Honda HRG466 makes my brain hurt.

Michael T

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Hi guys. New member first post

please bear with me, long post with an issue I have been attempting to solve and all the below I posted into a Facebook Honda mower forum with little or no response so I’m hoping for better here because this is really driving me crazy. I have tried to upload a video to this post but it won’t seem to allow that.
This is a UK spec machine bought and used in the UK. Any help appreciated. Thanks.


I have a Honda IZY with a GCV160 motor. It’s a few years old now but generally in great condition but has recently developed a problem I just can’t fathom. It was cutting out when warm and wouldn’t restart. I have removed the carb, which although spotless inside I dismantled and cleaned thoroughly. Checked the cap vent, removed the petrol tank and flushed it, including the filter though again it was clean. I have fitted a new spark plug and adjusted the ignition coil air gap. It now runs smoother and doesn’t cut out once running but warm or cold it refuses to start unless I physically grab the push handle and shake the whole machine up and down after which it starts first time. Then as soon as I stop it it refuses to restart without doing the same shaking procedure that I discovered by accident in temper with it.

Anyone any idea what could be causing this issue? All advice greatly appreciated. Thanks.



Update…. I was out this afternoon and called into a garden centre with a dedicated machinery shop that are Honda agents. I spoke to a guy there and explained my problem as above and straight away he said it’s the thermostat and a common problem. I never even knew it had a thermostat and he said it’s like a plunger located in a plastic section sandwiched between the engine and carburettor. I had seen this when removing the carb but didn’t really know what it was. He said they get stuck and need freeing off and lubricating.

Haven’t had chance to check it out yet but will report back when I have.



New update.

Have today removed carburettor and removed the auto choke thermowax pellet which was a bit of a nightmare as it was firmly stuck in its port being as Honda cover it in a sticky black gum to hold it in place. Seriously that sucker is going nowhere! An absolute pig to pull out with very little to get hold of. Managed in the end with a V ended pry bar and mole grips. I then removed the choke unit that is sandwiched between the block and the carb and checked the movement of the sprung flap and initially thought it was ok after a clean and lube with silicone spray but then on closer inspection I noticed that in the fully open position it tends to stick. The return relies purely on springs of which there are 3 in various positions and I have found in some spots some tails of the springs chafe on the plastic body and other parts, this combined with the fact the rotation feels almost like a cam action and once it gets past a certain point this increases the power required to pull it back hence once open it is not closing automatically as it should and it must be the shock of shaking the mower by the handles as previously described that is enough to free the lever and therefore close the choke that enables starting.



I have now discovered that Honda have been aware of this issue for a few years and have manufactured a modified and upgraded thermowax pellet, a modified whole choke unit as well as a carburettor. They will charge you handsomely for these parts despite it being a bad design that causes the need for them once there is wear in the originals.

Even so locating the genuine updated parts is almost impossible but thankfully pattern parts are freely available from eBay sellers based in China at very reasonable prices.

I have ordered a genuine thermowax pellet found in uk and the choke from China.



I now eagerly await their arrival and fitting to prove this is the cure.

Though I am told this is a fairly common problem with auto-choke easy start gcv models the finding of this information has been hugely time consuming so I hope this will help others suffering similar issues and will update once I can confirm all is well.



🤬🤬🤬 I am now pulling my hair out regarding this engine and am at at a complete loss knowing where to turn next!

The ordered thermowax pellet and the new auto choke arrived in the last few days. I have this morning with the utmost confidence of curing my problem fitted the parts being ultra careful as I went. All back together and time for the test that is going to be a complete success …. Pull the start cord and……nothing, absolutely nothing. Double and treble check I have done everything correctly, fuel on start lever forward pull again nada, squat, f all.

I grab the handle lift the mower and bounce it off the ground a couple of times, pull the start cord….starts straight away!

Just WTF IS GOING ON HERE?

I just hate being beaten but don’t know where to turn next

A new pattern carburettor?

A new ignition coil?
 

ILENGINE

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I am wondering if the switch isn't being opened properly when the handle is pulled and the shaking of the mower create enough vibration to open the switch to run Item 5 on this diagram https://www.gardenhirespares.co.uk/honda-hrg466c1-skeh-flywheel-ignition-coil-diagram.html

Could also be a case of the cable isn't pulling the brake far enough to open the kill switch. Something to check is next time it doesn't start remove the spark plug and reinstall in the wire and then ground the plug against the metal part of the engine and then while cranking check for spark.
 

Michael T

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I am wondering if the switch isn't being opened properly when the handle is pulled and the shaking of the mower create enough vibration to open the switch to run Item 5 on this diagram https://www.gardenhirespares.co.uk/honda-hrg466c1-skeh-flywheel-ignition-coil-diagram.html

Could also be a case of the cable isn't pulling the brake far enough to open the kill switch. Something to check is next time it doesn't start remove the spark plug and reinstall in the wire and then ground the plug against the metal part of the engine and then while cranking check for spark.
 

Michael T

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Thanks so much for your suggestion.
I honestly have not seen or recognise that switch marked number 5. I will take another look. As for the kill switch, on releasing the engine run handle it is touching the rotor as far as I can see and on pulling the handle it moves around 15mm away.
It’s so weird that this failure to start seems to make no difference hot or cold, happens virtually every start up and is alleviated by shaking the machine. You would think a switch or electrical fault would be more intermittent.
 

ILENGINE

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I am just wondering if the engine control handle isn't pulling the brake/kill release far enough and that little bit of shaking is enough to move it just far enough to work.
 

Michael T

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I am just wondering if the engine control handle isn't pulling the brake/kill release far enough and that little bit of shaking is enough to move it just far enough to work.
Thanks again. I will check all this soon as I next get a chance to spend some time on it but as I stated above the kill pad is moving away from the rotor by around 15 mm when the handle is pulled.
 

Michael T

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Thanks again. I will check all this soon as I next get a chance to spend some time on it but as I stated above the kill pad is moving away from the rotor by around 15 mm when the handle is pulled.
Have just seen a video on YouTube on replacing the kill switch, this is an item I have not checked, it is the brake that is moving away 15 mm. Looks like you may need some special tools to remove the rotor for access to this switch but I will look into it.
 
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