Huskee mower won't start...confused

dongraham

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I have a Huskee, bought in 2002?. It won't start. I have replaced the ignition switch and the solenoid. Safety switches are disabled. I have located only one 20 A fuse and it's good (located by the solenoid). Battery is 100%, I keep it on a tender. To start it, I have to jump across the solenoid. It starts immediately every time. What's the problem...what am I missing...Thanks in advance.
 

EngineMan

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Why did you disabled all the safety switches...?

Reason you can not start it is the above, you don't have power coming from the key switch to the solenoid when that is in start, reconnect safety switches and then work from there.

And you could have a Huskee Wheelbarrow.....has you don't say what model it is, the more info you give us, the more info we are likely to give you...!
 

dongraham

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The safety switches have been disabled for over 5 years and this problem just started last year. I think it's safe to say maybe it's something else.

My mower is a 21 hp 46"cut model #13AT688H131. I'm not sure what other info you would need? But I can provide you with whatever you think would help.

Could there be another fuse? The electrical diagram indicate two 20A but I can only locate one.

Could it be a bad wire or a bad connection somewhere along the way? Being able to jump the solenoid and it starts immediately is what confuses me.
 

EngineMan

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1 Have you got 12volt's on the small wire that go's to the solenoid.
2 Have you got 12volt's at the connect point of that wire on the ignition switch. start there...!
 

Rivets

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LawnRanger put this together and I twicked it a little, thought it might help.



Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*

Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*

Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*

Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*

Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*

Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
 

dongraham

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OK, I ordered and installed an OEM ignition switch...thinking that the one I got from tractor supply that says it fits MOST models...maybe mine wasn't one of the MOST...

First...the fuse is good (replaced with new just for brownie points), battery connections are in excellent shape, and the voltage is 12.8-12.9.

Second...reading 12.8 on the large terminal.

Third...I don't get voltage to the small terminal of the solenoid.

Fourth...12.8 volts.

Fifth... no voltage to the starter. (the seat safety switch has been disabled for 5+ years and the mower has started just fine up until a year ago).

Sixth...ground back to the battery is OK.

questions...comments?
 

Rivets

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Ok, try this. Take a jumper wire, fairly large like 14gage AC, and jump from the large terminal with voltage on the solenoid, to the small terminal on the solenoid. The engine should turn over and start if the key is in the run position. If it does then we are going to have to look at the wiring from the key to the solenoid.
 

dongraham

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Rivets,
This is the one and only way that I am able to continue to use my mower. It starts perfectly everytime I start it this way.

Still confused...
 

Rivets

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What you are doing is bypassing the safety circuit. You will have to go through the wiring starting at the small wire that leaves the battery terminal on the solenoid, goes to the key switch. From the (S) terminal on the key switch to the seat safety switch, to the PTO safety switch, to the brake safety switch and ends at the small terminal of the solenoid. If you have a test light, it would be the best tool to use, to find out where the circuit is broken.
 
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