feedback from member's on the Hustler Sport:
Anyother thoughts greatly appreciated.
Thank you!
Tim
Wanted to get some experienced feedback from member's on the Hustler Sport:
- Does it cut well?
- How is the mulching kit?
- How does it do with the bagging kit?
- Is the motor strong enough to get wet grass into the bags?
- Does it mow fast?
Anyother thoughts greatly appreciated.
Thank you!
Tim
#2
Fireman 123
Fireman 123
I looked at a 42" sport with the 18hp kaw today. Nice mower for the price ($3,495). I would also like to hear from anyone that has one.
#3
K
Kane84
K
Kane84
just picked up a hustler sport. bought it yesterday and delivered this morning. bastards couldnt even fill it up with fuel after spending 4204$ total least they could do.
my lot is one acre. controls are pretty sensitive will take some getting used to. grass was 6" so set the deck at 3" throttle 3/4 of the way up i could go as fast as she could and the cut was great.
pros: tight package, kawasaki is great. cut, fun.
cons: looking at it at the dealer next to fastrak and bigger models it looks like a piss ant.
very sceptical at first sight. tiny bubble rear tires. no arm rest. no foldable roll bar its either on or off. no center deck rollers.
my 1990 jd stx38 shot the **** on me. ive been hassling the wife for 3 months about a new mower.
i wanted a ferris base model or high end starter model.... prices scared the wife. so searching for entry level non-box store mowers i came across the hustler sport and exmark quest.
hustler was chosen because of local support.
as off day one i am impressed. yes if you have under 2 acres this is the mower for u.
p.s 42" trim side of deck is dead even with outside back tire..... didnt see how yo9u would trim with out rubbing your mower down the side of it also.
out the door price with tax. 4204.12 with 48" deck,motor bumper 600cc kawasaki
my lot is one acre. controls are pretty sensitive will take some getting used to. grass was 6" so set the deck at 3" throttle 3/4 of the way up i could go as fast as she could and the cut was great.
pros: tight package, kawasaki is great. cut, fun.
cons: looking at it at the dealer next to fastrak and bigger models it looks like a piss ant.
very sceptical at first sight. tiny bubble rear tires. no arm rest. no foldable roll bar its either on or off. no center deck rollers.
my 1990 jd stx38 shot the **** on me. ive been hassling the wife for 3 months about a new mower.
i wanted a ferris base model or high end starter model.... prices scared the wife. so searching for entry level non-box store mowers i came across the hustler sport and exmark quest.
hustler was chosen because of local support.
as off day one i am impressed. yes if you have under 2 acres this is the mower for u.
p.s 42" trim side of deck is dead even with outside back tire..... didnt see how yo9u would trim with out rubbing your mower down the side of it also.
out the door price with tax. 4204.12 with 48" deck,motor bumper 600cc kawasaki
#4
S
stevensinks
S
stevensinks
Im looking at the Hustler Sport. I can get a 42inch for $3350. It looks to be well made and the warranty looks good. After looking at some of the post here I wonder if I should go for 48 inch. Any thing you can tell me about this mower would be great. Thanks Charlie
#5
K
Kane84
K
Kane84
Charlie,
Look at the 42" on the trim side of deck.... It's perfectly inline with back tire..To me that just makes it a little difficult to edge with. For the 300$ extra get the 48 and an extra blade.
Sport does not have the free float deck. (hanging from chains)
Intead the deck is hanging by a few steel straps that sway. Thus it rattles. And is it really worth 4k.... We will see.
Other than that all around great mower. P.s if your new to ztr mower, watch your roll bar on low branches.
**Don't by briggs and Stratton
Look at the 42" on the trim side of deck.... It's perfectly inline with back tire..To me that just makes it a little difficult to edge with. For the 300$ extra get the 48 and an extra blade.
Sport does not have the free float deck. (hanging from chains)
Intead the deck is hanging by a few steel straps that sway. Thus it rattles. And is it really worth 4k.... We will see.
