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How to replace Gilson's start motor?
#1
balooba
balooba
Hello everybody!
My trusty old Gilson S-Twin 18HP's startmotor should be replaced.
I should remove the whole B&S two cylinder engine (horisontal axel) before replacing the start motor but I do not know how.
Above, you can see the start moror between the cylinder and the frame.
The engine is with four bolts but how is it connected to the Hydrdostatic transmission?
I can't see it, how the engine is coupled to the transmission.
All ideas, advice and tips are welcome! BIG thanks in advance!
My trusty old Gilson S-Twin 18HP's startmotor should be replaced.
I should remove the whole B&S two cylinder engine (horisontal axel) before replacing the start motor but I do not know how.
Above, you can see the start moror between the cylinder and the frame.
The engine is with four bolts but how is it connected to the Hydrdostatic transmission?
I can't see it, how the engine is coupled to the transmission.
All ideas, advice and tips are welcome! BIG thanks in advance!
#2
ILENGINE
ILENGINE
#3
balooba
But underneath doesn't work, can't access from there.
It looks like I have to take the cross joint apart. That's two nuts.
To do that I have to figure out
a) the cross joint is visible from a narrow space, but I don't know…
b) propably I have to remove the fuel tank, battery etc
balooba
I think you're right.
But underneath doesn't work, can't access from there.
It looks like I have to take the cross joint apart. That's two nuts.
To do that I have to figure out
a) the cross joint is visible from a narrow space, but I don't know…
b) propably I have to remove the fuel tank, battery etc
#4
ILENGINE
ILENGINE
#5
balooba
But, I'll try first the option C.
I open/remove the four engine nuts so that the engine is loose. Maybe the cross joint - or cross joints - are flexible enough to let me lift the engine a bit and wiggle the start motor away... It is only about a centimeter or two.
To be honest, I do not really get it why all my stuff, lawnmowers, cars, washing machines have to be totally dismantelled before I can replace that small part? In this case it looks like the whole Gilson is built around this start motor!
balooba
Yes, you are right, b it is.
But, I'll try first the option C.
I open/remove the four engine nuts so that the engine is loose. Maybe the cross joint - or cross joints - are flexible enough to let me lift the engine a bit and wiggle the start motor away... It is only about a centimeter or two.
To be honest, I do not really get it why all my stuff, lawnmowers, cars, washing machines have to be totally dismantelled before I can replace that small part? In this case it looks like the whole Gilson is built around this start motor!
#6
ILENGINE
ILENGINE
#7
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
#8
balooba
balooba
Yes, fun it is! I guess... I try to be smart and solve issues in advance.
In this Gilson the engine seems to be with four bolts. Easy but the bolts and nuts are well hided. Let's see if I manage to do something this weekend.
This is how it looks...
In this Gilson the engine seems to be with four bolts. Easy but the bolts and nuts are well hided. Let's see if I manage to do something this weekend.
This is how it looks...
#10
balooba
Today I managed to loose the PTO belt, open the four bolts and look at this, image below, I think there's enough room to replace the start motor...
Looking good. If everything goes okay, then I'll have the start motor replaced soon!
Above left, the space before lifting the engine. Right, engine bolts open, engine lifted.
I marked with red the space.
Note: not easy to just open/loose some nuts and bolts. Incredible. It took me a great effort and 1/2 hour to get some bolt opened.
To be continued.
balooba
I think your memory is good. Thank you.
Today I managed to loose the PTO belt, open the four bolts and look at this, image below, I think there's enough room to replace the start motor...
Looking good. If everything goes okay, then I'll have the start motor replaced soon!
Above left, the space before lifting the engine. Right, engine bolts open, engine lifted.
I marked with red the space.
Note: not easy to just open/loose some nuts and bolts. Incredible. It took me a great effort and 1/2 hour to get some bolt opened.
To be continued.
#11
balooba
balooba
Mission accomplished.
Thank you very much, you all!
Thanks for the tips and support.
Shortly - it was not an easy effort (for me).
I removed the four engine bolts and after that it is possible to lift up the engine to give enough clearance. In theory.
Good thing is that I did NOT have to remove/disconnect the transmission.
But, there was still a iron engine support bar preventing to remove the start motor. I cut that bar, replaced the start motor and welded back the bar.
And thanks to the tips, yeah, I used a cheap Chinese start motor...
Here some photos...
Above, old start motor (left) and the new Chinese one (right)
Above, here you see, enough with clearance but that steel bar (arrow) prevent to remove the old start motor. I had to cut that bar.
Above, the new start motor behind the welded steel bar... I had to cut that bar.
Anyway, thank you very much for all the tips, help and support.
Lawnmowerforum is the best!
Thank you very much, you all!
Thanks for the tips and support.
Shortly - it was not an easy effort (for me).
I removed the four engine bolts and after that it is possible to lift up the engine to give enough clearance. In theory.
Good thing is that I did NOT have to remove/disconnect the transmission.
But, there was still a iron engine support bar preventing to remove the start motor. I cut that bar, replaced the start motor and welded back the bar.
And thanks to the tips, yeah, I used a cheap Chinese start motor...
Here some photos...
Above, old start motor (left) and the new Chinese one (right)
Above, here you see, enough with clearance but that steel bar (arrow) prevent to remove the old start motor. I had to cut that bar.
Above, the new start motor behind the welded steel bar... I had to cut that bar.
Anyway, thank you very much for all the tips, help and support.
Lawnmowerforum is the best!