Thanks so much for your help.Post complete model & serial numbers, thanks Mark
Just now seeing your update. This is the carb I purchased. Are you able to tell me if this is suitable?Post complete model & serial numbers, thanks Mark
Honda Power Equipment HRR216 S3DA OEM Parts, CyclePartsNation Honda Parts Nation
Shop our large selection of Honda Power Equipment HRR216 S3DA OEM Parts, original equipment manufacturer parts and more online or call at 269-385-1540www.hondapartsnation.comCarburetor is Honda OEM Part for your engine, items 12 & 13 gaskets. Fresh ethanol 87 gasoline, I prefer 93 octane with Star Tron fuel Treatment mixed per instructions on bottle. Inspect air filter & spark plug for replacement & adjust valves with engine cold, Change oil after warmup, let us know how it goes, thanks MarkHonda Power Equipment HRR216 S3DA Carburetor
Shop online for OEM Carburetor parts that fit your Honda Power Equipment HRR216 S3DA, search all our OEM Parts or call at 269-385-1540www.hondapartsnation.com
No, Honda OEM Parts are original replacement engine specific.Just now seeing your update. This is the carb I purchased. Are you able to tell me if this is suitable?
Given how difficult it is to replace the carb again, is there any way to make adjustments on it once it's installed? Do you think it's possible it just needs to be adjusted? Could it be related to the air/fuel mixture screw?No, Honda OEM Parts are original replacement engine specific.
Take off the air filter. Push the throttle to choke\start. In the carb right behind the black plastic that holds the air filter, do u see a 'brass' "door" closed or still open?Hi, I have a Honda HRR216 that I picked up off the street and trying to get running again. I replaced the carb, and it starts with a bit of starter fluid, but not on its own.
There's no primer bulb. Are there other adjustments I'm missing?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks so much for your help. It is fully open with the throttle in the fully on position.Take off the air filter. Push the throttle to choke\start. In the carb right behind the black plastic that holds the air filter, do u see a 'brass' "door" closed or still open?
EXACTLY!Thanks so much for your help. It is fully open with the throttle in the fully on position.
I believe it should be closed, to allow a greater concentration of gas to get it started, correct?
I think I know what you're talking about. The picture here is from when the throttle is fully ON. The choke should be in the closed position but it is not. You are right that it doesn't appear to go up far enough to fully close the choke. The arrows in red are part of the assembly that connects to the bar that forces the choke closed. Note that it is currently at a right angle. Making it horizontal would only be possible by flattening it in the direction of the bigger visible screen in my screenshot. I don't feel like the piece pointed to by the top red arrow is misshapen or bent like I would need to bend it back somehow.EXACTLY!
Have wifey keep moving the throttle all the way forward and back.
Now look just right of the air filter holder and you should see a piece turning as she moves the throttle.
NOW....just left of the part turning, as she pushes it all the way forward(choke), it should lift a piece. This piece closes the choke- that brass "door".
The piece that is pushed up, should be horizontal. Many times, this piece bends up so it doesn't travel far enough to close the choke. With needle nose pliers bend it so it is horizontal. Push it up with the pliers or have the wife push the throttle to choke again and see if the choke closes now. Bend that piece further down(but not too much) if the door(choke) doesn't fully close. If it does, try to start it now.
When I find hondas almost 1/2 the time it is this "feature".
If this is throttle pushed all the way forward to choke, then something is off with the cable. IF choke, the lever would be up right now.I think I know what you're talking about. The picture here is from when the throttle is fully ON.
Thanks again for your help. The throttle assembly didn't appear to be bent in any way, so I wanted to avoid bending it, unless it was absolutely necessary.Your top red arrow is correct- that is the level that leads to close the choke. Try it yourself and push that up and see if the choke closes. If it doesn't close, bend it down a little bit and check again. If ok, then try the throttle and see again.
With your picture, it is currently not pushed forward(thus pushing the choke) all the way yet. If the throttle is already all the way forward, maybe slipped forward in the clamp at the end of the cable's black jacket(it looks like it didn't, but....).
The throttle cable itself doesn't look like it slipped so the choke should be closing when u push the throttle all the way forward to choke but then again, loosen the screw and pull the throttle cable to the right(in your picture) a little bit and see if that resolves your problem...
I have seen where the "horizontal part" did wear a notch in it so that would also reduce it from moving far enough.
Yours doesn't look like it is worn but now u know what it is *supposed* to be doing.
It looks like all the parts are ok so it shouldn't take much adjustment to get it to work properly.
Glad to help. That's what we are here for...Thanks again for your help. The throttle assembly didn't appear to be bent in any way, so I wanted to avoid bending it, unless it was absolutely necessary.
Turns out I was able to simply adjust the throttle cable by just loosening the Phillips screw, sliding the cable down a bit, then tightening the screw. That was it!
So simple, but I did learn quite a bit in the process.