Other than that all around great mower. P.s if your new to ztr mower, watch your roll bar on low branches.
**Don't by briggs and Stratton
#6
C
Carl53
C
Carl53
Mowed with my new 42 inch sport last night. Much more responsive than my former 20+ year old Dixon.
Cut fine. I did not notice much more trimming left than with the Dixon, then on the other hand I'm not so particular about it out back where I'd have most of that to do. My sport has the B&S 17.5 HP engine and it was quite acceptable. I had not read on here prior to my purchase of concerns, then again my was a couple of years old floor model that I got for $2000.
Cut fine. I did not notice much more trimming left than with the Dixon, then on the other hand I'm not so particular about it out back where I'd have most of that to do. My sport has the B&S 17.5 HP engine and it was quite acceptable. I had not read on here prior to my purchase of concerns, then again my was a couple of years old floor model that I got for $2000.
#7
K
Kane84
K
Kane84
Carl-
For 2000 you made off like a bandit.
42" trim was just a theory I had. That's what I should have done. I bet it fits great through gates.
Please give your review on your new
hustler.
For 2000 you made off like a bandit.
42" trim was just a theory I had. That's what I should have done. I bet it fits great through gates.
Please give your review on your new
hustler.
#8
C
contheon
C
contheon
I have owned my Hustler Sport for 2 years now. It's the 42" deck, Honda GXV 530 configuration. My lawn is a challenging 2 acres of rolling hills and obstacles which includes a 60' long 15 degree slope in the front that is over 250' across. My prior mower was a Scag 48" walk behind with a 17HP Kawasaki.
I choose the Hustler Sport for it's build quality and compact design. The frame, deck, blade speed and components are are a step up from the more popular residential choices in this class. The Scaq Freedom is a quality machine but I simply had no place to store it. Same for the Exmark Quest.
The Sport's low center of gravity is a big advantage. It's extremely manuverable and stable. Cut quality is as good as my Scag. At my time of purchase, the Kawasaki was not an option ... but I have been impressed by the Honda's performance and would buy the same configuration again today. It's smooth, fast, is never bogged down by tall wet grass, and powers up the hills.
There has been alot writen about zero turns and hills, so here's my experience. The hill in front of my house is an extra challenge because it faces south. It's also has a concave curve in the center. So it's 15 degrees overall, and about 18 degrees at the steepest point. Both the top and bottom are flat. The grass can easily be burned out by the sun by mid summer if you attempt to always mow in the same direction. Heavier commercial riders would destroy the grass on this hill.
The recommended cut is across the hill. The Sport can cover this 250' run without slipping, although in the steepest section I'm pushing hard on the foot rests and leaning into the hill to avoid sliding on the seat. Cutting straight up and down the hill is actually easier... and I know, not recommended. The flat areas on the top and bottom of my hill and Sport's low center of gravity make this possible. The Sport acceleration up the hill is stable and impressive. The trip down the hill is more of a challenge. You need to start slow and go down no more than 10 degrees off center. Beyond that point, the Hydros can release. In my case, with the flat area at the bottom, it's not an issue. To keep sun related damage on the hill to a minimum, I vary direction every cut.
I highly recommend the Sport. If you have an application with a hill steeper than mine, you should consider a model with the heavier duty hydros. The Hustler FasTrac uses the ZT-3100s which have 50% more wheel torque.
I choose the Hustler Sport for it's build quality and compact design. The frame, deck, blade speed and components are are a step up from the more popular residential choices in this class. The Scaq Freedom is a quality machine but I simply had no place to store it. Same for the Exmark Quest.
The Sport's low center of gravity is a big advantage. It's extremely manuverable and stable. Cut quality is as good as my Scag. At my time of purchase, the Kawasaki was not an option ... but I have been impressed by the Honda's performance and would buy the same configuration again today. It's smooth, fast, is never bogged down by tall wet grass, and powers up the hills.
