Export thread

I'm having a problem where my backpack leaf blower only idles, but does not run when I pulled the trigger. Spark arrestor is clean, air filter is clean, fuel filter is clean, carb is clean.
I was thinking about adjusting the high and low screws but I can't because they're not screws. Does anyone know what tool I can use to adjust these? It doesn't look like a PacMan screw
Any other suggestions are welcome.

Similar to pacman tool but instead of a pacman mouth there is a pin off of the edge of the tool that gets inserted into that hole in the screw.

Thanks all. Kinda funny the tool shape\type is called eccentric.
Any other thoughts as to what the issue can be?

yes, is it possible you are using the wrong tool? I see a lot of scratches, ding, divots and otherwise.

It called an "A Circle" and ScrubCadet has linked the kit of tools that has it in it.

By other options I was asking if the carb adjustment isn't the problem, what else I can check . It's not quite a year old but the fuel line and airline that also goes in the tank could probably be replaced. Seems to be a bit deteriorated. Diaphragm is good
Could I put clean gas and run it temporarily without the fuel filter?

I bought the kit and hoping this will fix the issue. Thanks again everyone.

I have seen newly carburetor repair kits to go bad in a few weeks. There more involved than just slapping in repair kit. First carburetor must be cleaned. The metering lever must be set correctly and the mixture settings set. And these mixture adjustment can change with a few days after a new repair kit is install and fuel mix is present. It is one reason I don't return a machine for a few days to let things settle in.

As for diaphragm being good it is relative as new one to go bad within a few days. You must how they should be normally. I had one from a new Walbro kit to go bad in a week this year. It all depends what is in the fuel mix. There is a lot additives in today's fuel that can damage rubber components.

As for running it was without the fuel filter it is not advisable as there can still be trash in the fuel tank that can clog the tiny passages in the carburetor. Example: I use drive 79 Chevy Malibu that had a paper filter at the carburetor that would clog up everytime I ran unleaded plus fuel through it. It happen so much I keep the tools and filter in my truck. Good thing too as one time was on the interstate out of Knoxville when the engine stalled due to filter being clogged.

Without knowing carburetor it is or what equipment is on I would not know if it is a Clone of a Walbro or Zama. I personally haven't seen the A circle mixture adjustment screws here yet. Of course I haven't seen the octagon Stihl mixture screws either but I already added that tool to my collection.

The EPA requires these crazy adjustment screws and think every machine is prefect out of the factory which they are not. I have seen replacement so out adjustment that they will barely work as a will start setting.

StarTech said:

Without knowing carburetor it is or what equipment is on I would not know if it is a Clone of a Walbro or Zama. I personally haven't seen the A circle mixture adjustment screws here yet. Of course I haven't seen the octagon Stihl mixture screws either but I already added that tool to my collection.

The EPA requires these crazy adjustment screws and think every machine is prefect out of the factory which they are not. I have seen replacement so out adjustment that they will barely work as a will start setting.

Click to expand...

The A circle are fairly common on MTD Yard Machine, Yard Man and Remington trimmers. Seems like when I got my A tool it was still a OEM tool only and $38 then MTD was forced to stop selling the adjustment tools to dealers under pressure from the EPA because we were not equipped to do emissions testing after adjustment.

ILENGINE said:

The A circle are fairly common on MTD Yard Machine, Yard Man and Remington trimmers. Seems like when I got my A tool it was still a OEM tool only and $38 then MTD was forced to stop selling the adjustment tools to dealers under pressure from the EPA because we were not equipped to do emissions testing after adjustment.

Click to expand...

I haven't just not seen them yet then. The Remington trimmers here has the 21 spline adjusters. The customer burned both them with few hours per the customer out of the box because they were so out of adjustment. But the pistons looks like they ran a lot longer. Anyway both are trash now.

StarTech said:

I haven't just not seen them yet then. The Remington trimmers here has the 21 spline adjusters. The customer burned both them with few hours per the customer out of the box because they were so out of adjustment. But the pistons looks like they ran a lot longer. Anyway both are trash now.
View attachment 62518View attachment 62519

Click to expand...

The only spline adjusters I see are the ones on Poulan/Husqvarna. The other MTD I see is the single D adjusters.

Thank you so much all. I guess we gotta do the good ol' process of elimination as with any other engine problem. If it sheds any light on anything, this is the blower. I got it for my parents because of the auto-start. That feature works great by the way...
LawnMaster NPTBL31AB No-Pull Backpack Leaf Blower, Gas-Powered with Electric Start, 31cc 2-Cycle Engine, 470CFM, 175MPH
https://a.co/d/2n6KCd8
I got the warranty but wanted to try a few things before going that route.

