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So I am pretty lost. I need to replace the crankshaft because its bent. I can not for the life of me find any supplier that has a motor matching the one on my Honda HRX mower. Here are all the SN/Model numbers I could find on my mower.

Mower:
Model: HRX2174VLA
Serial No: MAGA - 2284609

Engine:
Model: GCV190
Serial No: GJAAA 2861903
Additional Sticker on Engine: GCV190A MX5 R280

Extra bit of info I found while researching: I'm pretty sure this mower is also listed as HRX217K4 VLAA on some websites, but like I said I've had no luck matching my exact engine. I found two possible cranks for my engine but can't tell which one I actually need. I think its between these two part numbers 13310-Z8D-610 and 13311-Z8D-900.

Links from my research:

I'll also attach pics of the serial and model number stickers in case I am missing something.

Can anyone help me figure out what part no. crankshaft I need? Thanks!

I came up with the 13310-Z8D-610 crankshaft for your mower. the other part number you listed is for serial numbers higher than 278xxxx

ILENGINE said:

I came up with the 13310-Z8D-610 crankshaft for your mower. the other part number you listed is for serial numbers higher than 278xxxx

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Perfect, that's the one I'll get. Thanks for the help!

The_Implication: Do you gots da skills to do this crank shaft replacement ?

Chris Parman said:

The_Implication: Do you gots da skills to do this crank shaft replacement ?

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I like to think I do! I've done a fair bit of research and from all the videos I've watched I think I can pull it off. Hardest part looks like it'll be getting the flywheel off.

There's a good video series on youtube which appears a repair school filmed on the GCV engine, disassembly, reassy, etc.
https://www.youtube.com/motorcycle-powersports-GCV-engine-repair

Well, you might find out if the bottom pan will come off, before ordering parts.

Scrubcadet10 said:

There's a good video series on youtube which appears a repair school filmed on the GCV engine, disassembly, reassy, etc.
https://www.youtube.com/motorcycle-powersports-GCV-engine-repair

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I saw one of those but did't know there was a playlist, thanks for the link!

Fish said:

Well, you might find out if the bottom pan will come off, before ordering parts.

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Didn't know that could cause me trouble. The video I watched made that part look easy. Is that normally a difficult task?

This is the main video I've researched

i think Fish may have been referring to the bent shaft.....

Scrubcadet10 said:

i think Fish may have been referring to the bent shaft.....

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Ahh, well I hope it does because I already have a new crank on the way. Would some percussive persuasion help straighten it enough to slide it out if its not cooperating? (Hitting the bent crank to straighten it enough to slide out, not hammering it from the bottom up) Or would that be ill-advised?

The_Implication said:

I like to think I do! I've done a fair bit of research and from all the videos I've watched I think I can pull it off. Hardest part looks like it'll be getting the flywheel off.

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The Video link Scrubcadet10 provided is solid from a DIY perspective.

I would rather cut the shaft, you will be replacing the seal anyway.
It may come off just fine.
Take a lot of photos of the work, it may come in handy when re-assembling.

Fish said:

I would rather cut the shaft, you will be replacing the seal anyway.
It may come off just fine.
Take a lot of photos of the work, it may come in handy when re-assembling.

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I didn't think about possibly cutting the shaft. Hopefully it'll come off just fine. I wasn't planning on replacing the seal as long as I don't damage it during disassembly. Is is recommended I go ahead a replace it?

I have been taking lots of pics so far.

Yes, replace the seal.. Don't want to have to pull the engine a 2nd time to do it in possibly a few weeks days or weeks.

Scrubcadet10 said:

Yes, replace the seal.. Don't want to have to pull the engine a 2nd time to do it in possibly a few weeks days or weeks.

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I'll order the seal now then! Thanks for the advice.

Yeah, you are replacing the crank, if the pan won't come off easily, don't force it, or you will damage the "bearing", and need a new pan.
The seal should be replaced anyway.

Alright so some bad news, I was able to get the flywheel off today but it looks like the woodruff key half sheared and damaged the channel on the flywheel. So I'll need a new flywheel and woodruff key. I'm finding conflicting information again on which part number flywheel I need. Which part number matches my machine? 31105-Z0Y-N51 or 31105-Z0Y-922?

Looks like 31105-Z0Y-922 is listed in the diagram for the serial number range of your mower.

The_Implication said:

Alright so some bad news, I was able to get the flywheel off today but it looks like the woodruff key half sheared and damaged the channel on the flywheel. So I'll need a new flywheel and woodruff key. I'm finding conflicting information again on which part number flywheel I need. Which part number matches my machine? 31105-Z0Y-N51 or 31105-Z0Y-922?

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I would say the 31105-Z0Y-922 part number from Boats.net.

The_Implication said:

So I am pretty lost. I need to replace the crankshaft because its bent. I can not for the life of me find any supplier that has a motor matching the one on my Honda HRX mower. Here are all the SN/Model numbers I could find on my mower.

Mower:
Model: HRX2174VLA
Serial No: MAGA - 2284609

Engine:
Model: GCV190
Serial No: GJAAA 2861903
Additional Sticker on Engine: GCV190A MX5 R280

Extra bit of info I found while researching: I'm pretty sure this mower is also listed as HRX217K4 VLAA on some websites, but like I said I've had no luck matching my exact engine. I found two possible cranks for my engine but can't tell which one I actually need. I think its between these two part numbers 13310-Z8D-610 and 13311-Z8D-900.