There has been alot writen about zero turns and hills, so here's my experience. The hill in front of my house is an extra challenge because it faces south. It's also has a concave curve in the center. So it's 15 degrees overall, and about 18 degrees at the steepest point. Both the top and bottom are flat. The grass can easily be burned out by the sun by mid summer if you attempt to always mow in the same direction. Heavier commercial riders would destroy the grass on this hill.
The recommended cut is across the hill. The Sport can cover this 250' run without slipping, although in the steepest section I'm pushing hard on the foot rests and leaning into the hill to avoid sliding on the seat. Cutting straight up and down the hill is actually easier... and I know, not recommended. The flat areas on the top and bottom of my hill and Sport's low center of gravity make this possible. The Sport acceleration up the hill is stable and impressive. The trip down the hill is more of a challenge. You need to start slow and go down no more than 10 degrees off center. Beyond that point, the Hydros can release. In my case, with the flat area at the bottom, it's not an issue. To keep sun related damage on the hill to a minimum, I vary direction every cut.
I highly recommend the Sport. If you have an application with a hill steeper than mine, you should consider a model with the heavier duty hydros. The Hustler FasTrac uses the ZT-3100s which have 50% more wheel torque.
#9
C
Carl53
C
Carl53
Cut my yard for the 2nd time today with my 42 inch sport. Excellent cut in quick fashion. Decided to go ahead and change the oil (recommended for an initial change at 4 hours). Now I have my first beef with the unit. Mine has the 17.5 Hp B/S engine. Not sure that it makes any difference since the owners manual for the unit is universal although I have a separate engine manual.
Anyway the means provided to drain the oil is as described in the owners manual, slightly different than the B/S manual. What is provided is a flimsy 'quick open so called valve' and an eight inch piece of tubing. The tubing is necessary because the drain valve is located probably 4 inches from the edge of the steel engine deck. Unfortunately it takes virtually the whole eight inches to extend the drain off the edge since you have to bend the tube to get it behind the tire. After removing the dust cap, and fitting the tube to the nipple, you are to turn the plastic valve to the left and pull it straight out to initiate oil flow through the valve and nipple. Mine was so flimsy that it slid off the metal fitting, spurting oil everywhere. After shoving it back on and having to refit the tube while oil is coming out, since the tube being so bent to extend to a drain position was not happy about having the connection on the other end turned/moved and decided to come off. Eventually the unit drained, with a cup or so laying on the deck and in the 3/16 inch wide gap between the engine and the frame behind the seat. After mopping up the bulk of the oil and being amazed that anyone could engineer an oil drain system 1000X worse than the one I had on my Dixon that I often had unpleasant thoughts about, I proceeded to examine the 'valve'. I found it cracked. Not that I placed any unusual force on it. I seriously doubt that anyone actually could be expected to successfully use the drain system provided on a routine basis, (I'll allow that you might get lucky once). Perhaps I'm overlooking something major other than what was provided. Anyway, have any sport owners come up with a better valve/drain system? I thought I'd ask before heading back to the dealer.
Anyway the means provided to drain the oil is as described in the owners manual, slightly different than the B/S manual. What is provided is a flimsy 'quick open so called valve' and an eight inch piece of tubing. The tubing is necessary because the drain valve is located probably 4 inches from the edge of the steel engine deck. Unfortunately it takes virtually the whole eight inches to extend the drain off the edge since you have to bend the tube to get it behind the tire. After removing the dust cap, and fitting the tube to the nipple, you are to turn the plastic valve to the left and pull it straight out to initiate oil flow through the valve and nipple. Mine was so flimsy that it slid off the metal fitting, spurting oil everywhere. After shoving it back on and having to refit the tube while oil is coming out, since the tube being so bent to extend to a drain position was not happy about having the connection on the other end turned/moved and decided to come off. Eventually the unit drained, with a cup or so laying on the deck and in the 3/16 inch wide gap between the engine and the frame behind the seat. After mopping up the bulk of the oil and being amazed that anyone could engineer an oil drain system 1000X worse than the one I had on my Dixon that I often had unpleasant thoughts about, I proceeded to examine the 'valve'. I found it cracked. Not that I placed any unusual force on it. I seriously doubt that anyone actually could be expected to successfully use the drain system provided on a routine basis, (I'll allow that you might get lucky once). Perhaps I'm overlooking something major other than what was provided. Anyway, have any sport owners come up with a better valve/drain system? I thought I'd ask before heading back to the dealer.
