how close to gas tank is safe?

[knothole]

i had a 20hp b and s v twin II in my huskee mower. i bought a new holland zero turn with a 16hp b and s ohv with a broken rod. damage to sump is too bad to rebuild the 16hp and be cost effective. so i removed the 20hp from my huskee riding mower and installed it on the new holland. i had to drill new mounting bolt holes to have the exhaust go out to the back and the shaft be centered. now there is about 1/4 inch clearance from the cylinder head and the gas tank. you guys think this is too close? still have to figure out exhaust, original is too short to make it to the back of the mower. as far as wiring i had some problems there too. the original 16 hp modle 286h77 0165-e1 had 1 wire from under flywheel going to regulator then 2 wires in a connector. 1 went to fuel tank (so 12v?) and the other went to stator for ground kill? my 20hp modle 461707 0143 e1 has 2 from under flywheel going to same type connector as 16 and a single wire for the stator. so i traced the wire as best as i could on the old mower and the red wire with black stripe went strait to ignition switch then to fuse then to starter solenoid i think is what that part is? the white wire in the connector went straight to the head light switch. so i hooked up the kill wire to the mower and the red/black stripe wire to the mower. it goes to fuse then ignition instead of ignition then fuse but it's same connection. i did not hook up the white wire at all. mower starts and runs fine and pto works as well. only ran for a minute or less since no exhaust right now. so is that ok to wire like that? battery while running with no pto was showing 12.79v on my volt meter. the pto it powered from ignition switch. should i removed that wire from ignition and splice in the white wire from engine that was running lights or just leave it as it is? so wiring question and is engine to close to gas tank question. thanks....knothole

 

[Kenneth]

i had a 20hp b and s v twin II in my huskee mower. i bought a new holland zero turn with a 16hp b and s ohv with a broken rod. damage to sump is too bad to rebuild the 16hp and be cost effective. so i removed the 20hp from my huskee riding mower and installed it on the new holland. i had to drill new mounting bolt holes to have the exhaust go out to the back and the shaft be centered. now there is about 1/4 inch clearance from the cylinder head and the gas tank. you guys think this is too close? still have to figure out exhaust, original is too short to make it to the back of the mower. as far as wiring i had some problems there too. the original 16 hp modle 286h77 0165-e1 had 1 wire from under flywheel going to regulator then 2 wires in a connector. 1 went to fuel tank (so 12v?) and the other went to stator for ground kill? my 20hp modle 461707 0143 e1 has 2 from under flywheel going to same type connector as 16 and a single wire for the stator. so i traced the wire as best as i could on the old mower and the red wire with black stripe went strait to ignition switch then to fuse then to starter solenoid i think is what that part is? the white wire in the connector went straight to the head light switch. so i hooked up the kill wire to the mower and the red/black stripe wire to the mower. it goes to fuse then ignition instead of ignition then fuse but it's same connection. i did not hook up the white wire at all. mower starts and runs fine and pto works as well. only ran for a minute or less since no exhaust right now. so is that ok to wire like that? battery while running with no pto was showing 12.79v on my volt meter. the pto it powered from ignition switch. should i removed that wire from ignition and splice in the white wire from engine that was running lights or just leave it as it is? so wiring question and is engine to close to gas tank question. thanks....knothole

Sounds like you got a handle on it. Now I know less than anyone about electrical. But about that gas tank, probly be okay. But I'd put something between the tank and motor. Just to be sure. Piece of tin ought a do it

 

[exotion]

Sounds like you got a handle on it. Now I know less than anyone about electrical. But about that gas tank, probly be okay. But I'd put something between the tank and motor. Just to be sure. Piece of tin ought a do it

That heat shielding material is availiable at every car parts store. And most hardware stores

 

[Winger]

See if you can find some heat wrap. It's used on car headers to keep the heat in as they get really hot. And a bit of some reflective metal tape should do the trick.