Attached pics denote the Harbor Freight Harmonic Balancer puller I used to pull my Kawasaki FC420V flywheel. I found this the safest method to pull this flywheel since the engine casing was aluminum and some areas around perimeter a thin flared extrusion that could have cracked with much bar prying. I just did not feel confident in prying on this casing. You can buy (or rent) similar pullers at any auto parts store.
I first sprayed the crankshaft nut with PBlaster penetrating oil and then loosened it with an air impact wrench. My impact wrench is not that heavy duty and my compressor is small. It took 3 or 4 repeated trigger shots to break it loose. But was easier than trying to brace it and whack the nut off with a mallet on the wrench.
I left the loosened flywheel nut on the crankshaft but backed off about 3/8 to 1/2" to keep the flywheel from popping up too much when it later would pop loose. I then sprayed PBlaster on the crankshaft where it came out the flywheel to help break loose any corrosion. This flywheel had been on for 19 yrs.
I mounted the puller center rod on the crankshaft end not the crankshaft nut. The puller has a pointed taper that fit into the tapered hole on the crankshaft end. I screwed down all 3 bracket bolts to a point where the puller center rod appeared perpendicular to the flywheel and the puller bracket appeared parallel with flywheel.
The puller only came with two bolts of the length I needed but I bought a third at the hardware store with some more washers as I heard the washers that came with it bend. When ever I buy replacement bolts or washers I always get grade 8 if possible, grade 5 at least. If you buy H.F. stuff you will need new bolts after some jobs. But for the price you still come out ahead (usually).
Then I began to tighten each of the 3 perimeter puller bolts 1/8 turn at a time moving around bolt to bolt. I did not tighten the puller center rod as in the past I've seen that twist the puller bracket and lean the 3 bolts which in some cases broke one or more of the bolts.
Additionally after turning all 3 bolts 1/8 turn I then tapped firmly (but not real hard) on the top of the puller center rod with a ball peen hammer. This creates the same effect as tapping on the crank nut or bolt while using a pry bar under the flywheel. But without the risk of cracking anything.
I did 3 maybe 4 sets of turning the bolts 1/8 turn and tapping and the flywheel popped loose. It came up pretty hard so I'm glad I left the crank nut on. Additionally I guess really I should have hunted down an old socket to put over the end of the puller center shaft but I didn't really hit it that hard. But if I used it often the socket would protect it from burrs.
That's all, just figured I'd post this up for anyone that never pulled their flywheel and had an engine case that they were concerned might crack with the pry bar method.
I first sprayed the crankshaft nut with PBlaster penetrating oil and then loosened it with an air impact wrench. My impact wrench is not that heavy duty and my compressor is small. It took 3 or 4 repeated trigger shots to break it loose. But was easier than trying to brace it and whack the nut off with a mallet on the wrench.
I left the loosened flywheel nut on the crankshaft but backed off about 3/8 to 1/2" to keep the flywheel from popping up too much when it later would pop loose. I then sprayed PBlaster on the crankshaft where it came out the flywheel to help break loose any corrosion. This flywheel had been on for 19 yrs.
I mounted the puller center rod on the crankshaft end not the crankshaft nut. The puller has a pointed taper that fit into the tapered hole on the crankshaft end. I screwed down all 3 bracket bolts to a point where the puller center rod appeared perpendicular to the flywheel and the puller bracket appeared parallel with flywheel.
The puller only came with two bolts of the length I needed but I bought a third at the hardware store with some more washers as I heard the washers that came with it bend. When ever I buy replacement bolts or washers I always get grade 8 if possible, grade 5 at least. If you buy H.F. stuff you will need new bolts after some jobs. But for the price you still come out ahead (usually).
Then I began to tighten each of the 3 perimeter puller bolts 1/8 turn at a time moving around bolt to bolt. I did not tighten the puller center rod as in the past I've seen that twist the puller bracket and lean the 3 bolts which in some cases broke one or more of the bolts.
Additionally after turning all 3 bolts 1/8 turn I then tapped firmly (but not real hard) on the top of the puller center rod with a ball peen hammer. This creates the same effect as tapping on the crank nut or bolt while using a pry bar under the flywheel. But without the risk of cracking anything.
I did 3 maybe 4 sets of turning the bolts 1/8 turn and tapping and the flywheel popped loose. It came up pretty hard so I'm glad I left the crank nut on. Additionally I guess really I should have hunted down an old socket to put over the end of the puller center shaft but I didn't really hit it that hard. But if I used it often the socket would protect it from burrs.
That's all, just figured I'd post this up for anyone that never pulled their flywheel and had an engine case that they were concerned might crack with the pry bar method.
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