#10
txzrider
txzrider
I had that flimsy valve on my old snapper, it was at the back so it worked ok, I was just always concerned it would open accidentally. My country clipper has a fabricated replacement. It is copper or brass pipe leading to a valve and then to a spigot that points through a hole in the deck where the engine mounts.
#11
C
contheon
The Honda engine has a quality brass value located directly over the drain opening in the frame. I expect the Kawasaki is set up the same way.
C
contheon
Cut my yard for the 2nd time today with my 42 inch sport. Excellent cut in quick fashion. Decided to go ahead and change the oil (recommended for an initial change at 4 hours). Now I have my first beef with the unit. Mine has the 17.5 Hp B/S engine. Not sure that it makes any difference since the owners manual for the unit is universal although I have a separate engine manual.
Anyway the means provided to drain the oil is as described in the owners manual, slightly different than the B/S manual. What is provided is a flimsy 'quick open so called valve' and an eight inch piece of tubing. The tubing is necessary because the drain valve is located probably 4 inches from the edge of the steel engine deck. Unfortunately it takes virtually the whole eight inches to extend the drain off the edge since you have to bend the tube to get it behind the tire. After removing the dust cap, and fitting the tube to the nipple, you are to turn the plastic valve to the left and pull it straight out to initiate oil flow through the valve and nipple. Mine was so flimsy that it slid off the metal fitting, spurting oil everywhere. After shoving it back on and having to refit the tube while oil is coming out, since the tube being so bent to extend to a drain position was not happy about having the connection on the other end turned/moved and decided to come off. Eventually the unit drained, with a cup or so laying on the deck and in the 3/16 inch wide gap between the engine and the frame behind the seat. After mopping up the bulk of the oil and being amazed that anyone could engineer an oil drain system 1000X worse than the one I had on my Dixon that I often had unpleasant thoughts about, I proceeded to examine the 'valve'. I found it cracked. Not that I placed any unusual force on it. I seriously doubt that anyone actually could be expected to successfully use the drain system provided on a routine basis, (I'll allow that you might get lucky once). Perhaps I'm overlooking something major other than what was provided. Anyway, have any sport owners come up with a better valve/drain system? I thought I'd ask before heading back to the dealer.
The Honda engine has a quality brass value located directly over the drain opening in the frame. I expect the Kawasaki is set up the same way.
#12
S
stevensinks
S
stevensinks
Carl53 I just bought a used Fastrack that has a new GVX 630 Honda on it. After reading your post about the oil drain I went out and checked mine. The oil drain is right over the frame. There is NO way to drain the oil with out making a BIG mess. Im going to call the dealer that I got it from and see if he has a solution. If not I have a deal that I can suck the oil out with. Then when I pull the filter it should get the rest of it. Poor planing on someones part.
#13
C
contheon
Disappointing. But the Fastrak is a different model than the Fastrak Sport (now called the Sport). I wonder if they have changed it since 2005.
C
contheon
Carl53 I just bought a used Fastrack that has a new GVX 630 Honda on it. After reading your post about the oil drain I went out and checked mine. The oil drain is right over the frame. There is NO way to drain the oil with out making a BIG mess. Im going to call the dealer that I got it from and see if he has a solution. If not I have a deal that I can suck the oil out with. Then when I pull the filter it should get the rest of it. Poor planing on someones part.
Disappointing. But the Fastrak is a different model than the Fastrak Sport (now called the Sport). I wonder if they have changed it since 2005.
