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Help with short XT2 LX50
#1
N
nrbocke
N
nrbocke
Hello
I have a 2015 LX50 XT2 with a Kawasaki FR691V. Last night I went to mow, and the battery was dead (I think), so I put my charger on it. I was able to get the mower started and let it run for about 2 minutes. I noticed right before I was going to get on the headlights weren't on. Right before I got on the mower it died. I checked and the battery still had about 12.4v. But it smelled bad (like sulfur) and I read even with good voltage it was probably bad. I noticed the hour meter/batt voltage display wasn't coming on anymore. First thing this morning I went and got a new battery. Put it in, turned to accessory (first position of key switch), and the fuse blew. I did not try to turn it over. My guess is I damaged something over charging, but I really don't know. I'm guessing both problems didn't pop up at once? I did smell a burnt smell when the fuse blew from somewhere, I'm guessing it wasn't just from the fuse.
So far:
I had a friend walk me through some stuff with a light I had. Put it across the fuse holder and it only lights up with key switch is on. Then he had me hook it from the positive of the battery to each contact on the plug that the key switch plugs into. Verified the light lit in the proper positions but also, to what I show is the A1 red wire. Took off the hood and unplugged the headlights. I've looked over the wire I can see. most everything is black plastic wrap. I wasn't sure if it made sense to start pulling this off. On the right side of the power there's a Molex (I think that is the term) by the voltage regulator (flat silver box with 3 prongs). The red wire going out of this goes to the voltage regulator. There are green and black wires with heat shrink (I think) that go up into the motor. I can pull the red wire off the side of the voltage regulator and still have a short. But it I pull the Molex the light goes off. Does this prove my short went away or does the fact that there's green and black wire mean I removing something I need to troubleshoot. Assuming that isn't the case where else would everyone look? I have a wiring diagram (I think but it's for the Kohlar model, assume it's the same?), but I'm having a really hard time even seeing the wiring. I have tried wiggling stuff around (that I can get my hand on) and the light doesn't change.
Really appreciate any tips!
Thanks!
I have a 2015 LX50 XT2 with a Kawasaki FR691V. Last night I went to mow, and the battery was dead (I think), so I put my charger on it. I was able to get the mower started and let it run for about 2 minutes. I noticed right before I was going to get on the headlights weren't on. Right before I got on the mower it died. I checked and the battery still had about 12.4v. But it smelled bad (like sulfur) and I read even with good voltage it was probably bad. I noticed the hour meter/batt voltage display wasn't coming on anymore. First thing this morning I went and got a new battery. Put it in, turned to accessory (first position of key switch), and the fuse blew. I did not try to turn it over. My guess is I damaged something over charging, but I really don't know. I'm guessing both problems didn't pop up at once? I did smell a burnt smell when the fuse blew from somewhere, I'm guessing it wasn't just from the fuse.
So far:
I had a friend walk me through some stuff with a light I had. Put it across the fuse holder and it only lights up with key switch is on. Then he had me hook it from the positive of the battery to each contact on the plug that the key switch plugs into. Verified the light lit in the proper positions but also, to what I show is the A1 red wire. Took off the hood and unplugged the headlights. I've looked over the wire I can see. most everything is black plastic wrap. I wasn't sure if it made sense to start pulling this off. On the right side of the power there's a Molex (I think that is the term) by the voltage regulator (flat silver box with 3 prongs). The red wire going out of this goes to the voltage regulator. There are green and black wires with heat shrink (I think) that go up into the motor. I can pull the red wire off the side of the voltage regulator and still have a short. But it I pull the Molex the light goes off. Does this prove my short went away or does the fact that there's green and black wire mean I removing something I need to troubleshoot. Assuming that isn't the case where else would everyone look? I have a wiring diagram (I think but it's for the Kohlar model, assume it's the same?), but I'm having a really hard time even seeing the wiring. I have tried wiggling stuff around (that I can get my hand on) and the light doesn't change.
Really appreciate any tips!
