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Im sorry if this has been covered, I couldnt find any information on my particualr sitaution.

I have a Briggs & Stratton 20hp Vtwin Intek engine, model 406777 Type 0442. I recently replaced the carburetor with part#791230, manual choke.

Unbeknownst to me, the old carburetor was a choke-a-matic and should have been replaced with part#796258.

The new carb works and the engine runs great except.....it wont start cold without me manipulating the throttle linkage. I spent half an hour talking to B&S and that is how I found out I ordered the wrong carb. The old carb part# wasnt even in their system.

Anyways, does anyone know of a way I can rig this manual choke so that I do not have to buy another non returnable carb. (Wife is gonna lose it) I was thinking I could replace the bracket control, or just run some type of universal choke cable.

Any ideas?

Should be easy enough, as a manual choke is very simple to rig up. I will admit that I am not familiar with your original carb, so if you have any pics at all, that would be helpful.

But first question, did you look up your own part number then order it? Or did you have a shop look up the numbers for you, then order it and sell it to you?

I ordered the carb myself. I could not find any info on the one that was installed, original, and B&S didnt have the part number either. I found one that had pictures and looked exactly like mine and said it was for my hp range. B&S says obly difference is my engine type calls for auto choke and not manual which is what I bought.

The old carb had a spring which kept the choke valve closed until throttle was pushed passed full and into choke, then linkage would open choke plate.

Pictures are of new carb mounted with a close up of choke valve lever and of old carb woth choke valve difference.

jln5685 said:

I ordered the carb myself. I could not find any info on the one that was installed, original, and B&S didnt have the part number either. I found one that had pictures and looked exactly like mine and said it was for my hp range. B&S says obly difference is my engine type calls for auto choke and not manual which is what I bought.

The old carb had a spring which kept the choke valve closed until throttle was pushed passed full and into choke, then linkage would open choke plate.

Pictures are of new carb mounted with a close up of choke valve lever and of old carb woth choke valve difference.

Click to expand...

Well, here is how the vast majority of the carbs are set up. Your throttle rod looks bent a bit though.

You my have to scrounge a little hardware, but it shouldn't be too difficult. I have posted a pic of a normal setup, the pics are the same, except that I have moved the choke lever so you can see what you need to set up..

Looking at your pix closer, it looks like the choke engages when the throttle control moves on up into the "start" area, no real auto choke there. Can you take a pic of the throttle control?

The throttle linkage was bent a littlr because it was getting hung up on the intake manofold. Now it moves freely and no issues. I wont be able to get a picture of the throttle until tomorrow. Im on nights and came in at 3. What exactly do you want, the lever near the stearing wheel?

Well, the brand and the model/serial numbers off of the mower would probably help enough.

Mower is Ariens mod#960460011

Briggs and Stratton engine mod#406777 type#0442 B1

Sn#090909YG54643

So you just have one control that covers the choke and throttle? Sorry, I just got back from buying a little johnboat,
I haven't tried to conjure up anything from Gravely yet..

Thats right. The throttle runs up and down. Down is idle and up is full. You can push it up about another quarter inch to choke.

well, loosen the cable where it clamps on at the carb, and work it and slide it, and put the control on full choke, and then watch the linkages and see what is stopping it, or what needs to happen to move the choke lever. You may
just have to remove a part from your old carb, or something simple....

I was thinking about using the old carbs choke butterfly but the new carb doesnt have a stop on it like the old one. The old carb had a spring to keep the butterfly in a certain position until the throttle moves the linkage. Id have to look at it to see how the spring keept it, be it kept open or closed.

I think it would easiest to either replace the bracket that the throttle and choke linkage connects too, or just add a new choke cable.

It's weird to think B&S did not have the part number in their system. It shows in PartSmart

Also shows on The Power Portal

I dunno, but when I read him the part# he said it wasnt in the system. I alsp printed a parts list from thier website and it wasnt listed on it either.

The old carb is part #795968

Fish said:

View attachment 21759

Well, here is how the vast majority of the carbs are set up. Your throttle rod looks bent a bit though.

You my have to scrounge a little hardware, but it shouldn't be too difficult. I have posted a pic of a normal setup, the pics are the same, except that I have moved the choke lever so you can see what you need to set up..


View attachment 21760

Click to expand...

Thanks, your picture helped tremendously. Between your picture and B&S parts list, I was able to piece together what I think I need. I ordered the bracket and all the hardware. Just need to find a cable. Any suggestions on a universal cable? The only B&S cables I found were close to 40 bucks, and I didnt see any cables in my parts guide to know if the ones I found would work.

Just measure the length, and drop by a NAPA or auto zone, they should have generic choke cables

I could really use the end result pics of this modification right about now.. Bump from 2014 :confused2:

Email me at sales at smallenginesuppliers dot com and I will send you a video I have of the conversion. (NOTE: The forum would not let me post the email address correctly so you'll have to put 2+2 together)

The end result was a generic choke cable. I bought the cable from Amazon, ran it and drilled a hole near the steering wheel to mount the top. It worked well and I got use of the nower until the frame rusted where the transmission bolts to it. Shortly after I bought a new one. I saved the motor though.

Great thanks guys. I will try and obtain the video, but the tip on the cable helps. I understand the theory in play, just trying to better understand how to go both directions if needed. Knowledge is power !

Thanks to the excellent fella over at small engines suppliers, we have an easy fix with briggs part numbers, at least for most of the newer V-twin Intek/professional/commercial turf lineup.

Choke Control Bracket : PN 691021
Screws (2) : PN 695239
Choke Link : PN 691022

Basically just remove your old linkage, unplug the fuel shutoff solenoid, install the new linkage, install the control bracket right under the intake manifold, and connect with the 2 screws. Connect the new linkage to the back adjustment hole. Now just mount your manual choke cable to the adjustment arm.

I will include screen shots, because this video saved me a world of headache, and it's bound to help someone else!

Homer1 said:

Thanks to the excellent fella over at small engines suppliers, we have an easy fix with briggs part numbers, at least for most of the newer V-twin Intek/professional/commercial turf lineup.

Choke Control Bracket : PN 691021
Screws (2) : PN 695239
Choke Link : PN 691022

Basically just remove your old linkage, unplug the fuel shutoff solenoid, install the new linkage, install the control bracket right under the intake manifold, and connect with the 2 screws. Connect the new linkage to the back adjustment hole. Now just mount your manual choke cable to the adjustment arm.

I will include screen shots, because this video saved me a world of headache, and it's bound to help someone else!

Click to expand...

I am dealing with same linkage or lack there of on my craftsman rider I picked up off of curb. Mine had the choke a matic carb set up but it did not have the correct bracket. Mine has the manual choke braket on it. So I looked on the sears parts web page and they don't even show the carb that I have, something totally different. So I went to the Briggs page and found the correct bracket only to discover they no longer sell it. So I am going to by a generic choke cable and make mine a manual choke engine.

Homer1 said:

Connect the new linkage to the back adjustment hole.

Click to expand...

I wish I had read your post more carefully. Just to reiterate: The hole that the choke-a-matic linkage goes into is _not_ the manual choke linkage hole.