#14
C
Carl53
It took several bouts with trying to mop up the oil as it seeped back out from under the motor. The dealer said they'd take care of the pathetic valve and left me with the impression that I'd get something different than what the mower came with. Unfortunately when I went to pick up the part, it was the same as the original valve but with a longer piece of tubing. Oh well I am back in business, at least until the next oil change.
C
Carl53
Anyway the means provided to drain the oil is as described in the owners manual, slightly different than the B/S manual. What is provided is a flimsy 'quick open so called valve' and an eight inch piece of tubing. The tubing is necessary because the drain valve is located probably 4 inches from the edge of the steel engine deck. Unfortunately it takes virtually the whole eight inches to extend the drain off the edge since you have to bend the tube to get it behind the tire. After removing the dust cap, and fitting the tube to the nipple, you are to turn the plastic valve to the left and pull it straight out to initiate oil flow through the valve and nipple. Mine was so flimsy that it slid off the metal fitting, spurting oil everywhere. After shoving it back on and having to refit the tube while oil is coming out, since the tube being so bent to extend to a drain position was not happy about having the connection on the other end turned/moved and decided to come off. Eventually the unit drained, with a cup or so laying on the deck and in the 3/16 inch wide gap between the engine and the frame behind the seat. After mopping up the bulk of the oil and being amazed that anyone could engineer an oil drain system 1000X worse than the one I had on my Dixon that I often had unpleasant thoughts about, I proceeded to examine the 'valve'. I found it cracked. Not that I placed any unusual force on it. I seriously doubt that anyone actually could be expected to successfully use the drain system provided on a routine basis, (I'll allow that you might get lucky once). Perhaps I'm overlooking something major other than what was provided. Anyway, have any sport owners come up with a better valve/drain system? I thought I'd ask before heading back to the dealer.
It took several bouts with trying to mop up the oil as it seeped back out from under the motor. The dealer said they'd take care of the pathetic valve and left me with the impression that I'd get something different than what the mower came with. Unfortunately when I went to pick up the part, it was the same as the original valve but with a longer piece of tubing. Oh well I am back in business, at least until the next oil change.
#15
L
Larry R
The Hustler is great but look out for the Honda GVX530. Paid $500 extra for the Honda and mine has been in the shop constantly for valve problems. First time the factory had to make the new replacement parts and was out of service for 2 months. It's been down for valve trouble 4 times and is being rebuilt or replaced now under warranty. Maybe I got the Monday morning/Friday lemon but the carbs give trouble and the o-ring for gaskets were not seated and had to be replaced when brand new. It will be out of warranty in a few months and will replace it with a Kawasaki or Kohler next. Never had a Kohler but my last had a Kawasaki that still had new compression when I sold it.
L
Larry R
I have owned my Hustler Sport for 2 years now. It's the 42" deck, Honda GXV 530 configuration. My lawn is a challenging 2 acres of rolling hills and obstacles which includes a 60' long 15 degree slope in the front that is over 250' across. My prior mower was a Scag 48" walk behind with a 17HP Kawasaki.
I choose the Hustler Sport for it's build quality and compact design. The frame, deck, blade speed and components are are a step up from the more popular residential choices in this class. The Scaq Freedom is a quality machine but I simply had no place to store it. Same for the Exmark Quest.
The Sport's low center of gravity is a big advantage. It's extremely manuverable and stable. Cut quality is as good as my Scag. At my time of purchase, the Kawasaki was not an option ... but I have been impressed by the Honda's performance and would buy the same configuration again today. It's smooth, fast, is never bogged down by tall wet grass, and powers up the hills.
There has been alot writen about zero turns and hills, so here's my experience. The hill in front of my house is an extra challenge because it faces south. It's also has a concave curve in the center. So it's 15 degrees overall, and about 18 degrees at the steepest point. Both the top and bottom are flat. The grass can easily be burned out by the sun by mid summer if you attempt to always mow in the same direction. Heavier commercial riders would destroy the grass on this hill.