Thanks!
#2
A
Auto Doc's
The tiny aluminum gadget with 3 wires connected is to voltage regulator. Unplug all of them and see if it still blows the fuse. If it does blow, you have likely got a problem with the electric PTO clutch or the wiring going to it.
At the moment all anyone can do is guess. We need the label data.
A
Auto Doc's
We really need the product label numbers off of the label on the bottom of the seat assemblyHello
I have a 2015 LX50 XT2 with a Kawasaki FR691V. Last night I went to mow, and the battery was dead (I think), so I put my charger on it. I was able to get the mower started and let it run for about 2 minutes. I noticed right before I was going to get on the headlights weren't on. Right before I got on the mower it died. I checked and the battery still had about 12.4v. But it smelled bad (like sulfur) and I read even with good voltage it was probably bad. I noticed the hour meter/batt voltage display wasn't coming on anymore. First thing this morning I went and got a new battery. Put it in, turned to accessory (first position of key switch), and the fuse blew. I did not try to turn it over. My guess is I damaged something over charging, but I really don't know. I'm guessing both problems didn't pop up at once? I did smell a burnt smell when the fuse blew from somewhere, I'm guessing it wasn't just from the fuse.
So far:
I had a friend walk me through some stuff with a light I had. Put it across the fuse holder and it only lights up with key switch is on. Then he had me hook it from the positive of the battery to each contact on the plug that the key switch plugs into. Verified the light lit in the proper positions but also, to what I show is the A1 red wire. Took off the hood and unplugged the headlights. I've looked over the wire I can see. most everything is black plastic wrap. I wasn't sure if it made sense to start pulling this off. On the right side of the power there's a Molex (I think that is the term) by the voltage regulator (flat silver box with 3 prongs). The red wire going out of this goes to the voltage regulator. There are green and black wires with heat shrink (I think) that go up into the motor. I can pull the red wire off the side of the voltage regulator and still have a short. But it I pull the Molex the light goes off. Does this prove my short went away or does the fact that there's green and black wire mean I removing something I need to troubleshoot. Assuming that isn't the case where else would everyone look? I have a wiring diagram (I think but it's for the Kohlar model, assume it's the same?), but I'm having a really hard time even seeing the wiring. I have tried wiggling stuff around (that I can get my hand on) and the light doesn't change.
Really appreciate any tips!
Thanks!
The tiny aluminum gadget with 3 wires connected is to voltage regulator. Unplug all of them and see if it still blows the fuse. If it does blow, you have likely got a problem with the electric PTO clutch or the wiring going to it.
At the moment all anyone can do is guess. We need the label data.
#3
N
nrbocke
Model Number DOM
13A1A1CQ010 3/2015 Let me know if you need the serial number
LX50
Last night I disconnected the red wire and the black connecter with 2 white wires from the voltage regulator and my light stayed on. I still have a black wire on the top that goes to the starter (I believe). Should I try re-disconnecting the voltage regulator and the black wire? Is the light a good test or will I actually need to use a fuse (I know I will need to for final test)? I have a pack of 5 fuses, but could get more if needed.
Thanks!
N
nrbocke
Sorry-Didn't realize there was a better model number under there.We really need the product label numbers off of the label on the bottom of the seat assembly
The tiny aluminum gadget with 3 wires connected is to voltage regulator. Unplug all of them and see if it still blows the fuse. If it does blow, you have likely got a problem with the electric PTO clutch or the wiring going to it.
At the moment all anyone can do is guess. We need the label data.
Model Number DOM
13A1A1CQ010 3/2015 Let me know if you need the serial number
LX50
Last night I disconnected the red wire and the black connecter with 2 white wires from the voltage regulator and my light stayed on. I still have a black wire on the top that goes to the starter (I believe). Should I try re-disconnecting the voltage regulator and the black wire? Is the light a good test or will I actually need to use a fuse (I know I will need to for final test)? I have a pack of 5 fuses, but could get more if needed.
Thanks!