Export thread

Hi People,
I received a new HRN216tda from H.D. today with factory camshaft replaced to replace a 20 Y.O. HRR216 that still runs great, deck was shot. book on the new cgv170 says change oil after 5hrs but really, how many hours does to take to seat the rings etc before I change the oil and use synthetic 10w30 from then on

I would change the oil immediately after every mow for at least 4 mowings. Or until, out in the sun, you see, all the metal is gone from the sump. Look AT the used oil with magnifying glasses on. You will see a ton of metal flakes initially. Then another dump or two for good luck.

That engine only holds ounces of oil. Oil is cheap. Don't even have to change a filter as it lacks one.

Change after 5 hours and you’re ready to go for the season. Today’s valves and rings on small engines don’t need multiple changes for breakin. Save your $$$$, oils going to get expensive.

Rivets said:

Change after 5 hours and you’re ready to go for the season. Today’s valves and rings on small engines don’t need multiple changes for breakin. Save your $$$$, oils going to get expensive.

Click to expand...

Changing oil and filter on any small engine that is brand new after 5 hours makes good sense. Oil changes are cheap and engines, parts, and labor, not so much.

Hi Again,
My question was more of how many hours to run the OEM10w-30 conventional oil for break-in oil in a
small engine before using switching to 10w-30 synthetic oil which reduces engine wear exponentially they say. Then I change it normally.

​

5 hours, then use whatever oil you would like to use.

Thank you!

billroy1 said:

Hi Again,
My question was more of how many hours to run the OEM10w-30 conventional oil for break-in oil in a
small engine before using switching to 10w-30 synthetic oil which reduces engine wear exponentially they say. Then I change it normally.

​

Click to expand...

It's not an hourly time period. Has zero to do with time.

Has everything to do with removing the break-in metals from the oil sump.

This is a push mower engine. It holds what 18 ounces of oil? What 2 bucks per oil dump?

I would after 30 minutes or 1 cutting. then at 1 hour for 2 changes. I agree look at oil until silver is gone when draining. I do this when breaking in a new generator. Once done, I put it away full of clean oil, no gas, ready to run 20+ hours when needed. To NOT break in a lawnmower or generator reduces life like oh sooo much. my 2 cents.

Rivets said:

Change after 5 hours and you’re ready to go for the season. Today’s valves and rings on small engines don’t need multiple changes for breakin. Save your $$$$, oils going to get expensive.

Click to expand...

Today's engines often come with machining swarf still in the case.....

Honda has been building engines for a while. Most Hondas you get with a gas motor cost more than the competition. I have one simple question, why don't you just follow the directions they provide in he user manual. Honestly, why would they provide the manual for a new product, if they thought people would ignore it and go to a forum and ask, "what should I do?" This forum is great, it's helped thousands of people fix problems on older equipment. that being said, they can't and won't provide a manufacturer's warranty. Just my 2 cents.

billroy1 said:

Hi People,
I received a new HRN216tda from H.D. today with factory camshaft replaced to replace a 20 Y.O. HRR216 that still runs great, deck was shot. book on the new cgv170 says change oil after 5hrs but really, how many hours does to take to seat the rings etc before I change the oil and use synthetic 10w30 from then on

Click to expand...

Shouldn't go wrong following manufacturers directions.

Your assumption is correct that it really doesn't take that long to seat everything in or the rings and such but the bigger risk is leaving the metal shavings and contaminants and all the grit in there for too long.
I'm happy some engine manufacturers still tell people to do this the proper way.

I do hundreds of mowers every season and you can always tell when an engine still has its factory fill oil in there because it will have a gray metallic sheen to it.
This is not good.
This is the only time the oil in a small push mower will ever have that tint or metallic to it UNLESS it is run dangerously low on oil almost to the point of snapping a rod or locking up and scoring the cylinder wall.

I would say at least two Mo's mainly for the hot cold heat cycle but three would be fine too so somewhere in the 2 to 3 hours I would change the first oil but the 5 hours is just fine also.

Don't know what all you're thinking about using and don't want to get into it about oil which is not nearly as bad here as it is in the Facebook groups but I'm not a fan of full synthetic or anything like that because it's just a waste of money because it's a lawnmower engine and they are low performance little turds and hardly any of them ever get worn out.
Like you just posted, a 20-year-old engine that still runs great.
Even with the typical neglect they've received they still hardly ever wear out.
You have to amazingly abuse them like running them without enough oil in them or hitting stumps etc or a massively overrevving one to actually damage these things or wear them out.

I don't think synthetic oil is necessary because you're going to get unbelievable life out of them anyways with just standard oil.
I also don't think you need to buy the Honda brand oil. Lol
Now there is a debate going on and some people who work at shops etc will argue about special oil for air cooled engines or even start to talk about zinc.
If you want zinc either get some 15 w 40 rotella or check the actual spec sheets and find a rotella because they do have straight 30 weight also that has zinc around 900 to 1,000 parts per million or just go buy some Valvoline VR1 racing conventional oil and not the synthetic because it has like 1100 or 1200 parts per million the last time I checked.

THEN YOU'LL HAVE A FEW PEOPLE THAT WILL COMPLAIN THAT YOU HAVE TO PUT 10W30 IN A HONDA BECAUSE IT SAYS THAT ON THE SIDE.

Whatever pedantic people who think there's only one way to do everything. Lol
The fact is you can run about any oil you want to in these things and they are still 20 plus year motors.
There's absolutely zero reason you need to put a multigrade 10W30 oil and a Honda GCV or similar engine and a standard 30 weight will work just fine.
In fact, I believe the 30wt gives us better protection than most 10w30s in most situations.

Others will argue but nobody has any proof to back it up so it's all just opinions and preferences.

I know I've never had a small engine out of the 10,000 plus that I've worked on that ever had and all related failure that was anything other than a lack of oil!

I can also tell you I've seen thousands of them run on SAE 30 or hd30 and they're still going fine.

The only exception that I know of is for the old color commands with hydraulic lifters and if you used SAE 30 in those you can end up getting a clicking or tapping sound that wasn't very favorable so those get 10w30.
Hondas, Chinese built once, and everything else gets 30 and it's just fine.

Oil is cheap , engines are not , do what you think is the right thing that way you will not make a mistake and only have one person to blame
Me , I would do 1 hr , 5 hrs , 10hrs then per the book , if thats not right can I blame you please ?
Oz

If you guys are worried about wasting oil, drain it in a coffee filter and pour it back in. Again we are talking 18 ounces of oil per oil dump. Do "something" to get the metal out.

Go to wallymart and get a gallon of SAE 30W oil. All of what 13 bucks?

You have to get the metal out of the oil sump guys. It's not about what the manual says.