The recommended cut is across the hill. The Sport can cover this 250' run without slipping, although in the steepest section I'm pushing hard on the foot rests and leaning into the hill to avoid sliding on the seat. Cutting straight up and down the hill is actually easier... and I know, not recommended. The flat areas on the top and bottom of my hill and Sport's low center of gravity make this possible. The Sport acceleration up the hill is stable and impressive. The trip down the hill is more of a challenge. You need to start slow and go down no more than 10 degrees off center. Beyond that point, the Hydros can release. In my case, with the flat area at the bottom, it's not an issue. To keep sun related damage on the hill to a minimum, I vary direction every cut.
I highly recommend the Sport. If you have an application with a hill steeper than mine, you should consider a model with the heavier duty hydros. The Hustler FasTrac uses the ZT-3100s which have 50% more wheel torque.
The Hustler is great but look out for the Honda GVX530. Paid $500 extra for the Honda and mine has been in the shop constantly for valve problems. First time the factory had to make the new replacement parts and was out of service for 2 months. It's been down for valve trouble 4 times and is being rebuilt or replaced now under warranty. Maybe I got the Monday morning/Friday lemon but the carbs give trouble and the o-ring for gaskets were not seated and had to be replaced when brand new. It will be out of warranty in a few months and will replace it with a Kawasaki or Kohler next. Never had a Kohler but my last had a Kawasaki that still had new compression when I sold it.
#16
L
Larry R
My Hustler 48" Sport is good just skids too easy on turns tearing up grass. A bit slow on forward speed, but is well built. Stay away from the Honda GVX530, they are junk in my experience. Mine is 2yrs old and has been in the shop to have all valve parts replaced---this makes the 4th time. First time waited 2 months for factory to make new replacement parts. Carb problems as well. Get the Kawasaki or Briggs. My other Honda engines have been great, that's why I paid the extra $500 for it.
L
Larry R
Hey there,
Wanted to get some experienced feedback from member's on the Hustler Sport:
- Does it cut well?
- How is the mulching kit?
- How does it do with the bagging kit?
- Is the motor strong enough to get wet grass into the bags?
- Does it mow fast?
Anyother thoughts greatly appreciated.
Thank you!
Tim
My Hustler 48" Sport is good just skids too easy on turns tearing up grass. A bit slow on forward speed, but is well built. Stay away from the Honda GVX530, they are junk in my experience. Mine is 2yrs old and has been in the shop to have all valve parts replaced---this makes the 4th time. First time waited 2 months for factory to make new replacement parts. Carb problems as well. Get the Kawasaki or Briggs. My other Honda engines have been great, that's why I paid the extra $500 for it.
#17
W
wascator
W
wascator
Hi, I have owned a Hustler Sport 48" for about 2 years now. I like the size of it, and the heavy construction of the deck, the heavy-gauge blades, and the high blade tip speed, etc. I am happy I did not buy a larger machine, as I think it would not have been as easy to get around in my yard.
I have the 21 HP B&S engine, and it has been problem free, until, ahem, now.When I started it to move it and change the blades yesterday, it ran with low power etc and would not crank over, like it had high compression.I did some research and learned the stud for the intake rocker arm comes loose sometimes, so I looked and mine was very loose; this was easy to fix. However, the engine still has something very wrong with it, and I may have to buy a new one.
The traction of the rear tires is a little less than I would like sometimes; this may be because of the type of tire tread. I can mow on a slope carefully; if you ever cause the rear wheels to slip, you are pretty-much out of control and sliding to the bottom of the slope or ditch. If I put too much air pressure in the rear tires, it really reduces the traction.
I wish a starter cord would be included with these engines; if you have battery trouble you are dead in the water, and you can't push or roll it as far as I can tell.
For the price I don't think you will be unhappy with the Hustler Sport series.