I did a double D recently (I think it was a Black Max) but most of the handheld equipment coming here is Stihl so it is flat blade or hex but Stihl dealer warned me that the Octagon is on its way now so I him to order me the tool.

But every region will have a different set tools needed base on what is most commonly sold in that area.

Too bad I can't get carburetor kits for Stihl equipment anymore from Zama. Even the Stihl dealer I use can't get the Stihl version of the carburetor kits so I having to install new carburetors. I got a box of carburetors to strip down for the screws. What a shame I use to repair nearly every Zama they had on the equipment.

Last year when I found the Zama kits were becoming non-exist for the Stihls I brought the last 7 kits for the MS250 chainsaws my distributor had. Done use two of them this Fall. Save the customer nearly $80 of the new carburetor price tag per saw.

IF the parts list is true then they don't even sell a replacement carburetor or many of replacement parts. So it is considered a use it until broken then throw away blower and buy another one.

cootertwo said:

https://www.amazon.com/Lucky-Seven-Carburetor-Adjustment-Carburator/dp/B07XG2L2NT/ref=dp_prsubs_2?pd_rd_w=FDnGl&content-id=amzn1.sym.d20ffcc8-a6b0-4cbb-83cc-8be2fe61f82c&pf_rd_p=d20ffcc8-a6b0-4cbb-83cc-8be2fe61f82c&pf_rd_r=D2YD2P5H40JFK9FHB8FR&pd_rd_wg=JUtgy&pd_rd_r=30e04fe8-ffcd-4358-9874-1a0cc6ab5372&pd_rd_i=B07XG2L2NT&psc=1

Click to expand...

Doesn't contain the A circle tools.

For those in the business this a better option for the tools a nd it has the large and small versions of the Single D, Pac Man, and the A Circle.
14 PC set of 2 cycle carburetor tools

A carb adjustment was all that was needed! A little tweak to the high and low screws, using the specialty tool, and it's working perfectly!



Thanks all.

DougPunchak said:

Does anyone know what tool I can use to adjust these?

Click to expand...

On my personal stuff when I came across this, I used a dremel tool cutting disk and cut slots on the 2 mix screws. I don't want to buy the tool only to adjust it once...

upupandaway said:

On my personal stuff when I came across this, I used a dremel tool cutting disk and cut slots on the 2 mix screws. I don't want to buy the tool only to adjust it once...

Click to expand...

That is the difference DYIer hacker and a Professional shop tech. We use the tools a lot more than most think and we don't mind spending a few dollars for the right tools. Just wish there was single D that would fit the Kohler carbs; although, I made my own version. Maybe one that I just not found yet.

And I just paid $16 for an Octagon carburetor tool for a Stihl carburetor.

I buy parts when I am fixing for others, but if I didn't hack\cnc alternate\new parts, my old machines wouldn't be running as parts being NLA.

I actually get alot of oldies\goodies because the shops are firm with your attitude. A Western Auto tiller only needed a new 10" wheel which to the shop is NLA, as that was the only thing wrong with it. They left it out for trash, fresh gas, it started on 2 pulls. If I ran a shop, like my posts, I would offer the owner alternatives- in this one case u can get a wheel that fits at Home Depot or online for less.

There is no need to hack currently available OEM parts. But most customers that have NLA items are usually too cheap to even pay the repair bill which includes necessary mods.

I got one right now that bitches like crazy about how much I charging for fixing an UTV (side by side) that someone else did one heck of hack job on. He complained so much that I put in Bar's Leak to try to stop a water pump leak. He thinks I should fix just for the parts and charge no labor. I even tried to let his son fix the brakes but he refused to do it so I had to charge $190 to fix the rear brakes.

Maybe that because a company he works for don't collect sales tax on cash sales nor report the sales. They also not collecting and paying employment taxes on their employees. I hope everyday they get busted for this as I do collect and pay the taxes myself.

BTW it is called Procurement when you know what the manufacture direct part numbers are and buy from the distributor of that part. I don't see the need to pay JD prices on Kawasaki parts when I can get the same parts from my Kawasaki distributors. This what I do for my customers with several different OEMs. Another example is the Husqvarna made Snapper mowers where Briggs wants nearly double for the same parts. This is why my accounting has a lot crossed parts (alternates) on many part SKU numbers here. It is the same on the UTV I just repaired. The UTV distributor want more for the parts than my regular Kawasaki engine parts distributor.

Even when I mod the JD ZTR interlocks I leave them where they are easily restored to the original setup if ever needed.