Links from my research:

Honda Power Equipment HRX217K4 VLAA Crankshaft (1) | CyclePartsNation Honda Parts Nation

Shop online for OEM Crankshaft (1) parts that fit your Honda Power Equipment HRX217K4 VLAA, search all our OEM Parts or call at 269-385-1540

www.hondapartsnation.com

Honda Power Equipment HRX217K4 VLAA Crankshaft (2)

Shop online for OEM Crankshaft (2) parts that fit your Honda Power Equipment HRX217K4 VLAA, search all our OEM Parts or call at 269-385-1540

www.hondapartsnation.com

Honda Power Equipment - Parts Look Up - Official Site

The official parts look up site for Honda Power Equipment. Search for parts for your Honda generator, lawn mower, tiller, trimmer, pump, and snow blower.

peparts.honda.com

I'll also attach pics of the serial and model number stickers in case I am missing something.

Can anyone help me figure out what part no. crankshaft I need? Thanks!

View attachment 53488View attachment 53489View attachment 53490View attachment 53491View attachment 53492View attachment 53493

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Go to PartsTree.com they are great.

I want to give a final update. I was able to replace the crankshaft and flywheel successfully! She started back up on the third pull. Thanks to everyone who gave advice!

Thank you for reporting back. It helps those of us learning and pays back those who teach.

The_Implication said:

I want to give a final update. I was able to replace the crankshaft and flywheel successfully! She started back up on the third pull. Thanks to everyone who gave advice!

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We need proof, We need pictures of the tear-down and rebuild. We need a video of the GCV160 running afterwards !!!!!

I didn't stop to take a ton of pictures along the way (mostly since my gloves were covered in oil and carb cleaner) but here's some of the ones I did snap! You can see how bent the shaft is.

I did have two slight issues while taking everything apart. The first one was that one of the two bolts holding the muffler on snapped off right at the edge of its threaded hole. I could feel it twisting as I was loosening and and I knew I should have stopped when I felt that but I didn't. In hindsight I did not need to take the muffler off at all, I was just curious about the entire engine so I stripped it down as much as I could. The bolt is still snapped off in the case and so it a bolt remover that snapped while I was trying to extract it. I may have to drill it out and re-tap the hole. For now the one bolt is holding the muffler on fine.

The second issue I ran into was that the previous owner put the blade mount back on the bent crankshaft incorrectly. The woodruff key was jammed in the channel running up the crankshaft (which is for the belt guide for the self propel action) and not in its correct concave slot on the shaft. I fought to get it off with a gear puller but eventually got it off. When I went to put the blade mount back on the new crankshaft I put the woodruff key in the same (incorrect) slot. It was only after about 5 minutes of hammering that thing as hard as I could when I looked over at the bent crankshaft on the ground and saw the concave slot specifically for the woodruff key. I cursed myself and got the gear puller back out and eventually put that stupid woodruff key in the right spot and the mount slid on the shaft all the way up in to place with ease.

So hopefully there is someone who can use my lessons learned to make their repair easier.

Like my engine stand? ? That was before I built a small 2x4 stand. I was so eager to get the motor apart once it was in my garage.

I know I missed it.
But how did you bend the crankshaft?
There are videos on how to straighten the blade end without replacing the crank itself.
I am glad you went the correct way.
Peace of mind is a good thing.

Richie: Bent PTO repairs the likes of you are describing are rarely successful for the long term because if the PTO is off by the slightest that will put too much load on the Aluminum oil sump shaft area. The only reliable option is to replace the Crank Shaft.

The_Implication: Looks like the previous owner tried to grind down Tree Stumps what that Honda Mower

Chris agree with you.
Yes you could use a dial indicator on the shaft to be really close to OEM but who does that.
Grinding tree stumps with a lawn mower is never a good thing. Lol.

make sure your serial numbers are within range.

Richie F said:

Chris agree with you.
Yes you could use a dial indicator on the shaft to be really close to OEM but who does that.
Grinding tree stumps with a lawn mower is never a good thing. Lol.

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Somewhat reliable Shaft straightening devices cost (probably) $150 or higher. The cost of a replacement Crank Shaft (depending on the GCV engine) ranges from $25 to $60 (give or take a few cents). I will always oped for the Crank Shaft replacement.

Great job, implication!
I'd still like to introduce Mr. Fist to the face of the engineer who designed that engine..... One piece cylinder head my butt.

Scrubcadet10 said:

I'd still like to introduce Mr. Fist to the face of the engineer who designed that engine..... One piece cylinder head my butt.

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I have first hand experience with this, please don't blame the engineer. He/she knows it was a crap design. The Product Line Director tells Engineering what to do, i.e. controls the production cost target.

I really don't understand what is all the fuss about design comments? The GCV series engine is very reliable for what it is designed for (Domestic use). Even if a person has moderate skills, maintenance can be performed easily and major repairs can be tackled. The GCV series wasn't designed for some idiot to treat it like shit and not follow guidelines outlined in the Honda Lawn mowers User's Manual. If the GCV engine and Honda Mower (as a whole) is treated like shit then that's on the Idiot Owner !

Richie F said:

I know I missed it.
But how did you bend the crankshaft?
There are videos on how to straighten the blade end without replacing the crank itself.
I am glad you went the correct way.
Peace of mind is a good thing.

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I bought it knowing the crank was bent. The guy who sold it to me said he didn't know how his brother in law bent the shaft. If I were to guess he must have his a big stump or a giant rock. There was no sign of damage on the blades because I'm assuming he replaced them to see if it was just the bent/broken blades vibrating the thing. That obviously wasn't the case ?