I have the 21 HP B&S engine, and it has been problem free, until, ahem, now.When I started it to move it and change the blades yesterday, it ran with low power etc and would not crank over, like it had high compression.I did some research and learned the stud for the intake rocker arm comes loose sometimes, so I looked and mine was very loose; this was easy to fix. However, the engine still has something very wrong with it, and I may have to buy a new one.
The traction of the rear tires is a little less than I would like sometimes; this may be because of the type of tire tread. I can mow on a slope carefully; if you ever cause the rear wheels to slip, you are pretty-much out of control and sliding to the bottom of the slope or ditch. If I put too much air pressure in the rear tires, it really reduces the traction.
I wish a starter cord would be included with these engines; if you have battery trouble you are dead in the water, and you can't push or roll it as far as I can tell.
For the price I don't think you will be unhappy with the Hustler Sport series.
#18
L
Larry R
I managed to get the distributor to replace the Honda with a 4 hp larger Kawasaki. Dealer wanted $1400 due to having to change the wiring harness and muffler. The dist. took off the Honda and installed the Kawasaki engine, harness, and muffler for $800 difference and said he would repair the Honda and sell it to try to recoup some of his money. Honda will no longer honor their warranties and the dealers are stuck, Hustler cancelled their contract with Honda and can get nothing from them. They now use Kawasaki only on the new models from the factory. 6 weeks to get the mower back but runs much stronger, doesn't stall and any kind of heavy grass and it now runs better than ever.
L
Larry R
Hi, I have owned a Hustler Sport 48" for about 2 years now. I like the size of it, and the heavy construction of the deck, the heavy-gauge blades, and the high blade tip speed, etc. I am happy I did not buy a larger machine, as I think it would not have been as easy to get around in my yard.
I have the 21 HP B&S engine, and it has been problem free, until, ahem, now.When I started it to move it and change the blades yesterday, it ran with low power etc and would not crank over, like it had high compression.I did some research and learned the stud for the intake rocker arm comes loose sometimes, so I looked and mine was very loose; this was easy to fix. However, the engine still has something very wrong with it, and I may have to buy a new one.
The traction of the rear tires is a little less than I would like sometimes; this may be because of the type of tire tread. I can mow on a slope carefully; if you ever cause the rear wheels to slip, you are pretty-much out of control and sliding to the bottom of the slope or ditch. If I put too much air pressure in the rear tires, it really reduces the traction.
I wish a starter cord would be included with these engines; if you have battery trouble you are dead in the water, and you can't push or roll it as far as I can tell.
For the price I don't think you will be unhappy with the Hustler Sport series.
I managed to get the distributor to replace the Honda with a 4 hp larger Kawasaki. Dealer wanted $1400 due to having to change the wiring harness and muffler. The dist. took off the Honda and installed the Kawasaki engine, harness, and muffler for $800 difference and said he would repair the Honda and sell it to try to recoup some of his money. Honda will no longer honor their warranties and the dealers are stuck, Hustler cancelled their contract with Honda and can get nothing from them. They now use Kawasaki only on the new models from the factory. 6 weeks to get the mower back but runs much stronger, doesn't stall and any kind of heavy grass and it now runs better than ever.
#19
H
horse
Have owned my 42" SPORT mower with mulching kit on its welded deck since March, 2010. I operate this machine on 2.4 wooded acres, averaging 5 hours of running time per month all year long since it mulches live oak leaves in the fall and winter here in central Florida. Don't make it a practice to cut grass when it is laden with moisture, nor should this machine ever been cleaned with water pressure. After each use and before it is garaged, a leaf blower removes the first layer of grime, then the bright yellow paint gets wiped down with a citrus cleaning solution and the black fenders and the seat get treated with a motor cycle product named original "pig spit" Pig Spit // Products to Clean and Protect your Motorcycle . The best vinyl/plastic cleaner on the market. At this writing there are no signs of rust on this mower.
In the height of the growing season I mow St. Augustine at 3.25 inches and bahia at 2.5 inches, cutting it frequently before it becomes a hayfield. There is no issue with power going thru dry grass less than 6 inches high, but attempting to mow over Spanish moss is an obstacle. Be assured (with the exit chute closed off) to give the sharp blades time to pulverize the clumps. I see no reason to haul away bagged grass clippings (unless they are diseased). The smaller the organic particles are, the faster bacterial action can return nitrogen from their decomposition to the soil.
Now for the drawbacks.
There are only two (for me) and they could very well be a result of the environment here. The first is mulching blade wear. This sandy soil is picked up by the high velocity spin of the whirling blades and is directed like using a sandblaster on to the wings of the mulching blades that is a cause for the blades to have premature shape failure. With the loss of shape integreity, there is a loss of efficiency. With periodic sharpening and balancing, I go through three sets of blades in 15 months. The second drawback comes when leaves are mulched. The dust produced by this action is astronomical and it is impossible to mow away from the dust cloud. Headwear, goggles, ear cotton, and a dust mask are prerequisites to operating in leaves. Both the engine air and pre filter must be changed after each mulching session over leaves.
There is one caution warning that I must mention which I believe is unique to this (zero turn) style mower. For the safety of the operator .... DO NOT attempt to run this mower on slopes greater than 15 degrees (the balance and the center of gravity will change) and if power is applied to the wheels when positioned in the wrong attitude, the machine will roll over. Have fun with your SPORT.
Enough said,
horse
H
horse
Hey there,
Wanted to get some experienced feedback from member's on the Hustler Sport:
- Does it cut well?
- How is the mulching kit?
- How does it do with the bagging kit?
- Is the motor strong enough to get wet grass into the bags?
- Does it mow fast?
Anyother thoughts greatly appreciated.
Thank you!
Tim
Have owned my 42" SPORT mower with mulching kit on its welded deck since March, 2010. I operate this machine on 2.4 wooded acres, averaging 5 hours of running time per month all year long since it mulches live oak leaves in the fall and winter here in central Florida. Don't make it a practice to cut grass when it is laden with moisture, nor should this machine ever been cleaned with water pressure. After each use and before it is garaged, a leaf blower removes the first layer of grime, then the bright yellow paint gets wiped down with a citrus cleaning solution and the black fenders and the seat get treated with a motor cycle product named original "pig spit" Pig Spit // Products to Clean and Protect your Motorcycle . The best vinyl/plastic cleaner on the market. At this writing there are no signs of rust on this mower.
In the height of the growing season I mow St. Augustine at 3.25 inches and bahia at 2.5 inches, cutting it frequently before it becomes a hayfield. There is no issue with power going thru dry grass less than 6 inches high, but attempting to mow over Spanish moss is an obstacle. Be assured (with the exit chute closed off) to give the sharp blades time to pulverize the clumps. I see no reason to haul away bagged grass clippings (unless they are diseased). The smaller the organic particles are, the faster bacterial action can return nitrogen from their decomposition to the soil.
Now for the drawbacks.
There are only two (for me) and they could very well be a result of the environment here. The first is mulching blade wear. This sandy soil is picked up by the high velocity spin of the whirling blades and is directed like using a sandblaster on to the wings of the mulching blades that is a cause for the blades to have premature shape failure. With the loss of shape integreity, there is a loss of efficiency. With periodic sharpening and balancing, I go through three sets of blades in 15 months. The second drawback comes when leaves are mulched. The dust produced by this action is astronomical and it is impossible to mow away from the dust cloud. Headwear, goggles, ear cotton, and a dust mask are prerequisites to operating in leaves. Both the engine air and pre filter must be changed after each mulching session over leaves.
There is one caution warning that I must mention which I believe is unique to this (zero turn) style mower. For the safety of the operator .... DO NOT attempt to run this mower on slopes greater than 15 degrees (the balance and the center of gravity will change) and if power is applied to the wheels when positioned in the wrong attitude, the machine will roll over. Have fun with your SPORT.
Enough said,
horse